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Thread: How to stain tips??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    How to stain tips??

    This may seem like a basic question but since I don't know I am going to ask. How do you guys/gals work the piece when staining?

    What I mean is do you do one side only, no ends (the thickness), then let that dry somewhat before flipping it over and doing the other side. Then do the ends later. Speaking of ends when doing a flat side are you just careful not to get any drips running down the ends.

    Or

    Do you do the whole thing and have some supports that you put the piece on that wont mess with the finish very much, what about awkward pieces (which is what I am dealing with now).

    Just wondering what folks do when they stain and what process they go about doing it. Hope that all made sense.

    Thanks
    Rise above the rest

  2. #2
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    Hey Aaron,
    I really hate waiting for stuff to dry before I flip it over for the next side. If you share with us exactly what you are staining, maybe we can suggest a method.

    If the stain is the wipe on, wipe off in ten minutes variety, then you can
    probably get by with some small supports to hold it up. If its slow drying oil (read BLO) you have to be more careful.

    Some folks shoot a bunch of small brads thru a board and place the piece on a carpet of nails. If the piece isn't too sensitive, I will place it on a couple of triangular pieces, so there's hardly any contact. If there are mortises, you can probably fashion something to hold them up that way. Be sure to tape off the tenons and anything that doesn't want a finish on it.

    If you have a piece with a part that doesn't show (e.g. the bottom of a leg) you can screw in an eyelet and hang the piece from the ceiling.

    I'll bet there's a way we can get yours stained in one pass
    Don't believe everything you think!

  3. #3
    Steve Clardy Guest
    Really depends on what it is.
    Cabinet boxes. I stain the whole box at once.
    I leave the backs off and stain seperate. No blow back in yer face when spraying.

  4. #4
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    Jesse I will try to post a picture tonight. I was just using some Watco Danish Oil, so it was wipe on let it set for 30 minutes, but I didn't have a good way to hold it to do the whole thing at once. I just held it in my hand and did the whole thing and set it on some scrap pieces of wood.

    I get the picture and you can see it because its an awkard piece.
    Rise above the rest

  5. #5
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    Dec 2006
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    I made a little "rig" with screws driven every 4 inches through a piece of plywood 24x24 to let stuff sit on so I can do the whole piece. Say for a top, I do the bottom side, flip it over and do the top side.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Hi Aaron;
    I'm glad you said you were using Watco. My processes change depending on what the application is.

    For Watco Danish Oil, I put on some latex gloves and just go at it with a brush, or a folded soft cloth. I put a couple layers of newspaper under the work, but make sure the newspaper does not come in contact with the wood. Althought I have several flavors, I use mostly Watco natural, so there are no pigments like Watco Walnut or Fruitwood,etc.

    I keep the piece wet, when an area soaks in a little, I keep applying the oil. I'll let it sit for a short while then, go wet it again. After 20-30 minutes, I'll wipe it down with a soft cloth. After that, I'll let it dry for a day or two. If I can use an unseen area, I rest it on small sticks. If not, I'll still set it on sticks, but with wax paper. Although I'm sure it's possible, but, in my opinion, a Watco Danish oil finish is difficult to do badly

    Sometimes Watco is the only finish, sometimes a semi gloss, or high gloss polyurithane goes on last. I'm anxious to try the poly-oil blend I keep hearing about.
    Good Luck, Mike

  7. #7
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    Here is the pick
    Rise above the rest

  8. #8
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    Hey Aaron,
    Great looking bread knife!

    If you are going to do more of these, you might try hanging the wet piece on a nail or a peg/dowel through the hole in the handle. If there is any mark from the nail, a little buffing will take it out.

    Or if you are adding the screws to hold the blade in after the finish, you could go ahead and drill your pilot holes and use those for a nail or screw.

    I'll bet those would sell like hotcakes at craft fairs!
    Don't believe everything you think!

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Cloud View Post
    Hey Aaron,
    Great looking bread knife!

    If you are going to do more of these, you might try hanging the wet piece on a nail or a peg/dowel through the hole in the handle. If there is any mark from the nail, a little buffing will take it out.

    Or if you are adding the screws to hold the blade in after the finish, you could go ahead and drill your pilot holes and use those for a nail or screw.

    I'll bet those would sell like hotcakes at craft fairs!
    I thought about the hole in the handle but I was staining it at the same time. The pilot holes are there for the screws so I could use those and that might be the best bet.

    Thanks for the compliments on the knife, it cuts the same size slice every time. I have applied one coat of Watco Danish Natural to it, have to decide if I need another coat. Think I need to put any type of poly-urethane on it?
    Rise above the rest

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Hey Aaron,
    I wouldn't put poly on it. I think it looks great with just the Watco. When it starts to dull a little, you can always rub in a little more Watco...
    Don't believe everything you think!

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