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Thread: Custom Molding Question - Order of Cuts

  1. #1
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    Custom Molding Question - Order of Cuts

    So I need to make some carpet reducer molding. Couldn't find any I liked locally, and decided I wanted the molding to match our cabinets, and since I've got a ton of maple already, I'm going to make some maple carpet reducers.

    This will cover the edges of the laminate and the new carpet we are getting next week will butt up against it.

    I'm thinking the order of cuts should be trimming the two top angles first, then the long cut under the modling, then the short cut to trim off the waste piece.

    I've got plenty of feather boards and will make sure the workpiece is contained and controlled for each cut.

    Just wanted to see if anybody had any comments on the order of the cuts.

    Thanks!



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails carpetreducer.jpg  

  2. #2
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    Well, Heading out to straighten things up so I can get going on this. Not looking forward to it since it's about 20 degrees out right now...

  3. #3
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    just make sure no one is standing behind you when you make cut 4. one way or another you could have a projectile on your hands....
    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

  4. #4
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    Looks like you have the plan.
    And like Dan said you could end up with a dart so set the dart board up
    If you make cut 4 with the save side to the fence that would take care of the dart problem.
    Or make you pieces 6 to 12 inches long and stop the cut that much short. Which would also help to prevent the piece from rolling in as it goes by the blade.
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  5. #5
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    I think I'd consider not doing cuts 3&4 on the table saw, Maybe clear away that material on a router table ?
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  6. #6
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    Oh and you might want to put your zero clearance plate in.
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  7. #7
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    Been working through the sequence in Sketchup a bit.

    If I do it the way I think, I would put the fence to the left of the blade for cuts 1 and 2 (The angled cuts).

    Cuts 3 and 4 would work pretty well I think if I do what chuck said and to make the pieces long and leave the last 6 inches intact.

    All cuts to be supported before the blade by feather boards on the outside.

    All cuts to have feather boards holding the piece down right before the blade.

  8. #8
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    here is a little something, a push block with a preventer. it's rough and nasty, but if it helps, so much the better. i figured that the final part being the full thickness of the board would prevent anything being shot backwards.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails push block with preventer.jpg  
    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

  9. #9
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    If it is me with my saw 1 and 2 the fence is on the right of the blade. Save wood to the fence wast dropping off under the blade. My blade tips away from the fence if the fence is on the right side.
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  10. #10
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    Your sequence is good. Make the final cut with the piece to be cut free next to the fence, and use a sacrificial push block that covers the whole end of the workpiece, to avoid the kickback others have mentioned. Featherboards on both side and top of the piece. The zero-clearance insert is also a very good idea.

    FWIW, that's exactly how I made mine when I put the laminate down in the wife's sewing studio.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

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