Menu
What's new

Mystery Plane from the Cobwebs

Have to admit, I never had a shop teacher tell me how to place my plane and I feel relatively save from the random plane placed on it's side jumping up to slice my finger off that I generally lay mine on the side to protect the blade from random 'stuff'....
 
Cynthia White said:
I'm really sorry--I never thought it would create such a controversy standing it up for the photos. I'll be more careful. I read up on how to bring it back to life, took it apart, and now all the rusty parts are taking a beauty bath. :)
Thanks for all the help. My first plane. :D
Click to expand...

You didn't start anything that hasn't been discussed repeatedly from time to time. There two schools of thought in this area. One is right and one is mistaken, do I have to tell you which school I belong to... Right, as usual... :thumb:

Great, on the cleaning it up. A well directed project that will provide endless hours of WWing pleasure.
 
I spent some time today sharpening and trying out some planes. I have to say it is very satisfying to hear a little 'snick,snick,snick' as you use a hand plane.

Now I just have to find a real reason to use one since they are so sharp. I've got no hairs left on my left forearm to test the sharpness on. Pretty soon my beard will have to go and then all hopes of ever looking like Larry will be gone...
 
Jim DeLaney said:
Well, I gotta admit that my first comment would hafta be a "B" followed by some hieroglyphics, so I guess I'll just refrain. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl::D
Click to expand...

If you think this is such Bull, drive about an hour or so over to the Amish country (You are in Youngstown OH, not far away) and ask them how they rest their planes... They are "Old School"... :wave:

Centuries of WWers have rested planes on their side and suddenly you figured out the "Right Way"... Go figure...:huh: and a Buckeye at that..:eek:

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

A friendly argument, intended... hope the same with you.
 
Last edited:
Bill Simpson said:
...A friendly argument, intended... hope the same with you.
Click to expand...

Most assuredly! :D:D

Should've taken a picture, but I recall - and commented on to its user - seeing a nice old woodie standing upright on a bench at Williamsburgh.

BTW, some of my nastiest planes - in need of the most work to reclaim/restore - came out of Amish country.

I go to Middlefield, Berlin, Kidron, Charm, or Walnut Creek quite often. All are Amish communities here in Ohio. Also Volant in PA, and at least once or twice a year to Lancaster area, so I'm fairly well versed on the Amish. Been in, or around, a lot of Amish woodshops, and it's becomeing a bit depressing to see them pretty rapidly converting to nearly full powered shops.
 
Its also a little contradictory hey Jim. Then trying to stay off the grid and all and not use modern conveniences.;) Bill being contrary i think i put my planes down face down because i can and i dont have that woodshop teacher glearing over my back anymore. :rofl: At the end of the day its me who has to sharpen it.:rofl: And i do more damage with improper use than improper storage. :eek::huh: So that woodshop teacher might have achieved more if there was less focus on getting me to put it down right and more on how i use it correctly.:rofl::rofl:
 
Personally, I believe the damage differintial is minimal but there is an advantage to laying the plane on its side. And yes, improper usage is in fact a contributing factor. (Which does include improper storage) But... Once you accustom yourself to the simple "Laying of the plane" it almost become automatic. I don't even think of it anymore, it just happens. (but I do notice when I see one face down)

Jim, to notice a placement in some museum display places a lot of reliability on a caretaker of artifacts rather than a user of the tool.

Amish who use power tools are not true to the cause...Mennonites do use electricity for their work, but not personal pleasure.

AH...:p The debate continues.

To say that placement on the face or side makes little difference is an exceptible response and can't truely be argued to great extent, but to state a safety of passer-by due to blade exposure if groping for a reason. (how many thousands of an inch of blade is exposed?) One can expect finger slicing from sharpening not from passing by.

The argument for side laying is based on taking the advantage of avoiding the possibility of blade damage is less important than the belief that my old teachers and mentors would come back to rap my knuckles with a bench rule if caught violating the Cardinal rule of plane care. :eek:
 
Bill Simpson said:
...to notice a placement in some museum display places a lot of reliability on a caretaker of artifacts rather than a user of the tool.....
Click to expand...

It wasn't a museum. It was on an active bench at the cabinetmaker's shop in Williamsburg.

Bill Simpson said:
...Amish who use power tools are not true to the cause...Mennonites do use electricity for their work, but not personal pleasure.....
Click to expand...

The Amish are quite masterful at adapting modern "conveniences' while (in their opinions) remaining true to their beliefs. They use diesel driven generators and hydraulic pumps to power their equipment, to avoid being hooked to the outside world. They'll also have a telephone in their shop (needed for doing business) but won't have one in their house, or allow anyone in the house to use the one in the shop.


Bill Simpson said:
... to state a safety of passer-by due to blade exposure if groping for a reason....
Click to expand...

I didn't say that! I was more concerned about cutting MYSELF :D than somebody else. Besides, I don't have 'passer-bys' in my shop. Do you?
 
If I can interrupt here for a second, when I get the rust off do I have to coat every exposed surface including the threads of the screws (that had previously had rust) to keep the rust away? Isn't that going to make a sticky mess? :dunno::type:

Also, if I want to sand away some of the rust, what grit paper should I use?
 
Cynthia White said:
If I can interrupt here for a second, when I get the rust off do I have to coat every exposed surface including the threads of the screws (that had previously had rust) to keep the rust away? Isn't that going to make a sticky mess? :dunno::type:

Also, if I want to sand away some of the rust, what grit paper should I use?
Click to expand...

You'll need to coat everything, but wax is your friend, here.

Don't sand! Chemistry is also your friend. Get a gallon of Evap-o-Rust from Harbor Freight, and soak the plane overnight. Easiest way with a plane body is to disassemble, and put into a 2 foot section (2½ feet if it's a #8) of 4" plastic pipe with a glued on end cap. Fill the pipe with the Evap-o-Rust and wait.

When you remove the plane, most of the rust will almost magically be gone. Rinse well and clean any remaining deposits with a green or maroon Scotchbrite pad. Oil/wax, and you're done, unless you really wanna get carried away with japanning, etc.
 
Cynthia White said:
If I can interrupt here for a second, when I get the rust off do I have to coat every exposed surface including the threads of the screws (that had previously had rust) to keep the rust away? Isn't that going to make a sticky mess? :dunno::type:

Also, if I want to sand away some of the rust, what grit paper should I use?
Click to expand...

What? you want to get back to the Primus Subject? Sure, Interrupt if you must.... :rofl:

For the base and sides I use that old Scarry sharp method using wet paper and Kerosene as a lube. This will bring down to a flat surface. Then some Johnson's Paste wax to preserve the finish. As for the rest. I usually use a light oil to maintain a smooth operation.

I'm sure Jim has a better idea. :thumb:

Make sure the cap iron is clean as well and has a straight/smooth edge. Then the Iron itself get a good hollow grind and honed a secondary bevel. Some flatten and polish to a mirror finish, great for looking at yourself but not necessary. Flatten, yess but mirror... (?)
 
Jim DeLaney said:
Get a gallon of Evap-o-Rust from Harbor Freight, .
Click to expand...

This is the first I have heard of this product. What is it? I have used Washing soda and eletrolisis to electrically remove rust but this sounds simplier, is it an acid, Is it reuseable? I have a host of pals in old car restoration area and I'm sure they will also be interested. Tell me more. Do you soak the parts on end or the side? :D Just when I was thining I knew it all, then you have to throw in a curve... Oh well, If you ain't learnin' you're backin' up... What department of Harbor Freight is it located?
 
Last edited:
Cynthia you can get Evapo Rust in Canada at Canadian Tire but they charge more than this guy who manufactures it here.
http://www.evapo-rust.ca/

This is a fantastic product and very safe to use. No chargers needed and it really works well. Follow Jims advice on the "sink" to use to minimize the amount required and when you finished with it let it settle and rebottle and store for next use.

The real cool thing about it is it leaves a protection layer behind and its safe for your hands.

Oh Lee Valley sells it too but then you paying a premium.
 
Didn't know it was such a cool product. I bought a big jug at harbor freight last time I was there, just because I wanted to be just like Vaughn... :rofl:

I do have a bit old tow chain I left out on the rain that I keep in my truck. Might have to give it a shot on that and see how it works...
 
Brent Dowell said:
...I do have a bit old tow chain I left out on the rain that I keep in my truck. Might have to give it a shot on that and see how it works...
Click to expand...

It'll work great. I had a tub of Evapo-Rust going in the driveway after cleaning up the effects of my shop's acid trip, and also had a big rusty tow chain sitting out there taunting me. The chain was big enough that I didn't get it completely submerged, so after a day of soaking, I tried to move things around to get the previously untreated parts submerged. When that didn't work, I decided to add a bit of water to the solution to raise the liquid level, figuring that after a few days in the sun my tub had lost some liquid to evaporation. Turns out the diluted solution removed the rust to some extent, but the areas that were soaked in the full-strength solution are still cleaner.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top