Friend wants to make end grain countertops

If it's all end grain, it's not mixed orientation. Mixed would be end grain and long grain on the same plane.

When a board moves due to humidity changes, it tends to swell in width more than it grows in length. Because of this, something made with a lot of the end grain exposed (like a countertop) is typically going to move more than the same thing made with long grain exposed.

I don't know for certain, but I suspect an end grain countertop might be problematic unless it was very thick. The end grain butcher blocks used in real butcher shops tend to be 12" or more thick, and aren't as long as a typical countertop. I believe the thickness adds stiffness and more glue joint surface, which helps keep things in place better. I know from experience that thin (say 5/8" thick) end grain cutting boards don't hold up very well due to movement. A 2" thick countertop might hold up, but I think if they were workable we'd see more of them around.

My parents had maple edge grain countertops in one of the houses I grew up in. Movement wasn't a big problem, but appearance eventually was. They were finished with mineral oil only, so they got a fresh coat from time to time. Still, the countertops eventually got stained and dinged up over the years, and I think my folks were glad to be done with them when they sold that house.
 
If it's all end grain, it's not mixed orientation. Mixed would be end grain and long grain on the same plane.

When a board moves due to humidity changes, it tends to swell in width more than it grows in length. Because of this, something made with a lot of the end grain exposed (like a countertop) is typically going to move more than the same thing made with long grain exposed...

True, but you'd still want the growth rings oriented the same way. Otherwise, some segments would be moving one direction while others would be moving perpendicular to that. Could lead to some interesting crack patterns...:eek:
 
Ive been watching this thread for a while and making a full end grain countertop is not realistic. Besides movement issues, the overhang would be weak. You would basically have to just set it on the cabinets without securing it because youve got know idea how or where the woods going to move. Also how would you make a 2' by 8' countertop out of little blocks and even attempt to get it level or flat?
 
Well thanks for all the input everyone. I showed this info to my friend and he changed his mind and will just make some end grain cutting boards.:woot:
 
The end grain butcher blocks used in real butcher shops tend to be 12" or more thick, and aren't as long as a typical countertop. I believe the thickness adds stiffness and more glue joint surface, which helps keep things in place better.

The other thing is in a butcher shop or any kitchen that a chef or butcher use. They use meat cleavers. A meat cleaver would have no problem splitting a 2" thick piece of wood. So there end grain blocks are thick :thumb:
 
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