Drilling a lamp

Dennis Kranz

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I want to try and make a lamp but don't have any idea where to get a drill bit that would be long enough to drill out the center. Is there a special trick or drill bit that I need to use. I would think a regular drill bit would wander all over the place. I want to make the lamp at least 12 inchs tall and that is just the wood. Any one made one or have any idea where to get what I need.
Dennis
 
Dennis, I know some folks use a 'gun drill' for that type of long hole. I have no personal experience to offer on using one or where to buy it, but I figured knowing the name might give you a starting point. ;)
 
I think you will drill from both ends, and yes there is a special bit for doing this, as it is long and has to easily clear the chips.

I think you also need a special hollow live center for this too.

I remember an article in the AAW magazine about it last year.... :huh:

Time to fire up google :D
 
Our local lumber yard had a bit when I needed one for students that were turning lamps. It needed cleaned frequently. We turned, sanded and then finished the lamp on the lathe, then we would clamp it in the vise and stand over it on a chair and using a hand held drill, drill through. We took the measurement of the rod that goes through and then got the bit.
 
Dennis, when i built my shop i needed a long bit when doing the electric wiring. I found them in two forms at Home Depot.

1) An extension for a spade bit. But in this case the diameter of your hole would be large as the joint is pretty thick.

2)A long drill used by electricians to drill between the floors through the wall plates and the joists. Take a look at the tool section at HD but also in the electrical section i think its marketed by Greenlee if my memory serves me correct.

But you will need to think about a drill press that is a floor model as opposed to a bench top. I doubt a 12 inch lamp plus 12 inch drill would make it under my bench top drill press. Alternative if you gonna turn the lamp you might manage it in a chuck mounted in your tailstock.

Best of luck dont forget to show us your project as you progress.:thumb:
 
I had a very long drill bit made years ago to drill ramrod holes for muzzle loading rifles. It is a standard 3/8" twist bit. And, yes, it does wander. I made a lamp recently and drilled before turning, thus eliminating problems from the wander. A good machinist/welder can make up a bit like this for you at not much cost. I have several extra long bits and augers and pull one or more out for use about once a year. Nice to have when that unusual need comes up. BTW, back out frequently to clear chips since there are only a couple inches of flutes at the front to do that job.
 
I've made a couple of lamps with one of these,

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s...e_Accessories___Lamp_Auger___lamp_auger?Args=

from craft supplies. You also have to have a hollow tailstock or headstock and a hollow dead center for the tailstock or a hole through the headstock and whatever you are using to drive the wood. Mine was only 5/16 and considerably cheaper at the time.

A gun drill is supposed to be better. Also, I have bought 12" bits from the local ace hardware if that is long enough.
 
Home Depot, Lowe's and the like sell 12" and 18" Auger bits that should work for that. It is best to drill from each end so any deviation is minimal...kinda like doing a pepper mill.
 
You could cut the blank in half, route a groove down the center of each half and glue it back together.

Exactly what i was going to say Paul, Route or just use a dado blade or multiple passes with a table saw. Then after the glue up throw it on the lathe and turn it to the shape you want. That way you get a true center all the way through without messing around with long drill bits.
 
I have not tried to make a lamp so im just talking without any real experience at this. I would think that you would bore the hole down to close to the base but not thru it. Then drill a hole lateral and have the cord come out on the side so the bottom sits flat on a table. So why drill all the way thru? or am I misunderstanding ?
You may very well get travel with the bit depending on how deep your going but with a lateral hole and cord comming out that way I wouldn't think it would matter all that much.............
 
I have a 18" 3/8 drill bit in my tool drawer, used just for lamps and such. Ordered mine from Broadhead Garrett but HD may have it. I have learned from experience that it will drift with the grain. I have corrected this by drilling with a regular length 3/8 drill to it's max depth from both ends. With turned projects I do it on the lathe. Then, using the starter holes as a guide, there is a better chance that additional depth drilled from both ends will meet in the middle (or close enough for woodbutcher work) :thumb:

I tried, one time, to knock the center out of the tailstock and feed the long drill through the tail but had no advantage over free hand after predrilling on a drillpress with standard drill.

If I am laminating stock for the lamp (or other project) I saw a kerf down both pieces, align them and use the cut as the center reference, then when I drill the hole, the bit follows the path of least resistance and cuts true w/o the drift.

I have also used a 3/8 core bit on the router table and cut a half round groove along the length of the stock (each piece) before laminating, then using a dowel to plug the end so the spur center can find a good seat, turn the project and the hole is already there.
 
Exactly what i was going to say Paul, Route or just use a dado blade or multiple passes with a table saw. Then after the glue up throw it on the lathe and turn it to the shape you want. That way you get a true center all the way through without messing around with long drill bits.

Yes, but that is considered cheating and you might get a yellow card. :rolleyes:
 
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