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Thread: cabinet inset door question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Vancouver Island, Courtenay/Comox Valley, British Columbia

    cabinet inset door question

    I read here:

    that inset doors are supposed to have a full perimeter rabbet (to stop the door I assume).

    1. Is that true? Is that how everyone makes them?

    2. Wouldn't a full perimeter rabbet get in the way of any kind of inside hinge?

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Inset doors will need a stop, but there are other methods other the one described. A lot of people position the face frame in such a manner that the bottom of the cabinet becomes a stop. I am not sure if he is suggesting a rabbet in both the face frame and door.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
    Quote Originally Posted by Cynthia White View Post
    ...Wouldn't a full perimeter rabbet get in the way of any kind of inside hinge?

    They make cabinet hinges that are bent to conform with the perimeter rabbet. Thay're actually quite common - even HD and Lowes carry them.

    However, a full inset door doesn't have a rabbet. It uses - or at least can use - a regular leaf hinge, with one leaf screwed to the edge og the door and the other leaf screwed to the inside edge of the face frame.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  4. #4
    On my kitchen cabinets the inset doors use the touch latches as the stop and the drawers use the grawer guides as a stop. As far as a reveal whatever the reveal was for the non mortise hinge was is what I used around the perimeter of the door.

  5. #5
    historically, no. I always us a stop.... Don't really see a easier or better way

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Dennison, MN
    I use a stop. Just a piece with a rabbet cut in it and placed at the top. The rabbet is to allow for a bumper. I usually make it so it fills the entire opening, it just looks funny to me if it is just a small chunk hanging there.You can do this with shelves as well.

    I've kicked around holding the top, and bottom decks into the opening, but that means you have to do something with the raw edges of the box material, which would come with a huge cost of time. You also loose the ability to add a bumper as this will kick the door out past the face of the frame. The fact that the door will close with a big clunk could be negated by using a soft close hinge though. Another thought is that I'm not sure how you'd be able to recess the doors, (like if you want the face of the door in a 1/4" from the plane of the face frame), this way either. A natural finish would be easy, but a stained one could be a nightmare as well.
    "Do, or do not. There is no try."

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