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Thread: A Tiled Floor in SU

  1. #1
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    A Tiled Floor in SU

    In case there might be some interest, here's a method for creating some tiles. I used it for floor tiles but the method could be used for anything where you need the appearance but not necessarily the components. Perhaps you want to create the look of bead board or car siding or acoustic tile. Done as I've shown, the results are easy to handle and reusable.


    Click on the picture
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  2. #2
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    Thanks again Dave for all of your great help.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  3. #3
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    I just have to learn sketch up one of these days
    Faith, Hope & Charity

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Gibson View Post
    I just have to learn sketch up one of these days
    I can help you with that.
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  5. #5
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    Just love looking at the pictures you create from your models. I love using sketchup for designing, but one of these days I need to take it to the next level...

  6. #6
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    Thanks Brent and Don.
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  7. #7
    Dave

    Maybe you can answer me a sketchup question. I want to use a photo and I have no problem using the photo. Here it is:


    The problem I run into is when I am making components, in a curved area such as the legs . Also...when a piece of furniture has fluted corners, where do you put the green axis?...on the middle?
    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 345_3_.jpg  

  8. #8
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    Dom, I don't quite understand your question. Are you trying to use the photo you posted for Photo Match? That particular one isn't especially well suited for that but you could make it work.

    As far as making components of curved parts and placing the green axis, I don't understand what you're asking.
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Richards View Post
    Dom, I don't quite understand your question. Are you trying to use the photo you posted for Photo Match? That particular one isn't especially well suited for that but you could make it work.

    As far as making components of curved parts and placing the green axis, I don't understand what you're asking.
    Sorry Dave....let me try again...my fault.

    I want to design and build a version of what is in the picture. My wife loves early Italian furniture...that being said.

    I am using SU 8, I want to use the picture using photo Match. I set the picture in SU, and set the red and green axis......and set the origin...no problem.

    when I start using the "pencil" to make my rectangles, to make components, I always have a problem when I get to the bottom of a piece of furniture, especially if it has curved feet.

    Maybe, since you are so good at SU, could you give a tutorial on how to use photo match, especially when it comes to making curved, fluted, etc shapes.

    I hope that helps. I am sorry that I was not clearer before. Must be my meds

  10. #10
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    No worries. I see what you're getting at now. You don't suppose you could get your wife to like Early Stoneage instead?

    I'll work up a tutorial on using PhotoMatch but in the meantime, I would suggest this: don't worry about the details like the feet until you have the basic shape drawn. Once you've got that, you can orbit around to work on adding the feet and other details. Of course when you orbit, you'll lose the image but at that point you won't really need it. After you've got the basic shape and proportions drawn, you could probably delete the PhotoMatched image. I would be inclined to import the image again, though, as an image and stand it up in the background to use as a reference. That way you don't have to look away from the screen.

    When you set up the PhotoMatch for that image, I think you'll find that it sets the camera's "lens" to a pretty short focal length. After you've got the basics down and you're finished with the PM image, you'll find it easier to continue working if you increase the focal length to 60 or 70 mm.

    Do you have any other images of this piece? It would be nice to have a 3/4 view so you can see the side of it as well.

    One other thing I would do in the case of this piece is draw only half of it. then copy those components and mirror them to make the other half.

    I hope that helps.
    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

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