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Thread: prefered size of bandsaw blade?

  1. #1
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    prefered size of bandsaw blade?

    ok for your uses, on a 14" bandsaw, what size and teeth configuration is your two main go to sizes.. and i am not looking for resawing just the normal curve cutting and general use stuff..
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  2. #2
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    Generally, I use 3/16" 6 tooth or 1/4" 4 tooth blades on mine.

    I like 1/8" blades, but they only seem to come in 14 tooth, and I'd prefer something more like an 8 tooth one.

    A 3/16" blade will still cut thru a reasonably tight radius, though.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  3. #3
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    You can contact Louis Ittura - websearch - he is a bandsaw expert back east somewhere - he helped me with mine and prices are good and ships out fast
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  4. #4
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    3/8"X6 tpi is my 90% do almost everything blade.
    For tight curves the 1/8" or 1/4" are great.
    For milling I (currently) use a 3/4"X3 tpi blade but would prefer a 4 tpi.
    When my 12" riser is installed I'll use no more than a 1/2"X4 tpi for milling because of possible tensioning issues.
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  5. #5
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    I use a 1/2" x 3 tpi for 99% of my cuts, but most of my bandsaw's job is cutting turning blanks, and I'm willing to sacrifice turning radius for blade strength. I do have a 1/4" x 6 tpi and (I think) an 1/8" x 6 or 8 tpi for when I do want to cut cleaner, tighter curves. For the little bit of resawing I do, I use a 1/2" Woodslicer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Fusco View Post
    ...When my 12" riser is installed I'll use no more than a 1/2"X4 tpi for milling because of possible tensioning issues.
    What tensioning issues? I'm pretty certain a 3/4" blade needs the same tension regardless of its length. A longer blade may require a longer distance traveled by the tension adjustment mechanism, the the actual pounds of tension will ultimately be the same. If you're satisfied with the results from a 3/4" blade now, you most likely will still be happy with the same width on the taller saw.

    That said, I've never been real happy running a 3/4" blade on mine. I bought the 3/4" blade that Suffolk Woodworking recommended for resawing, but it didn't hold a candle to the 1/2" Woodslicer.
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  6. #6
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    What tensioning issues?

    Vaughn, there was a thread a while back on this issue. I had never considered there might be an issue.
    But, it seems, the extra length of the riser allows so much flex you cannot fully tension a 3/4" blade.
    I'll do a search for the thread at another time.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Fusco View Post
    What tensioning issues?

    Vaughn, there was a thread a while back on this issue. I had never considered there might be an issue.
    But, it seems, the extra length of the riser allows so much flex you cannot fully tension a 3/4" blade.
    I'll do a search for the thread at another time.
    I seem to recall seeing the thread, but I think the riser block flexing is a red herring. I can see the potential for the tensioning spring to not be stiff enough to properly tension a 3/4" blade, but not the riser block. My opinion, of course.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

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  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    I seem to recall seeing the thread, but I think the riser block flexing is a red herring. I can see the potential for the tensioning spring to not be stiff enough to properly tension a 3/4" blade, but not the riser block. My opinion, of course.
    I have the riser block on a 14" Grizzly. Tensioned a 3/4 blade with no problem at all. Took a 10 inch log down to 1" planking with no problem. Everyday use is still a 3/8 though

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