About to try a pen.

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11
Location
Tennessee
I bought the HF 10" x 18" 5 speed 1/2hp mini lathe, an 8pc HSS set of lathe tools, a set of pen drills, a drill chuck on a #2MT for the tail stock, a pen mandrel for #2MT, some pen kits, some Bubinga pen blanks. I already have sharpening equipment, a band saw, drill press, sandpaper, finish, stain and glue. I am going to assemble the lathe and set up a workstation this weekend and test turn some scrap to get the feel for the process. I hope by Monday I'm ready try to make my first pen.

- anything essential that I forgot?
- was Bubinga a good choice for wood for a rookie to start turning?
- I saw other tools like a pen press but didn't want to purchase without more study. Is this a required tool? Any particular model or brand recommended?
- do I need reamers and end mill tool?
- am I being overly optimistic to think I might be able to learn this in a couple of days? I have not turned wood before, just metal.
 
I do think an End mill is pretty much a necessity. Kind of hard to get a good square fit without one.

The pen press can be homemade, or you can use a vise, or a drill press with a couple of stop blocks.

Pens are lots of fun to make, and more fun to use and give as gifts!

Of course, some of the guys who are really good managed to sell them as well!
 
Oh the other thing is to check your set of drill bits for the right size for the kits you bought. Just because you got a set of them does not mean you got the size you need for the kits you bought.:thumb:
I would also get the barrel trimmer. (end mill)
While you can trim them up on a sander it is way easier to do it with the tool for the job.
And they come in different sizes so again check the kits you got to get the right size trimmer.
 
You say you have glue. Is it CA glue? If not get some for gluing in the tubes.:thumb:
"am I being overly optimistic to think I might be able to learn this in a couple of days?"
I bet you'll have it figured out in a few hours:thumb::thumb:
 
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I'll toss in another vote for the end mill/blank trimmer. There are other ways to do it, but none as easy and accurate, as far as I know. The bubinga might be pretty challenging...it's hard and somewhat brittle (at least in my experience), but it finishes very nicely. Should make for a sweet-looking pen. The pen press is a "nice to have", but by no means a "must have". As Brent mentioned, there are a number of alternatives. I use a parallel clamp like a Bessey K-body. As Chuck mentioned, bushings are pretty much a must for most of us, although some folks do turn pens with just a set of calipers. To glue the tubes in the blank, I generally use epoxy, although others prefer to use either CA or Gorilla glue. I also agree with Chuck...you'll probably have the general hang of things after the first one or two. :thumb:
 
Another big vote for the end mill.
A pen press is very nice to have but not a necessity. It can come later if you get very serious about pen making.
What was said about the drill bit sizes is, unfortunately, very true. Pen kits often require some very weirdo bit sizes. The companies who sell kits like to sell other stuff too and to do that they design kits to require weirdo bit sizes available from them.
You have a drill press, your tail stock chuck is, IMHO, a second choice for drilling the blanks, I prefer the DP.
A selection of good sandpaper grits in a quality paper is very important. Get a sandpaper that does not leave dust and grit behind. e.g. old fashioned sandpaper. I use Klingspore Gold but really more often use and prefer Micro Mesh. The MM can come later (it 's expensive) if, again, you get serious about the pen thing.
Most important, go for it. Enjoy.
Pictures mandatory after first pen. ;)
 
Barrel trimmers are a must!!! and they must also be the correct size. Use a flat diamond hone to sharpen the cutter head. Some people use a vertical disc sander and have good results. Echo Chuck about the drill bits...7, 9, 10, 10.5, 12, 12.5, 23/64, 27/64, O and S are pretty common. A press is good, but you can use a wood vise or any other one with a smooth jaw surface. Bubinga is good as long as it's not cross-cut, those are a bit unstable for your first shot. Good luck and remember...if there are no pictures, it didn't happen:eek:
 
Thanks for the advice.

I have watched videos on U-tube. All makes more sense now.
Have ordered bushings and the pen mill set (barrel trimmer).
Ordered more slim style kits so I can try several alike before mixing it up.
I also have some Black Walnut and Red Bud that's dried, but not cut yet.

I got the lathe out of the box when I got home late last night. I have to say I was surprised at how nice this little HF lathe is. The castings are clean and machined nicely. Everything moves smoothly, adjusters clamp down tight, no slop. I would have rather had a 12" swing and a 1hp VS motor, but for $160 I feel like I done alright.

Will post pictures when I get set up and make my first pens. Probably next Monday or Tuesday before I have the bushings and pen mill.
 
This set of instructions will work for your slimline, they are compliments of Ernie at Beartoothwoods.com (excellent site for pen kits, parts, blanks, etc). His website has photography of blanks that are beyond words.

Another great site, one I use in my school shop and they provide money off of orders for our soldier pen project is Ryan, Beth and Fritz at Woodturningz.com in Indiana.

Alright the attached file isn't going to work for you as it is on my desktop. So go here:
http://www.beartoothwoods.com/catalog/faq.php
Scroll down to the 7 mm Eurostreamlined pen and open that instruction sheet. That will give you an opportunity to print this out on your computer, I have a three ring binder of all pen kits I have made so that I can refresh my memory on the least used ones. Let me know if this doesn't work for some reason.
 

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Michael,
I just use a ratchet bar clamp to assemble, and if you get into it, you're going to want to get a set of "dis-assembly" bars...I understand HF has the cheapest set. Watch the youtubes, and I got the Barry Gross book on pens for Christmas last yr, and found it very helpful to a guy basically struggling along alone.
I use gorilla glue because Im too lazy to mix epoxy and have pretty much stopped using CA for the tubes as some material reacts to it too quickly and bang.... shot tube and lost material.
Suggestion. Go to the lumber store and buy a couple of ft of maple and cut some blanks to make your 1st ones. Maple works well and finishes well and a whole lot cheaper than bubinga. Also start out on the slimlines as they seem to be the cheapest kits, and somewhat forgiving.
So be safe and give it a go.... it's NOT rocket science but does have certain tolerances to adhere to. There is an impressive knowledge pool and some very friendly, helpful people here. Post your stuff...get some feedback. Experiment..find a local turning club.. and above all.... start stashing your cash because this is one very addictive endeavor...:cool:
mj
 
I bought the HF 10" x 18" 5 speed 1/2hp mini lathe, an 8pc HSS set of lathe tools, a set of pen drills, a drill chuck on a #2MT for the tail stock, a pen mandrel for #2MT, some pen kits, some Bubinga pen blanks. I already have sharpening equipment, a band saw, drill press, sandpaper, finish, stain and glue. I am going to assemble the lathe and set up a workstation this weekend and test turn some scrap to get the feel for the process. I hope by Monday I'm ready try to make my first pen.

- anything essential that I forgot?
- was Bubinga a good choice for wood for a rookie to start turning?
- I saw other tools like a pen press but didn't want to purchase without more study. Is this a required tool? Any particular model or brand recommended?
- do I need reamers and end mill tool?
- am I being overly optimistic to think I might be able to learn this in a couple of days? I have not turned wood before, just metal.

It is about the easiest thing I have done in woodworking to make a basic slimline pen. Now the fancier pens require some artistic ability... But I love the look and feel of a straight slimline. I'd start with some cheaper wood but then thats just me.

Yes get the pen mill....

I see no need for the press unless you are turning dozens a day. I find the drill press works fine. I have tried all three glues, poly, super and epoxy..all work fine. Don't forget the water with poly and get some good super glue with an accelerator. Its cheap and I find it nice to have both fast and med super glue.

Enjoy...
Garry
 
Accelerator

A tip that would have saved me a bit of money:

Any super (CA glue) works better with accelerator. You can find it online and pay 5-6 bucks or you can simply get a mist bottle and use isopropal alcohol. Your typical every day, run of the mill rubbing alcohol. After some research, thats what accelerator was found to be.

I almost had a fit when I was reading the ingredients wondering why I was paying 5-6 bucks a bottle when I could get it for 80 cents at Walgreens.

The best way to know if you're using good accelerator is that the area of your glue will turn milky white in about 30 seconds after you hit it with the accelerator (alcohol).
 
Another question while waiting.

I have received the extra pen kits I had ordered, but the pen mill (barrel trimmer) was back ordered. I was in Franklin today and went by Woodcrafter thinking I might buy one from stock and cancel the back order. No luck. They were out of stock in the store now; they had some last Thursday.

While I was there I naturally had to buy something so the trip wasn't wasted. I got some sand paper rolls, assorted grits, and a bottle of CA glue.

I got my grinder set up and am ready to sharpen my lathe tools. And over the weekend I got the lathe set up. So, now i just wait I suppose.

I do have a another question. While watching various videos on turning I have seen people look like they are using CA glue for a finish. Is that done? Does CA make a good finish?
 
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