OK Ladies & Gents,
for those who make end grain cutting boards, are you a fan of wipe on oil, or soaking in a pan for applying mineral oil?
I'm about to gear up for a production run of boards... 10-15 or more.
Wipe on. (small production, single board)
Oil in a pan(letting it soak in... larger production... multiple boards)
Other... (Neither, let the customer do it!)
OK Ladies & Gents,
for those who make end grain cutting boards, are you a fan of wipe on oil, or soaking in a pan for applying mineral oil?
I'm about to gear up for a production run of boards... 10-15 or more.
Last edited by Ned Bulken; 11-26-2010 at 06:19 PM.
-Ned
I just pour it on thick.
"There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward
I mix mineral oil with a little paraffin wax to 'thicken' the mixture up, then put it into a squeeze bottle and lay it on thick and let it soak in. After it sits for a while, I mop up the any excess (usually isn't any) and buff it up a bit with a paper towel.
To make the oil/wax just heat up a pan of water, put a mason jar in the water, put a bottle of mineral oil and a chunk of paraffin. Let the paraffin melt and mix it up. Don't put too much paraffin, or else the mix gets too thick.
The paraffin just seems to help give it a bit more of a 'finish'.
If I only have one to do I use a baking sheet and slather it on thick and rub it in with a paper towel when it looks dry. I'll flip the board several times and recoat.
If I have several boards at once I'll cover the dinning room table with plastic and coat the boards as above.
I chose the "wipe on" method because that's what I've always done but I'm presently working on a run of 15 boards (staff xmas gifts) so I may explore the put them in a filled tub method.
Any recommendations on how long they should soak?
I use Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish from the Borg. It seems to wick into end grain and dries in the wood helping keep moisture from entering and harboring bacteria. After the Watco dries I rub in a mixture of Mahoney's Walnut oil finish and beeswax. Seems to work well on the boards we have been using for several years.
"There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward
If the walnut oil is refined, there shouldn't be any issues with allergies.
I can't say that's 100%, but it's what I've been told.
Don..I always tell whoever the board goes to what the finish is. There have been many discussions about the possibility of allergic reactions to the nut oil and the consensus is that the process it goes through destroys the proteins that cause allergic reactions. Mahoney's site says: "Mahoney's Fine Finishes are high-quality, non-toxic, and food-safe products…a woodturner's dream!"
Ted,
I have heard the same thing but if you haven't had an alergic reaction you just don't know. I choose to err on the side of caution.
"There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward