Another Router Table Question

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Got another question.

When the miter slot is located, how critical is it? Is there a set spacing from the center of the router bit?

Don't know if I ever plan to use a bought jig, but would hate to loose the opportunity.

Oh how did you cut the slot. Dado or router bit? I am thinking router.
 
Got another question.

When the miter slot is located, how critical is it? Is there a set spacing from the center of the router bit?

Don't know if I ever plan to use a bought jig, but would hate to loose the opportunity.

Oh how did you cut the slot. Dado or router bit? I am thinking router.

The critical distance is far enough away that the gage won't hit the bit!:thumb:

And figure that on the largest bit you ever plan on using with a miter guide...
 
Not sure abot proper spacing, but mine is set around 6" from the center of the hole. This gives me plenty of room for big bits. I cut mine with a router and straight edge.
 
I put the miter slot a couple of inches in front of the insert plate. I'm sure it will come in handy some day but I have yet to use it. :dunno:
I too put one on my old router table, never used it and it was a chip/small part collector, the new table in the wing of my table saw has no mitre slot, and I do not miss it. YMMV :wave:
 
the only time i miss not having one steve is when doing cope cuts on cab doors..you can slide along the fence but rather use a slot to do it.. helps on the recut if yu made it to long:)
 
I took my table featherboard and used that as my guide. Used my router to make the slot, as the table was already done.
 
the only time i miss not having one steve is when doing cope cuts on cab doors..you can slide along the fence but rather use a slot to do it.. helps on the recut if yu made it to long:)

Your fence has to always be exactly parallel to the slot then, I just make a coping sled, easy then. :dunno:
 
i have a coping sled that i use which rides along the fence but with a slot you dont need to have the base of the sled in the cutter..first time threw its fine but the second time it get tricky.likes to loose its refence point.
 
I bought the aluminum track at the wood show for mine, cut it in using the dado along with a couple of smaller hold-down tracks for feather boards. I don't think I've ever used it, but probably will if I'm doing end cuts in raised panel doors.
 
:threadjacked:
I'm going to have to do my router table top. Just checked it and the cold seems to have had an effect on the laminate top. Apparently the MDF and the laminate seems to contract at different rates and it was enough to break the bond of the contact cement....

And now back to the question at hand. Never had a slot and don't think I'll add one when I redo the top. I use an incra fence system and don't think I'd ever really need one.
 
I've not had my table long, but I have already used the slot several times. It accepts all the commercial feather boards and allows me to hold small stock tight to the fence.
 
had a duh moment when I posted this.

I measured my little Bosch cabinet, looks like 6 inches is the norm. Will go ahead and put it in, just to have it. Might come in handy to do box joints on the table or something like that.
 
I put mine the same distance from the center of the collet as my tablesaw blade is from the saw's miter slot. This way jigs can move from one to the other with minimal adjustment.
 
Yeah, same featherboards, same tenoning jig, I also have a support that I use when pieces overhand my sleds by enough to require support but, not enough to be out in space where a roller stand can help. It's just a board, thicknessed to match the sleds base, that I lock into the t-slot style miter track (Oh, yeah, I forgot to say "get the t-track style miter track, you'll be glad you did) as a support.
 
Absolutely it does. Mine is going to work with my drill press, since my miters on my saw aren't usable.
 
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