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Thread: Will this work?

  1. #1
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    Will this work?

    Hello everybody. I've got a question for ya, as usual. Can I buff on a coat of wax over poly? I'm havin a heck of a time gettin the poly to come out like I want it and thought this might work. What do ya'll think? Thanks in advance.
    "I Believe...Sometimes ya gotta wreck the truck in order to make the payment! " Larry the cable guy.

  2. #2
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    Yup, sure can.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  3. #3
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    Thanks Don.
    "I Believe...Sometimes ya gotta wreck the truck in order to make the payment! " Larry the cable guy.

  4. #4
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    Kenny, you can put wax on poly, but good wax won't fix bad poly. Wax will protect a good finish, but not do much to improve a bad one. You mention that the poly isn't coming out the way you want. What are you seeing (or not seeing) that you want to fix?
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  5. #5
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    Hey Vaughn. Well really the problem is dust. the finish looks good exept a few dust particles. I have to keep using 00 steel wool just to knock down the little bumps then add another coat of poly. I'm at three coats now and I'm afraid if i keep goin the finish will end up lookin plastic. Do you think the wax will cover the light marks from the steel wool?
    "I Believe...Sometimes ya gotta wreck the truck in order to make the payment! " Larry the cable guy.

  6. #6
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    Kenney,
    Is the poly an oil based or watyer based. I don't use steel wool on anything water based, as a matter of fact I don't use steel wool at all anymore. If it's water based the particles left from the steel wool will blacken the finish. Get some of the 3-M grey sanding sponges from you local hardware store, they work much better and they are re-usable
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  7. #7
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    It's oil based. after I use the steel wool I've been wiping the top down with a tack cloth. the sanding sponge sounds interesting though. Are the sponges classified by grit or what?
    "I Believe...Sometimes ya gotta wreck the truck in order to make the payment! " Larry the cable guy.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny Wright View Post
    It's oil based. after I use the steel wool I've been wiping the top down with a tack cloth. the sanding sponge sounds interesting though. Are the sponges classified by grit or what?
    Yup, they come in medium, fine, super fine and ultra fine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1.jpg  
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  9. #9
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    Thanks Don I will check them out. Do you think the wax will cover the light marks from the steel wool?
    "I Believe...Sometimes ya gotta wreck the truck in order to make the payment! " Larry the cable guy.

  10. #10
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    Kenny, I'm not sure about sanding sponges Don was mentioning, but there are "non-woven abrasive pads" (like a Scotch-Brite) available in various "grits". The green ones like those used for scrubbing post are fairly coarse. There's a green one, a maroon one that's a bit finer, gray that's finer still, and the white ones are the finest...about the same as 0000 steel wool. I use the white ones to remove the dust nibs from my turned pieces, but then I buff with various compounds to remove the fine scratches before I apply the wax. If I don't, the wax will hide the scratches for a short time, but eventually they'll reappear.

    Here is one source for the abrasive pads:

    http://www.ptreeusa.com/nonwoven.htm

    If you're trying for a high gloss finish, I'd suggest knocking off the dust nibs with a gray or white pad, then using automotive rubbing compound, then polishing compound, then wax. It'll shine like a new car.

    That's what I used on this pool cue case:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

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