gilding project

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From stripping to prepping and sanding, sealing and coating with flat black to adding the red under coats [4] to applying the 23K gold leaf. I am tired of this table !:rofl: The mirror was a snap. Gilded over carved soap stone. But we had to strip the medal frame and soap stone. I painted the frame flat black also and applyed the red undercoat [4] times and gilded.
 

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It is a mind drainer. You need still air , no interruptions and a good amount of time, 6 hours at the minimum for each sit when applying the gold. I like the work , the quite and the satisfaction of the Big Smile when I deliver the work.
The problem with this job was the portion around the skirt of the table was all a paper applica which had to have malleable sealer coats.
 
Nice work Dave. Reminds me of the gilding I used to do on fire apparatus.

May I ask, why the red primer? What color sizing did you use, or clear?

Very nice burnish. I have a frame to do, someday but not nearly as elaborate as that one.

Real nice job. Thanks for the pix.

Aloha, Tony
 
More pic's and detail information on gilding process

Toni the red clay is called the Bowl or base coats. Red gives a brighter warmer look to the gold where as the ocher color tone adds a cooler look.

One of the processes I use is double gilding for ornate work. The 1st pic is loading the knife with a sheet of gold I pick it up in the middle of the sheet Pic 5 shows laying the sheet down and pic 6 is a line I placed on the material to be gilded.
Pic 2 shows the difference between a single sheet vs. double loading or double leaf gilding. Pic 3 is a small section of single leaf gilding and Pic 4 is a section of double leaf gilding.
By double leafing time is saved from having do cut more gold and lay over the 1st piece. This always the gilt to get into the recesses. Is also allows the tamping brush to remain free from picking up and sizing [glue / varnish] from getting on the tamping brush which would cause the gold to stick to the brush and create other problems.
Pick 7, tamping down the gold. At this point the gold is adhering to the sizing which is just about dry and at a point called tack. During the time of tamping the brush also becomes a mop and catches what is call the flacks and then the squeing is done which deposits the small flacks into the crevasses of the moldings. With the 1 sheet process this can not be done and thus you can not get 98% coverage.
 

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Don one thing I hat is when someone opens a door and they know I am gilding. Jarrod has learned to knock or look through the glass 1st LOL. One of the reasons I use the knife to transfer the gold is I can move faster then with a gilders tip.
 
Dave, This is beautiful work. Is gilding a small project something an amateur might be able to pull off without a huge investment in tools and materials? I'm thinking of adding gilding to some designer pepper mills and wondering if it's worth learning a new skill.
 
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Ted, It's not hard to do at all but can be very frustrating till ya get the hang of it. And to add you can get started with an inexpensive gilding kit that woodcraft seel for Less then $40. It won't be real gold but it will get you a feel for the process and not cost you the $$$ that real gold leaf will run.
 
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Ted you can use Imitation gold but you need to seal it. It's made up of 50/50 copper/brass. You will need a gilders knife I prefer the double sided knife, a gilders pad which is a flat pad with a fine piece of leather.
If you want Gold the Chinese gold is selling at $ 1.00 a sheet and European a little over $2.00 per sheet.
 
I'm done. I can delivery the gilded pieces tomorrow and if all is satisfied I will ask if I may hunt the farm for the afternoon. LOL
 

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