Renaissance wax question

Dan Mosley

Member
Messages
1,169
Location
Palm Springs, Ca
I have been using Renaissance wax on alot of the turnings and I read a article on AAW where someone stated the best way to use it is to put it on by hand scrubbing it in with a rag or paper towel............let it sit for a hr and then buff it off with a cotton wheel at low speed.......the person said that it would produce the best shine that way...........anybody else using it this way ?
Low speed ?............like what?.......800 or lower ?
I pm the person and never did get a answer but thought I would post on here and see how others are using it...................
I have been using it on some of the projects that i finished with laquer............let dry for a week or better......knocked down with 0000 then applied it by hand and removed it by hand both............would there really be that big of a difference..............
 
After a piece has been buffed with the other compounds, I apply a thin coat of Renaissance wax by hand (I use a little 2" or so square of t-shirt material), let that dry for a while (5 to 30 minutes, give or take), then buff with a clean flannel (cotton) wheel spinning between about 800 and 1200 rpm. I use a light touch and relatively low speed to avoid melting (and removing) the wax.
 
I started using it because I didn't like finger prints or water spots on my pieces. I apply it by hand with a soft paper towel or T-shirt. I leave it for 2 to 5 minutes then buff. They say it dries instantly.
 
After buffing with appropriate compounds I apply ren/wax by hand real skin then buff it off with a light touch to the cotton wheel.
 
Well thanks for the responses.......I have been doing it either by hand or on a buffer i have with a speed or 1250.....very light touch is right.......have also buffed by hand...........just depends i guess.....but thanks for the responses
 
I remember when Eli Avisera was here doing a Demo he said that anything you put on a piece on the lathe should be applied with the lathe turned off, his main reason for this was the the spinning piece would fling the finish out from the piece. I guess this would only apply to the outside of a bowl :D

The other reason he said was safety, which in my opinion is even more important, spinning wood, finish and fingers combined could result in a trip to the hospital :doh:

BTW, I've been told that the clear shoe polish, the Kiwi stuff, is basically the same as the Renaissance wax:dunno:

I know it sure smells the same, and it costs a TON less, and if it works for shoes :thumb: FYI :wave:
 
BTW, I've been told that the clear shoe polish, the Kiwi stuff, is basically the same as the Renaissance wax:dunno:

I was going to say that the Ren Wax does have a distinctive odor. Never smelled the clear Kiwi wax, but I doubt it has the same insert describing all of the various benefits and applications! :thumb:

Just bought a can of the Ren wax a little while ago. Guess next time I stop by Wally World I'll have to take a look for some kiwi!
 
I remember when Eli Avisera was here doing a Demo he said that anything you put on a piece on the lathe should be applied with the lathe turned off, his main reason for this was the the spinning piece would fling the finish out from the piece. I guess this would only apply to the outside of a bowl :D

The other reason he said was safety, which in my opinion is even more important, spinning wood, finish and fingers combined could result in a trip to the hospital :doh:...

I do nearly all my finishing off the lathe, but I'm guessing Eli doesn't use a lot of friction polish like Myland's. ;) Although I wouldn'[t use it on a bowl of other large piece, it's handy stuff for smaller things that don't need a super durable finish.
 
Years ago, I used to use both Ren wax and Mylands on pens...then I was schooled by finishes that wore off. On boxes they both work well. I adopted an approach that Richard Raffin did on a video. He wiped a piece of 0000 steel wool in renwax and applied it at about 800 rpm. It looks really cool!
 
I have put Behlan's Laquer on cut 50/50 with laquer thinner on finials and small vessels while on the lathe. I do not use very high speed to do it and I have had no problems. The laquer dries quickly and i can steel wool and keep applying very quickly - once built up to satisfaction I part and apply the same to the bottom - knocking down every other coat or so.....it just depends.......then hang them and spray......its either done at this point or I let sit for a week and buff.....again it depends...........
Its only one way I finish things but at low speeds on the lathe I have no issues with finish flying...................
 
Last edited:
Top