wood storage

Drew Watson

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2,070
Location
Salt Spring Island, BC Canada
Just a question in regards to wood storage. I am still new to the whole turning thing and have scored some good lots of wood over the past 8 months, but some of that wood has split and cracked a whole lot even though I sealed up the ends. Sort of been an experiment year trying out what works and what doesn't in our climate, but with an abnormal hot summer it has dried things faster than "normal", I guess. I have rough turned and bagged some and tried the DNA with others and and others I have left on the shelf in the garage ( coolest driest place ) I tried boiling a couple and have tried a few things that I have read on line. Is there some trick to this. The biggest problem I have had is with the japanese cherry wood. Cracked and split to beat the band. The ones that didn't do anything were sealed up in a rubber maid container but they have gotten mold on them. It turns off but is this "normal" any suggestions out there as to what I am doing wrong?
 
I can't offer any suggestions for you Drew... I run into same problems here in TN.. plus I really don't have room for any storage to speak of.... most of my wood in log form is stacked in the yard on blocks to raise off the ground and then covered with tarps. Some piece I do have cut and stacked on a rack I built behind my shop and again, covered with a tarp.. some is cracking, must most seems to be holding up pretty well.... I know a lot of it is getting punky and not turnable... I'll turn what I can and try to stabilize it some.
 
Drew, I don't think you're doing anything wrong. All of the methods you described work...sometimes. Some woods crack a lot, regardless of what you try. And if you seal them up tight enough, they get moldy. (The Japanese cherry sounds like one of those.) I've got some four year old wood in my stash...all from the same tree. Some of the pieces have cracked badly and others are in great shape, but they were all treated and sealed the same. :huh:

In general, the sooner you can rough turn a blank, the less likely it is to crack. But as you know, it's not always possible to get the whole load of wood rough turned before it starts cracking on you.
 
That was my problem Vaughn. I went on a run to get as much wood together as I could ( new turner syndrome I guess) I wasn't able to take the time to turn everything and I guess this is all part of the learning process. Now i am doing what I can to rough turn as much as I can and salvage what I can from what is left. Still have to aquire more wood though and winter is coming so what cracked will be burnt and maybe give a nice flame to heat the house. Glad to hear that I am not alone and I am doing something right.
 
Drew I think you are fine. I agree with Vaughn and find the sooner I rough turn the wood the better. I have some Elm and Walnut that are 2 to 3 yrs old coated with anchorseal (two coats). There are one or two of each that cracked pretty good. I cut them up for lidded boxes or ornaments but most are ok. Your fruit woods have a greater tendency to crack IMHO no matter how you treat them. As far as drying I quit the DNA and now use Mike Mahoney's method that he showed at one of his demo's and have had great success with it. When roughed turned as soon as it comes off the lathe I coat the whole piece with anchorseal. Yea it takes 6 months to a year to dry but I have had great success with very, very little cracking. I store them in a room around 68 deg and very little air movement on the floor. I just keep roughing and I will have a stash (around 40 blanks now) that will be in varying states of dryness to keep me going.
 
Drew, I have some great apricot that my BIL had in his flower bed for 4 years and it is great for pens!! Almond, free for the taking around here, checks as soon as you look at it. Luck of the draw maybe?
 
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