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Thread: Miter Slot issues - looking for guidance

  1. #1
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    Miter Slot issues - looking for guidance

    Hello All:

    I was reading the ongoing thread on cross cut sleds and was going to pile on there but decided to create a new thread.

    I have a Jet contractor saw with a problem. The miter slot is not a consistent width - it narrows at the back.

    I cannot make the runners wide enough for the front of the slot as it binds at the back. The binding occurs beyond the blade so I'm thinking that it could widen it without causing dramatic issues.

    I'm thinking that a machine shop would charge more than the saw is really worth to do a precision job.

    Any thoughts from the family?

    Cheers

    Jim

  2. #2
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    Sorry, I assume it's a cast iron top Jim? or aluminum?

    Are both slots on the table this way? It would help to know how much difference there is between the front and back of the slot. You may need to build a jig with a dial gauge attached to determine how much material needs to be removed. And if the whole slot is tapered or if it's just a burr towards the end causing the issue.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  3. #3
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    Jim, I can't help but to say I have the same saw and don't have the problem, have you contacted Jet ?
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  4. #4
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    Use a file and cut it out by hand. I bought a shaper with a similar issue. Didn't take long, and there probably isn't much material that needs to be removed.
    "Do, or do not. There is no try."
    -Yoda



  5. #5
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    Darren:

    It's a cast iron top. I'm 99% sure that the issue effects both slots.

    I will have to rig up a doo-hickey to measure the slots.

    Some sort of sled that will ride on the table top and up against the left side of the slot. The dial indicator can be tilted to measure the distance to the far side of the slot. A little trigonometry and voila, we can determine the difference in the slot widths.

    I don't have a straight edge accurate enough to measure the "straightness" of the side of the slot.

    Jim

  6. #6
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    Sounds like you've got the right idea. Karl's right, a little filing should take care of the issue, and the dial gauge will save you a lot of time finding the right spots to file and how much needs to be done.

    Can always start just filing, but it's hard to put it back if you take too much off.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  7. #7
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    I'm with Karl. Cast iron is pretty soft when it meets a file. The concern would be determining with side of the slot was the "most" correct and trying to make the other one match it more closely. In other words, the side of the slot that you aligned your blade to would become the "master". This must have been a major pain when you were trying to align your saw(?).
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  8. #8
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    Gosh, I thought ridgid was the only one that did that. Drives me crazy every time I try and do something. Still haven't figured out how to open up the granite.

    Probably should add, I have the guide sized to fit the narrow end. I just make sure I hold toward the blade.

  9. #9
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    Another approach than a file would be to make a hardwood runner just a bit undersized so you could wrap some 220 thru 400 wet or dry sandpaper around it, and abrade the tighter end of the slot. Cast iron will abrade pretty easily.

    Do you have a friend with a dial caliper to see just how much it tapers?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Southwood View Post
    Gosh, I thought ridgid was the only one that did that. Drives me crazy every time I try and do something. Still haven't figured out how to open up the granite.

    Probably should add, I have the guide sized to fit the narrow end. I just make sure I hold toward the blade.
    Did you call Ridgid on the problem?

    Probably could do the same with a diamond grit hone or something, but again, use a dial gauge to see where it needs to be honed at and how much needs to come off.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

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