Help needed on Bench Dog holes and routing

Rob Keeble

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GTA Ontario Canada
Ok so time has finally come for me to make some bench dog holes and hold down holes in my bench.

3/4 inch holes they gonna be. My Gramercy hold downs have arrived.

A few week ends ago examined my options in this regard and came to the conclusion best method for me would be using the plunge router on a base with template for guidance and positioning.

Ok now i have a PC 893PK kit with plunge or fixed base.

Going to buy a new router bit from Busy Bee for this job. I have used these types of bits and they are pretty good and i see them now as consumable. So if this lasts for the bench holes I will be happy. Freud version here is 3 x price.:eek:

Thing i am trying to work out is whether this will go through or should i be looking to put a 1/2 inch bit that is available and longer all the way through then coming back and cleaning out the holes.

Note my bench is SPF construction wood laminated together.

I would like to end up with nice clean holes.

My reckoning is bit length is 3 inch total. cutting edge length is plenty 1.25 inch long, my plunge base goes down 2 inches i think. Bench is just around 3 inches thick. So if i factor in say 1 inch for the collet then there is 2 inches of bit length left sticking out. Then add the plunge ability and i believe i should surely get down to the bottom of the bench surface.

Any comments or alternative ideas on how to do it. Wish i had my Dads old B&D drill press for the corded drill. It would have been a doddle to drill these holes with that and ensure 90 degrees.

Then the next thing that has had me procrastinating over this is the number of holes. I figure less is more, given i can always add especially if i use a setup that is easily repeatable.


What say the Brain Trust out there.?? Open to suggestions alternatives or critique.
 
If you are going to use a vise and bench dogs your spacing should be based on your vices jaw capacity. You don't want to space them so you have a dead zone.

Cheers,
 
DONT ask JIM Bradley he makes trash outa router bits tryun to make those holes ask glenn:rofl::rofl:

Well, there's coffee all over the monitor again :thumb:. The bit you show does not appear to be a plunge bit. That being the case I would drill a hole first a little larger than the diameter of the bit face that has no cutting surface (between the carbide on the tip). This will also just make it plain easier on you just like hogging out material before routing a long dovetail or t-slot run.

As to number, that is as different as we are. I have three positions in my vise faces so I run rows of three on 6" centers (once I clear the vise hardware). As long as the holes are spaced so that you can tighten on them given the travel of your vise, your good. Any closer than that just means less adjustment distance and a little time saving but it is incidental in practice for me.

P.s. don't forget to clamp on a backer board to avoid blowout. DAMHIKT.

Here's my super-sophisticated rig:
 

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I'd nix the router. If you have to get through 3" of wood and 1" of the bit is in the collect and you're going to lose another 1/2" for more between the collet and the top of the bench, your bit would have to be 5" long. No way would I have that much bit hanging out of a tool that spun as fast as a router. And you may have heard, I have had a bit of experience with a router. :doh: And then there is guiding the bit so your holes are uniform. Way too much trouble and more than a little risky, not only for you but also for the bench. Thinking here you don't want to screw things up now. :rolleyes:

Google drill guides. Sears has one for $30. Attach your hand drill. Get a brad point bit with a step down shaft for this project and Bob's your uncle.

BTW, this is a handy little jig. Had one for years. Gets in the middle of things, if you get my drift.
 
On my bench I used a drill guide and a 3/4" spade bit. Had 6 inches of oak to go through and it worked fine...
 
Well i would like to thank Carol and demonstrate that I heed the advice of more experienced woodworkers to the letter.

Thank you Carol.:thumb:


Aint drilled the holes yet but picked up a drill jig from busy bee tools.

IMG_0360.jpg it was $17 and i got away lucky that my electric drill just managed to fit with a new set of longer bolts.:bang:

Just in case anyone else out there has use for this idea, DONT buy this item. I will make it work. But its a load of junk. Had to retap the holes in the rods to fit the base. The plastic pieces that give you the illusion it can go at different angles and be equal are junk.:mad:

I should have sprung for the LV one it has a chuck which ensures no drill fitting issues but i had a price point in my head and really am only going to use it for the bench dog holes so it will work and do the job.

Fitted a base with bullseye to it so its all good to go. Now to remember Glenns tip and get done with marking up the bench. (Procrastinating and nervous about where to place em holes.):rofl::rofl:
 
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I don't see it being complicated. For mine, I chucked up a bit, forget what kind, put in a drill, eyeballed the plane, IMHO, perfect is not critical or necessary, and drilled.
Am I missing something? Or are we just talking about what separates me from the perfectionists? :doh:
 
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