TS adjustments

Jim O'Dell

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Between Aledo and Fort Worth, TX
Ok, I finally got some time to play with the new Align it jig I purchased on the new cabinet saw. I thought I had the blade close to parallel to the miter slot, but it wasn't. No problem, loosen 3 of the 4 bolts. Closest I could get was (est) 0.0042. Most of the time, more like 0.005. So I loosen the 4th bolt. No help. It seems like the direction I need to go, it doesn't have any more adjustment. Has anyone had to ream out the holes in the cabinet before to get it closer? Or am I trying to get too close to perfect? I thought I'd be fine at 0.001 to 0.002, but I just can't get there. I'd prefer not to take the top off, but will if that is what is needed to get this right. I've been going off the right miter slot. I doubt I'll ever use that. Might try the left one just to see if there is any difference. I'm using a Forrest blade that has ripped through about 9 linear feet of 2X material. I am marking one tooth and measuring front to back off the same spot. Measuring before on the trunnion showed negligible movement, so I don't think that is the problem. TIA for any help you can offer. Jim.
 
Yeah, I know. But the closest I can get is 4-5 thou. Like I said in the OP, am I trying to get too close to perfect? Guess I have a machinist's personality. (but without the skill:rofl::rofl::rofl:) It's just something that is bugging me. If it was that I couldn't hit the sweet spot, kept going to one side or the other, I'd just get mad at myself, and try another day. But I just can't get it to go any further. We'll see. It may not be worth the hassle. I really don't want to take the top off. Jim.
 
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The number you are shooting for is a matter of your own preference/tolerance/comfort. Sounds like you've reached the max you can go on at least one of the holes. Larger holes are not necessarily the answer. Shift the whole top over and come back to get aligned.

Once you get in the neighborhood of .001" at 90*, tilt the blade and see where you are when bevel cutting. I find it much easier to adjust for both 90* and 45* as I go rather than get 90* where I want it and then fight to get 45* to come in line.

My C-man hybrid is 'about' .001" at 90* and 45*. I have some deviation at the extreme end of the miter slot which I am not going to try to fix. I also have the often reported ripples in my Biesemeyer fence faces (I am going to replace these with adjustable ones the next time they tick me off) :).

While I am doing setup I will also shift the top to the right (for a left tilt) as much as I am comfortable with to allow easier access to the arbor nut. Don't go too far or you won't have much insert left on that side. The leveling tabs are a good indicator of where to stop.

I prefer to do alignment with the wings and fence off. It is much easier to adjust; especially when you get 90* where you want it and then find 45* to be unacceptable and you have to shim. Once the wings and fence are added I generally experience a small shift but this is so slight that it is easily fixed.

Its the larger adjustments to get you in the ball park so that you can fine tune things that are tough with all the iron bolted on. Put out a little extra effort now as all your jigs, sleds, ZCIs and so forth will use this miter slot to blade relationship and you don't want to re-make them later. JMHO.
 
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I would be happy at 1 thou. I've loosened all 4 bolts, no help. I even took one out, still no change. The only thing I can think to do would be to enlarge all 4 holes, add a thick washer and try again. I'm going to play with it some more before I do that though. Plus, I'm not sure I have a larger drill bit than the hole already is. Guess I could go get a cheap step drill. We'll see. Jim.
 
Not bad, but it does pull away from the back of the fence quite a bit more than I would like. I cutting the MDF for the extension table, the only time I had any burning was when I stopped the wood the get a better grip on it, so that was normal. Haven't cut any hardwood though. I do have a new combo blade coming for it. And some QS White Oak I will be cutting. But I have the fence off already moving it to the right while I secure the newly built extension table. I figure this would be the time to get it right. Jim.
 
I would be happy at 1 thou. I've loosened all 4 bolts, no help. I even took one out, still no change. The only thing I can think to do would be to enlarge all 4 holes, add a thick washer and try again. I'm going to play with it some more before I do that though. Plus, I'm not sure I have a larger drill bit than the hole already is. Guess I could go get a cheap step drill. We'll see. Jim.

Watch the thickness of those washers! The thickness of the shims (washers) at the corners of the table will affect the alignment at 45° a lot, and will also have an effect on the squareness of blade to table adjustments.

If you're removing the top, make sure you put the factory shims back on the same corner you get them from. DAMHIKT...
 
Jim, the washer placement I'm talking about is under the hex socket bolt to give it a wider coverage over the then larger hole, not between the cabinet and the top. I'm well versed on the factory shims from reading here and other wood forums. That is partly why I really don't want to take the top off. ;) Jim.
 
Jim,
Your not happy with 1/2 thou....:huh:
Your gonna get more movement then that in the wood.

True, but he's not talking about cutting wood to a thousandth. He's talking about having his saw aligned. Whole different issue that has nothing to do with wood movement. (Unless he's got a wooden table on the saw.) :p
 
True, but he's not talking about cutting wood to a thousandth. He's talking about having his saw aligned. Whole different issue that has nothing to do with wood movement. (Unless he's got a wooden table on the saw.) :p

So true, BUT, 0.005 (BTW that is Not a half a thou, it is 5 thou) is about the thickness of a human's hair.
 
Jim, the washer placement I'm talking about is under the hex socket bolt to give it a wider coverage over the then larger hole, not between the cabinet and the top. I'm well versed on the factory shims from reading here and other wood forums. That is partly why I really don't want to take the top off. ;) Jim.

Just wanted to be sure you were aware. No need in someone else making that mistake, too.
 
Jim,

You aren't being too particular. 5 thou is enough out of alignment for the side of a tooth to catch hold of the wood and send it on the road to kickback. Or, even more likely, is burning of the wood.

I once thought i ran out of travel but what was actually happening is i had one of the other three screws likely were pulled too far one way or the other. I don't think you should have to ream out these holes as I'm SURE there is plenty of travel for getting things aligned - they don't build 'em that close on purpose.

With my contractor saw, what happened was that I had to slide everything over one way before i could get the extra travel needed to get parallel. I was up against two bolts in that case, making it very tough to twist anything - so check both left-to-right movement as well as front-to-back movement to ensure you have clearance all around.

Yes 5 thou seems like very little, but it's enough to chase down if you want to count on your saw cutting well.
 
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