220 Power Question

Cynthia the answer to both questions is Yes. Obviously you better off with your own 220V circuit but in a pinch you can use an extension cord as long as the wire size and plug types are up to sniff. Some folks get 220 to their shops from an extension cord run to their laundry.
 
I would love my own 220 in the shop, as my tablesaw and compressor both use it. Fortunately, I never use them at the same time.

I do, however, siphon the power from the dryer, so We do coordinate whether we are doing laundry, or woodworking, at any one point in time...
 
...is there any significant advantage to me having 220 in *my* shop?

Thanks all.....

Unless you have tools that require it, there's not a significant advantage. Some tools can be set up to run on either voltage, but any benefit from running on 220v instead of 110v is debatable. (And has been debated over and over.) My lathe and compressor require 220v, but my table saw and bandsaw can run on either voltage. When I added the 220v circuits to my shop, I changed the TS and BS from 110v to 220v -- mostly because I could -- but can't say that I see any difference in how they run.

Your current tools, and the ones in your immediate future, can all run on 110v, so no, I don't see an advantage.
 
When I had my box wired for 220 to run my new lathe I made and use an extension cord about 24' long from the box to the machine. This gives me versatility for other uses and future changes as well. Just be sure to use heavy enough wire.
 
My DVR lathe picks up a significant amount of HP when switched from 100V to 200V, but it is the exception to the rule.

What you really want is 200V three phase, then you can have ALL the toys.................. Yes, I have 200V three phase :headbang: :wave:
 
Cynthia i dont see why you cannot run 220v on an extension cord. We did it back in SA where all the power is 220V.:) Same for the UK.

I would go as far as to say its probably safer than 110V for a simple reason.

Here is a very simplified explanation of the issue.

Machines motors require power to work. Power is measured in Watts.

The basic formula (not precise for other more complicated reasons) for power is P= V X I where

P is measured in watts
V is the voltage
I is the current drawn by the motor.

(just remember what i listed this is simplied in fact its Direct Current Power but for illustration purposes it will do).

so say you have a 1KW requirement. 1KW = 1000 watts

therefore

1000 = V X I

In the case of 110v

I = 1000/110v = approx 9 amps of current

In the case of 220v

I = 1000/220v = approx 4.54 amps


So the higher the voltage the lower the current for the same power requirement. When you come to running an extension cord the issue that always causes a problem is the fact that people tend to overload an extension cords ratings. Putting a higher current through a underated extension cord causes it to heat up and potentially start a fire when that heat gets to the point of softening the plastic insulating coating.

But you also have to consider the quality of insulation. Typically these insulating materials will be way over the 220V rating.


There is difference between powering a machine with 220v and 110v but it would take a lot of complicated calculations to determine and would be specific to each machines specific motors construction and in my view the differences would end up being pretty small.

Something that does not come up often as a suggestion here is that you might consider is to install what i believe Americans call a pony panel. I call it a sub panel.

Have a decent sized cable run from your main panel out to your shop with a main breaker installed in the sub panel. Then put all your shop circuits on that sub panel. That way you can have whatever you like in your shop. Not the 3 phase that Stu refers to but certainly 220V.

The 220v in your shop is not complicated to do. Most houses are on at least 2 phases. Each phase is 110v. So all the electician does is run a wire from both phases.

In my view Glassman should (with the help of the books available at the HD both their electrical book and the local code book) be able to do this electrical for you both. You are permited in Ontario to do your own electrical on your house provided you have it inspected by the ESA (electrical safety authority). I found my ESA guy to be very helpful. For the straight forward recepticles etc its not complicated. Just be weary of the HD guys for advice. I got a local electrician in but he advised me to do it myself. The job was not really big enough for him. But for a couple of hundred $$ he did provide me with some good general advice on things to ensure etc.

The costly part is really all the materials but at the end of the day its not complicated to do. Its not as if you are putting in 3 way switches and wiring up switchgear.

Its more just a matter of time. But i should mention i have had Electronics or Electrical Engineering education and worked with electricians both contractor types military types in my past in SA and Canada.

I still dont see why people shy away from it. There are certain basics which are outlined very well in pictures in the HD books and you just have to read the codes and the basic code book for your region is pretty straight forward for what you want to do.

Best of luck.
 
It can be useful. The two things that come to mind: if you want over about 1.5hp induction motor on anything, it will have to be 220V. The other you might run across some used equpment that require it to run.

Other than that, I would put it in if you were getting ready to finish the walls, or do something that would make installing it at a later date more difficult or expensive. If not, you can always wait until you need it to install. If the wiring route is very long, it gets pretty expensive to buy wire that will run a 3hp tool
 
What the difference in an extension cord and a long cord on he machine? An extra plug. Power has to come from your panel to the shop, or for that matter from the pole to the house or the power plant to....... It's all wire and electricity could care less. Just give it the proper size path and good connections it's no problem. I do it all the time so I can move my planner and shaper to near the door in the summer.
 
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You are permited in Ontario to do your own electrical on your house provided you have it inspected by the ESA (electrical safety authority). I found my ESA guy to be very helpful. For the straight forward recepticles etc its not complicated. Just be weary of the HD guys for advice. I got a local electrician in but he advised me to do it myself. The job was not really big enough for him. But for a couple of hundred $$ he did provide me with some good general advice on things to ensure etc.

I still dont see why people shy away from it. There are certain basics which are outlined very well in pictures in the HD books and you just have to read the codes and the basic code book for your region is pretty straight forward for what you want to do.

Best of luck.

The same goes here in BC you can do electrical , plumbing and construction with the local municiple inspectors. They are ususally very helpful so long as your not a jerk about it with them. I have wired in my own homes in the past as well as I do all my own plumbing (when I can). Of course I work with all the other trades on a regular basis, so I get access to all the code issues that I might have. I also did an electronics course some years back and have some insite into how things work in the electrical field (not saying I am an expert or anything, but I can muddle through without zapping myself) I agree with Rob that it is quite easy to do yourself, but wiring at the panel is something that you don't want to mess with unless you have some understanding of what you are doing.

The fuse panel has 220 in it at all times even with the main shut off. Any work that you do to hooking up wiring should be done with the main breaker in the off position. I have done lots of wiring in my shop and have 220 to all my machines that need it. There are a few people at the Borgs that know what they are talking about but be careful as i have run into a few plumbers working in the electrical dept that are just down right dangerous to take advice from.

Saying all that, anything can be done, but if you do the wiring yourself and the house burns down as a direct result of something that you have done and not gotten inspected your insurance may not cover the damage.
 
Cynthia i dont see why you cannot run 220v on an extension cord. We did it back in SA where all the power is 220V.:) Same for the UK.

I would go as far as to say its probably safer than 110V for a simple reason.

Here is a very simplified explanation of the issue.

Machines motors require power to work. Power is measured in Watts.

The basic formula (not precise for other more complicated reasons) for power is P= V X I where

P is measured in watts
V is the voltage
I is the current drawn by the motor.

(just remember what i listed this is simplied in fact its Direct Current Power but for illustration purposes it will do).

so say you have a 1KW requirement. 1KW = 1000 watts

therefore

1000 = V X I

In the case of 110v

I = 1000/110v = approx 9 amps of current

In the case of 220v

I = 1000/220v = approx 4.54 amps


So the higher the voltage the lower the current for the same power requirement. When you come to running an extension cord the issue that always causes a problem is the fact that people tend to overload an extension cords ratings. Putting a higher current through a underated extension cord causes it to heat up and potentially start a fire when that heat gets to the point of softening the plastic insulating coating.

But you also have to consider the quality of insulation. Typically these insulating materials will be way over the 220V rating.


There is difference between powering a machine with 220v and 110v but it would take a lot of complicated calculations to determine and would be specific to each machines specific motors construction and in my view the differences would end up being pretty small.

Something that does not come up often as a suggestion here is that you might consider is to install what i believe Americans call a pony panel. I call it a sub panel.

Have a decent sized cable run from your main panel out to your shop with a main breaker installed in the sub panel. Then put all your shop circuits on that sub panel. That way you can have whatever you like in your shop. Not the 3 phase that Stu refers to but certainly 220V.

The 220v in your shop is not complicated to do. Most houses are on at least 2 phases. Each phase is 110v. So all the electician does is run a wire from both phases.

In my view Glassman should (with the help of the books available at the HD both their electrical book and the local code book) be able to do this electrical for you both. You are permited in Ontario to do your own electrical on your house provided you have it inspected by the ESA (electrical safety authority). I found my ESA guy to be very helpful. For the straight forward recepticles etc its not complicated. Just be weary of the HD guys for advice. I got a local electrician in but he advised me to do it myself. The job was not really big enough for him. But for a couple of hundred $$ he did provide me with some good general advice on things to ensure etc.

The costly part is really all the materials but at the end of the day its not complicated to do. Its not as if you are putting in 3 way switches and wiring up switchgear.

Its more just a matter of time. But i should mention i have had Electronics or Electrical Engineering education and worked with electricians both contractor types military types in my past in SA and Canada.

I still dont see why people shy away from it. There are certain basics which are outlined very well in pictures in the HD books and you just have to read the codes and the basic code book for your region is pretty straight forward for what you want to do.

Best of luck.

Looks like college is paying off. I understood all of that:thumb::thumb:
 
Honestly if your going to have an electrician out to fix other things then you might as well find out what it would cost for a 220 volt outlet or two. The extention cord bit will get old real quick and you won't limit your machine purchases if you happen to run across a good price on a piece of equipment.:wave:
 
Cynthia, With all the tools you're going to be buying, tell Glassman that you want your own sub-panel. No need to run a wire or two back to the main panel every time you buy a new machine, will save you money in the long run just to have a sub-panel in your shop. ;) Make GlassMan borrow power from you.:D
 
Cynthia, With all the tools you're going to be buying, tell Glassman that you want your own sub-panel. No need to run a wire or two back to the main panel every time you buy a new machine, will save you money in the long run just to have a sub-panel in your shop. ;) Make GlassMan borrow power from you.:D

+1 on the subpanel. In fact I had one installed in my garage right next to my main panel. It was easier to run all the new wiring to the machines and added outlets from a new subpanel and then feed the subpanel from the main. There is a thread from me on this upgrade around here someplace, with pictures!
 
Sub panel ......make sure you have room for expansion. Circuits and receptacles are to men what shoes are like to woman...you can never have enough of them. This is what you want Cynthia.:rofl: And the yellow wire you see coming into the panel is 220V circuits in my shop. The conduit on the side of the panel is the main cable to the house panel that i pulled in myself with the help of loml and a fishtape and her muscles. :rofl: Shes a keeper with her skill.;) The yellow pipe you see is the natural gas line for my heater. Dont forget the fire extinguisher.


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Hi Everyone,

I have two 220 v circuits. Each is dedicated to one machine. One is my dust collector and the other is my air compressor. Oh yes, there is also the 220 to the clothes dryer from the Main panel.

Electrical wiring is quite basic for the things we do in a shop. Follow directions in a book; don't improvise. Use your head and ask questions if you even THINK about asking a question.

I have a sub-panel for my shop. The door to the sub opens into the shop. The sub is adjacent to the main panel for the house which is accessable only from outside.

I have very many 110 outlets in my shop. I also have many breakers in my sub-panel. I cannot overload any circuit. I also have a couple "dedicated" outlets. By that I mean that there is only one outlet on the circuit breaker. There is usually nothing plugged in to either one of them. I don't have to have concern about load if I am using a new piece of equipment or did something like changing the wiring in a motor to make it run the other direction if I use a dedicated outlet first.

I keep lighting separate from power. If a machine trips a breaker, I don't want the lights to go out. I also want to see so I can turn the machine off so it will not restart when the power comes back on.

The house has dedicated circuits also. My computer has its own circuit as does the music system and the toilet.

Since Rob is in on this thread I will add that he gave me a good day with his comments on the USA political system (voting). Thanks Rob.

Actually, some day I would really like to vote FOR someone for an office. Instead I have to vote for the lesser of two evils. Since I have this attitude, reading what Rob wrote really gave me an uplift.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
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