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Edge joining on a table saw

Don Baer

Don Baer

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A few weeks ago I did an evaluation of a thin kerf glue ready rip blade by Freud in this thread.
Well that well and good if you are starting out with board that are straight to begin with but if you get a crocked one you have to go to the joiner and then what good is the blade. What I do and it works well is take a piece of 1 inch square alum tubing and place it on the bowed edge.
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I attach it with screws and then shim between the aluminum tubing and the wood.http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47112&stc=1&d=1279066992,
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I have a good edge to reference from and can get quality glue line edges.
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I bought two 8 foot pieces cut one a 3 ft and this give me three different sizes. This is a real time saver and also if your working alone on some real long boards it is a lot easier. Also for folks just getting started using this method and making a planer sled for face joining. it can negate the need for even buying a joiner.
 

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Don Baer said:
Also for folks just getting started using this method and making a planer sled for face joining. it can negate the need for even buying a joiner.
Click to expand...

Not to mention if your boards are too long for a jointer or too wide for a jointer, this and the planer sled makes a pretty good solution.

Just make sure your blade is absolutely square to the table. For my table top, I think my blade might have been literally just a hair off 90. So now I have about a 1/8 curve to my table top.

I'm working on yet another jig/solution to this problem and will hopefully be able to implement it this weekend...
 
Don Baer said:
Brent, don't ya have one of these ?
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Click to expand...

Where did you find an aluminum bevel triangle that's truly accurate? All the ones I've ever seen were close approximations, but not square. Something a carpenter would use, but not a cabinetmaker. :huh:

This is what I use...

10_triangle.jpg

draftingsteals-store_2113_46780761
 
Don Baer said:
Brent, don't ya have one of these ?
Click to expand...

I have had a couple of those. Framing squares or construction squares and that's what they're good for. Mine have never been accurate enough for machine setup. A quality combination square or try square is the better choice for setting up your shop equipment.

Cheers,
 
Vaughn McMillan said:
Where did you find an aluminum bevel triangle that's truly accurate? All the ones I've ever seen were close approximations, but not square. Something a carpenter would use, but not a cabinetmaker. :huh:

This is what I use...

draftingsteals-store_2113_46780761
Click to expand...


well when I bought it I checked it out with this
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so i know it's "TRULY ACCURATE"
 

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I've got the plastic and the stainless steel machinist squares and plastic ones etc...

I just forgot to check before I made the cuts! :rolleyes:

But what I really should have used was my wixey....

As they say, lesson learned...
 
Don Baer said:
well when I bought it I checked it out with this
attachment.php
so i know it's "TRULY ACCURATE"
Click to expand...


Don not trying to contrary but, i have a square just like that. Dad passed it down to me. I tested it and boy i thought no one could ever knock those out of square. Only my Dad could. Now its going to be wall decoration.:eek:

I would check mine if i were you. Show us a couple of lines drawn from the same straight edge.:D i too would trust my wixey before the square.
 
Brent Dowell said:
Not to mention if your boards are too long for a jointer or too wide for a jointer, this and the planer sled makes a pretty good solution.

Just make sure your blade is absolutely square to the table. For my table top, I think my blade might have been literally just a hair off 90. So now I have about a 1/8 curve to my table top.

I'm working on yet another jig/solution to this problem and will hopefully be able to implement it this weekend...
Click to expand...


When I am gluing up boards like this I'll flip the second board in the joint. Say you line the boards up and mark them the way you want. For one board in the joint face the mark towards the jointer fence and for the other board in the joint face it away. Doing this cancels out any unsquareness. Say your jointer fence is set to 89 deg. and the first board is jointed at that, when the second board is jointed the other direction and turned around it makes 91 deg. and the slight unsquareness cancels each other out. May be hard to understand, let me know if you need a better explanation
 
Don, I've used a variation of your idea for tapering a long board. Figure the wide end and narrow end and use a spacer at the narrow end to cut the taper. Did this on some door trim where there was about a 3/4" difference in 6 1/2 ft. Worked like a champ.:thumb: When your house is 100+ years old sometimes you're lucky to find parallel areas for trim.
 
Don:

Thanks for the idea. I'm jointer-less and am working with rough cut lumber more and more.

Would the BORG have appropriate 1" Square Aluminum tubing? I might have trouble finding a metal sales shop that will sell me 1 8' piece . . .

I'm sure if the material handlers at the BORG try hard enough they could turn a 48" long tube in a circle . . .

Cheers

Jim
 
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