Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: How to work with tree rot

  1. #1

    How to work with tree rot

    Hi, I'm turning a burl that has some very rotten spots, really soft wood that compresses and rips out easily. Any suggestions for how to deal with this or some type of resin or fill that works well?

    Dawson

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Posts
    11,833
    You could: stabilize it; soak with CA; soak with MinWax Wood Hardener or burn.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  3. #3
    I'm going to try to avoid the burn option. Surely I can salvage something interesting out of it by using the proper technique!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    4,005
    +1 for soak it with CA. I tried the minwax stuff on a piece once. It hardened it but not as hard as CA
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    North West Indiana
    Posts
    6,098
    Generally I use the "thin" CA, it really soaks in. You will find that you will be able to turn past the CA glue. That is what is great about the CA and its activator. You can pour it on, spray it with activator and get right back at it! With pens, the only thing I notice, I prefer to use CA then as a finish as it stains/highlights/seals the wood. Since it was needed, I feel the whole thing gets a CA finish, but that is a pen. Your bowl, still might need it to keep it looking "even".
    Jon

    God and family, the rest is icing on the cake. I'm so far behind, I think I'm in first place!

    Host of the 2015 FAMILY WOODWORKING GATHERING

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
    Posts
    30,017
    For a bowl, you might be looking at a lot of CA. I've used the Minwax wood hardener with mixed results, although the wood that didn't work out with it may have been too far gone for anything to save it.

    There is probably a way you could stabilize the wood with plastic resin or melted Plexiglas in a pressure pot, but I'll let some of the guys who've done it chime in on how it would be done on a partially-turned bowl.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Palm Springs, Ca
    Posts
    1,169
    I used the wife's Pledge Future Shine on some punky areas one day for the heck of it and it worked well......soaked in and hardened up and was able to cut fairly well ..........however, I use CA most all the time but still have some out in the shop and depending on the wood I would use it again......
    I have also used 50/50 laquer and laquer thinner also............
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Posts
    11,833
    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    For a bowl, you might be looking at a lot of CA. I've used the Minwax wood hardener with mixed results, although the wood that didn't work out with it may have been too far gone for anything to save it.

    There is probably a way you could stabilize the wood with plastic resin or melted Plexiglas in a pressure pot, but I'll let some of the guys who've done it chime in on how it would be done on a partially-turned bowl.
    If it will fit in a pressure pot, it will stabilize (sorta) OK. The stable solution will penetrate the soft areas but may not go all the way through on a larger piece. This would give a finished product with two different wood characteristics. I know, the turned piece could be re-stabilized to get all the way through. Two problems with this method. #1 a burl will discolor the stable solution and that is expensive stuff. #2 it will use up a lot of the stable solution, expensive stuff. Please note, I did not volunteer to do the job free for you as I have with some other small projects for guys here. Reason is, I don't want three gallons of stable solution (did I mention it is expensive stuff?) ruined.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

Similar Threads

  1. Tree within a tree...
    By Art Mulder in forum Off Topic Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 01-07-2015, 01:22 AM
  2. Tree Work is DONE for this year:)
    By larry merlau in forum Off Topic Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-12-2011, 07:34 PM
  3. from the same tree
    By Stephen Bellinger in forum Lathe Project Showcase
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 08-28-2011, 11:37 AM
  4. Tree box
    By michael james in forum Flatwork Project Showcase
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-11-2011, 02:50 AM
  5. Tree ID?
    By Kirk Constable in forum General Woodworking Q&A
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-18-2008, 09:49 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •