Wet Sanding

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I am working on a table that is a potential huge problem. It is a beautiful book matched mahogany table but is particle board substructure. A large chandler fell on it and created some rather large compression dents.
1st. Added just enough water to the dents to lift them before stripping. After stripping cleaned with lacquer thinner so not to cause any unwanted puckering on the substructure.
2nd. 3 piss coats of sanding lacquer sealer then sand with 320 and repeat.
3rd. 3 coats of finish in this case High Gloss lacquer. 1 piss coat and 2 heavy coats.
4th. Wet sand with 400.
Now I use tap water cool water and few drops of dish washing liquid.
Begin with a sanding block and the paper wraped around it. Start with a light touch so not to burn through the finish.
I go over a single area a minumum of 7 times and since I am right handed I start on my rt. and move lt.
Now for the details' As I am rapidly half with of the table I am listening for the sound of the finish to soften from a raspy sound to a smooth sound. as the sound softens I slide a little left and cut the finish down to that smooth sound.
1 of the best helpers or tricks I have used in learning how to make the paper last is to get as much saliva mixed in with the water. I dip tobacco so having enough is not a problem, if you do not dip do not start use gum LOL.
You want to create a nice foam of white residue when sanding and try not to lift the paper off the table, that will increase the likelihood of clogging to the paper. Add saliva as you go.
Now once you are to the other end the edges are left with unsanded areas and you can see it in the shinny little creators left. You can take the sand paper and something I would not advise for the novice, work agaise the grain length-wise but lightly and most times only about 1" of 2 in withe is needed to remove the area that was not sanded. Then sand out with the grain lightly to remove cross grain scratches. Now do the other side.
5. on to the next step; apply 3 oats for finish 1 piss coat 2 regular. Now wet sand with 400 lightly then 600 lightly then move to 1200 but a little more pressure will be needed and then 2000 gt. Once you have finished with 2000 you are ready to buff with fine Liberon steel wool and wax.
 

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i would have very nervous putting water on that table,, but if you have done it once and see that it works then its not so bad..:) and i think you might have done it more than once:thumb::thumb: nice step by step..that looks like a spong your sing as block am i correct rather than a block of wood?
 
Thanks Dave I learn from you non stop. Only thing i would like to know is how long you leave these individual coats before you touch them.

I know you using lacquer spray so i guess that dries pretty quickly. But are we talking leaving it for hours of a day between. How many days did this job take you for example. Just want a feel for duration.

BTW Dave I had to look up what dipping tobacco meant me being from another part of the globe.

I dont think i will be trying that out after getting this popping up after googling dip tobacco.:(:huh:
 
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well steve, i can attest it isnt easy, but its possible.. and gator would like you to i am sure..first time was age twelve.. i think gum is cheaper these days as well.
 
Thanks Dave, this came at a good time for me.

I need to do a little wet sanding and the first time I tried I really botched things up...
 
On step 5. I dropped the Piss coat and went with 2 heavy coats. Reason. I needed to wool out the table because I had not applied a coat sense Friday.
Step 6. After I wooled the table out with Purple pads I like to use MICRO FIBER RAGS. These rags and great and you can buy them in bundles at Home depot. They will pick up all lint and sanding residue, they will wipe a table dry and you can wash them for reuse. The 2nd coat I laid on a little heaver over the areas that received the most damage and they will sand out nicely with the 600 grit wet sand.
Now applying the 1&2 coat after wooling the table I start with the edges 1st then the top. Placing myself in the inside of the table top I spray from outside in and over lap my fan by at least 1/2 and move slowly with the gun 5-6" above the table. This allows the finish to not set before the next pass which will also allow for a laying out of an even coat.
I'm done with applying finish now back to Wet Sanding.
 

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The next step is fine wet sanding. I sometimes use a block and paper but for this table I will be using a air sander which cuts the time about 2/3rds. 1st grt. 500, 2nd grt 1000 and 3rd grt 1200 I really need to do 2000 but will have to wait till tomorrow.
This sanding goes fast and if not careful will cut through all the clear coats into the finish.
 

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another step towards perfection!!! and i saw one of those sanders and wondered what it was for thought it was for car bodys but i quess i was wrong again and missed another boat:)
 
Finial set after 2000 gr wet sanding is to rub the piece out. I use Liberon very fine steel wool , a good soft rag that has not lint and a good furniture wax. This wax I am using is a dark Oak color tone to add to the richness of the table.
I use very little wax as I rub it into the top with the soft rag. You can apply wax right or wrong. If you apply wax in very conservative coats, 3 coats will usually do it, you will eliminate pooling up of wax and having to deal with excessive buffing.
After the apply the way I take the Steel wool and lightly work it with the grain. Keeping a light touch on pressure as to buff with eh steel wool.
1st pick is for sheen. 2000 wet sand look Vs one coat of buffed wax

2nd pic is for color and depth and clarity.
 

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