new sawstop

I got the milwaukee 5625 mounted today. I went a bit too deep on the countersink on the top of the plate, but everything fits perfect and everything is tight. I had to go purchase a 5/8 th bit to drill the T wrench hole in the plate.
I lost an inset leveling screw, took me over an hour to find it.
so all in all, a 30 minute task took me an entire day, but its a glorious day, 61 sunny degrees on Nov 22nd, no complaints about that.
 

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Does your motor cover open to the left though Vaugn? Mine opens to the right so it woudln't be a big deal to me either. But with a cover opening to the left, if I understood him correctly he couldn't shut the motor cover with the router installed. Looks like it's working fine now though :)
 
I'm not sure I'd have the nerve to cut up something brand new and expensive :eek::eek:
Nice solution and nice fix :thumb::thumb:

IT had nothing to do with nerve, it was just lack of skill that made me hesitate. My son sees no obstacles.(although he wasnt thrilled with the way the cuts came out either)
I was going to assemble it as per instructions, return the router table, and just figure out the router table stuff another time,I contacted alan B. (I warned him Id be calling if I ran into a problem and asked if it was ok on a saturday night to disturb him, hes a good guy)and he suggested I go ahead and mount right, so I did. I figured if he thought I could do it, what the hec.
Jeb-the 1.75 HP professional cabinet sawstop has the motor extending out from the left side. And then there is the motor door, to encase the entire thing for dust control.
I wanted to mount left, but it was impossible.
AFter mounting the router today, I ran through some grooves on stiles. I didnt continue because the tool guy gave me a collet adapter, but Id rather wait for the new 1/4 inch collet to run the bits I want.
It all works fine, and I like I can raise the router with that T handle.
The router table has 2 screw in hooks provided to hang the fence, but I used the hooks to hold the tablesaw cord so it doesnt get in the way when I move the table.

Im stopping the shop updating, so I can play with my prazi dovetail jig and get familiar with it again. I want to make some solid case furniture, figured its time to destroy some hardwood.(its nice to have the second router so I dont have to take one off and on table)Its all fun.
 
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getting the blade catridge out and in to replace with the dado set, was not as easy as I thought it would be. I guess you have to have great eyes, and non arthritic hands.Adjusting the catridge once in was simple enough.
 
getting the blade catridge out and in to replace with the dado set, was not as easy as I thought it would be. I guess you have to have great eyes, and non arthritic hands.Adjusting the catridge once in was simple enough.

Allen, the first few times I swapped cartridges it was awkward, but after a few more times I can now do it smoothly and with ease, just another new skill you need to learn :rolleyes::thumb:
 
on a very good positive note.
the adjustment wheels for up/down or bevel are extremely smooth and easy to use.
the blade itself is much easier to get off and on that my other 2 saws.
The arbor wrenches are big and heavy, as well as the arbor nut, thick so when I overtighten, theres no stripping of the nut or arbor.
The arbor on all TS should be made like this in my opinion.
dust collection is no longer a big issue since it seems the cabinet saw attached to the delta 50/760 is doing the right job.
Im still walking in sawdust because I havent attached any dustcollection to the attached router table.

Stu-getting the catridge back in and set for the regular blade went much quicker since I knew what I was feeling for and understood how it all went back in and adjusted. I wonder how long can a catridge sit in a box unused
and still work properly?
 
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