getting a steering wheel off

Carol Reed

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Coolidge, AZ
I need to replace the steering wheel on my JD garden tractor. The technical manual says to remove a threaded pin. That was a chore but I got it out and cleaned up the buggered threads.

I tried a gear puller but no joy. I have some WD-40 soaking in it. Only thing I had on hand, I also introduced it to my dead plow hammer. Will both hands! Stuck.

Any suggestions?
 
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getting a steering off

Hi Carole.

Which JD tractor is yours again? I have a couple good steering wheels, and even good steering assemblies. If you tell me what you have, and some good pix of it, and the tractor, I may be able to help.

Let me know.

Aloha, Tony
 
Hi Tony,

I have the 180 from the middle eighties. I have the new steering wheel, but the old one is stuck. The tech manual simply says pull it off.

Right.
 
Try taking a propane torch to the metal part, get it nice and hot and then let it cool down. The expansion and contraction of the metal might break it loose.

Cheers,
 
Did you know the "WD" in WD-40 stands for "Water Dispersant" ?

Well it does, WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil, that is what you need.

Get some Kana Labs penatrating oil called >> Kroil <<

That is what you need :D

well that and a bigger hammer ;) :rofl::rofl:
 
Carol, I would stay away from the heat idea at the moment, there is a lot of plastic and somewhere grease with a bearing that just might create a big mess/fire. You say you have a gear/steering wheel puller. Put that back on, put some decent pressure on it, then hit the end of the gear puller's bolt with a ball peen/small hand sledge hammer. Don't use the dead blow because it won't send the needed shock wave down the bolt to "snap" the wheel loose. When using a steering wheel puller, many times what happens is the steering wheel is of light enough gauge metal that it actual bends into a slight U shape (might not be visible to the naked eye)((that doesn't mean your eye needs to go inside and get dressed!:rofl::rofl::rofl:)) okay sorry, back to our discussion. By the metal bending into this U shape, hitting the top of the bolt on the gear puller, it sends a shock wave down the bolt to the item being bent and will cause it to snap up/loose so it is straight. Thus you tighten the bolt on the gear puller more and repeat until loose. Sometimes once it "snaps" it is loose. This is a fine line, not enough pressure, when you hit the bolt the gear puller wants to fall off. To tight and it has created a U that can't come loose. Hope this helps and you are successful. Oh, you can put pressure on it and then with some type of pentrating/lubricating oil, spray and wait, tighten, spray, hit with hammer, etc. Don't forget the safety glasses now that you have introduced WD-40 and eventually other lubricants.
 
Thanks, guys. I knew I didn't have the right stuff, but WD-40 was all I had. I'll get the Kroil or PBB Blaster tomorrow when I go into town.

I tried hitting downward, but being mindful of what's at the other end of that shaft. Don't want to make matters worse.

I have a small 2# sledge. But it has a rather short handle. I'll try that next.

The puller is just a three point gear puller. It gets hold OK but just the edges of the plastic which then foids and tears. I am going to saw off the old steering wheel and get rid of the plastic so I am pulling on the metal sleeve. There is no bearing in there, just a hunk of metal.

I have the tech manual with all the pictures and procedures. That is why I am mindful of the other end of the shaft. The cross bolt was really stuck and hard to get at. I finally really whacked it hard and it started to move.

I searched the tractor forums and others had the same problems, but no real solutions were offered; just guys relating their problem. One guy did saw his off and was still having trouble. But I don't know what else he was doing.

I'll keep you all posted, but keep the ideas coming.
 
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Well, between the penetrating oil and Jonathan's idea of putting the puller on and wacking it, it hopefully will come loose.

I've had to use a thin cut-off wheel in either a grinder or a die grinder to cut a slit in sleeves and nuts before to get them broke loose. If you cut slow with the cut the same direction as the shaft to make the relief. May not even have to cut all the way to the shaft (but very, very close) and when pulling or hammering the metal will stretch enough to break loose.
 
Carol, the gear pullers bolt should line up with your steering wheel's bolt, thus hitting it sends the shock needed to snap it loose. The top of the bolt on the lawn mower should have a center dimple to help. If you have the three armed puller with "jaws" sometimes I have replaced the metal arms with chain. Don't cut the wheel yet, the outside circle keeps everything from collapsing. Might make a difficult job almost impossible. Can you connect the jaws/chains to the spokes on the steering wheel?

try this? http://en.allexperts.com/q/Small-Engines-Lawn-1746/John-Deere-180-steering.htm

Don't know how helpful this is as the school's website blocks it.
http://www.google.com/url?url=http:...+wheel&usg=AFQjCNHilKiKNr14mV6OrWv98fxUqt9ynA

If all else fails, notice near the last post the picture of how to remove the two bolts and the whole steering shaft will come out through the dash. Thus it might be easier to get to the back of the wheel to "push" instead of "pulling" the wheel. Also more convenient to take to your friendly mechanic and plead for mercy and ask him/her to cut or take it off for you.
 
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All of the above ideas are great, Dead blow hammers are just that (deaden the inpact of the whacker) revert back to the heavy duty bonkers, A ball peen is an excellant choice or a 2 pounder with a good round house swing. the puller whack is an excellant option as well as the oil (save WD for squeaks) Heat pointed at the end of the shaft is a good option and if you pinpoint the flame and do it outside and pay attention, you shouldn't set the world on fire.

Of course if you buy new, they come with new steering wheels, help the economy, support BO's recovery, get a new seat as well, New tires and all... :thumb: Don't even have to sharpen the blades or replace the belt....yet!
 
Gees, guys! Some really great ideas, some not so. :doh:

Sorry, no new tractor - was hardly able to afford this one! No pleading mercy either. If mere man can do the job, then so can woman! :D:D

I will take a look at pulling the whole shaft however. My brother is a metal guy with all the tools, like cutters. Besides, he owes me! But he is building a new house and is more than busy at the moment. If I pull the shaft and take it to him, that might work, but first we will see what I can do.

The puller only grasps the plastic. The wheel has only two spokes. Getting the puller lined up to pull straight ain't easy! That doesn't help either!
 
Carol, our own Rex Bloem works on JD mowers for a living...I would pm him to make sure he sees the thread. Hope you get it worked out soon!
 
carol, you stated that the steering wheel are plastic with a steel sleeve---what hold the plastic to the metal sleeve ? can the plastic be cut with a sharp chisel ? will coke [the soft drink] remove rust ?
 
I felt my ears burning so I thought that I would check it out. Carol if it is that stuck you will have to cut the plastic off so the puller will hook onto the metal sleeve inside the wheel. Tighten the bolt as tight as you can then smack it with a hammer. If this doesn't work you may have to cut the metal sleeve and then pull. It is a little far for a service call from here.
 
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