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Thread: Drywall-ceiling question

  1. #1
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    Question Drywall-ceiling question

    Jan and I have (I think) finally decided on the new kitchen cabinets (sorry, not building my own) and we should be placing the order soon. Two of the things she is not happy with in the current kitchen are the soffits (bulkheads for our northern neighbors) and the knock down textured ceiling. At first I thought I would simply replace the ceiling, but that would require getting up in the attic and moving a couple of cubic yards of 35 year old blown in cellulose insulation, and still getting a bunch of it in my face when the ceiling came down. Then re-insulating when the new ceiling goes up.

    An easier solution, I think, is to simply patch the areas where the soffits are coming out and then cover the entire ceiling with 1/4" drywall. This minimizes the mess and should save me a couple of days in labor. The lower ceiling line can be disguised with a bit of trim running across the one open wall to the kitchen.

    Question: Can I use 1/4" drywall on the ceiling? My trusses are on 24" centers, so I think I might need some adhesive as well to keep it from sagging in the future. Is this the way to go or must I use 1/2"? Is there a better way that I'm not thinking of?
    Last edited by Rennie Heuer; 08-09-2010 at 03:58 AM.
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  2. #2
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    we have in the past used 1/2 over a old plaster ceiling rennie and that passed the township inspections.. but dont think 1/4" was around then..just dont skimp on the anchors.. i am sure chuck thiots or others can give you more up to date info on the use of 1/4" drywall..i would say yes but i am not sure so dont go on my thoughts on 1/4"
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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  3. #3
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    Drywall in the soffits (don't forget to insulate), tape and plaster the joints, primer the whole ceiling and then skim coat it with joint compound.

    I am assuming this is over knockdown plaster not a popcorn ceiling finish.
    Dan Gonzales
    Whittier, CA, USA
    Dona nobis pacem

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gonzales View Post
    Drywall in the soffits (don't forget to insulate), tape and plaster the joints, primer the whole ceiling and then skim coat it with joint compound.

    I am assuming this is over knockdown plaster not a popcorn ceiling finish.
    Dan, that would have been my first choice, and it is how I have done the walls in several rooms. However, I feared that because the ceiling has been panted several time with a glossy paint that the compound might not stick. Do you think that a good coat or two of primer would fix that? It sure would make my life a little easier.
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  5. #5
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    If the previous paint has good adhesion. No peeling, flaking or bubbling present. Do a really good wipe down using TSP to clean and degrease. Then use a quality primer Zinser, Kilz and Behr make good ones. In my experience if the previous paint is oil-based, then use an oil-based primer. If it is latex you can use either an oil-based or water-based primer. The oil-based primers block and seal better (stains, smoke, nicotine, pet/animal, odors) especially good for nasty rental refurbs.
    Dan Gonzales
    Whittier, CA, USA
    Dona nobis pacem

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Rennie Heuer View Post
    Jan and I have (I think) finally decided on the new kitchen cabinets (sorry, not building my own) and we should be placing the order soon. Two of the things she is not happy with in the current kitchen are the soffits (bulkheads for our northern neighbors) and the knock down textured ceiling. At first I thought I would simply replace the ceiling, but that would require getting up in the attic and moving a couple of cubic yards of 35 year old blown in cellulose insulation, and still getting a bunch of it in my face when the ceiling came down. Then re-insulating when the new ceiling goes up.

    An easier solution, I think, is to simply patch the areas where the soffits are coming out and then cover the entire ceiling with 1/4" drywall. This minimizes the mess and should save me a couple of days in labor. The lower ceiling line can be disguised with a bit of trim running across the one open wall to the kitchen.

    Question: Can I use 1/4" drywall on the ceiling? My trusses are on 24" centers, so I think I might need some adhesive as well to keep it from sagging in the future. Is this the way to go or must I use 1/2"? Is there a better way that I'm not thinking of?
    Just thinking outside of the box here. The wife and I had a similar issue. We ended up using these planks from armstrong. Really not expensive and VERY easy to put up. Also..no finish work at the end. Just a thought.

    http://www.armstrong.com/resclgam/na.../us/planks.asp

  7. #7
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    or you could use the old style tin ceiling material rennie
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dom DiCara View Post
    Just thinking outside of the box here. The wife and I had a similar issue. We ended up using these planks from armstrong. Really not expensive and VERY easy to put up. Also..no finish work at the end. Just a thought.

    http://www.armstrong.com/resclgam/na.../us/planks.asp
    I like these, myself. Don't know how Jan thinks about them. I did the office room ceiling in bead board.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    or you could use the old style tin ceiling material rennie
    I like this also, but not sure it would go well with the look we're going for. These tend to be more Victorian, whereas we are going for Craftsman bungalow.
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  10. #10
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    I'd second the skim coat. A bit more sanding, but would make a nicer transition to the other room.
    Darren

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