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Thread: Awl-grip

  1. #1
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    Awl-grip

    a product called Awl Grip ? I'll have to look it up. Is this a product for high end rubbed finishes ?
    My brother uses it for refinishing yachts and says he uses it on classic cars.

    Can this product be rubbed out ?
    Dose it look plastic ?

    Plastic looking finishes tell me the finishers likes short cuts LOL
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  2. #2
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    Jamestown Distributors has it. Thay say it's really good for above the waterline finishing of classic boats. A bit pricey at $47.00 a quart, but likely worth it if JD says it is.

    There's also Epifanes...
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  3. #3
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    I will check that out Jim. I know what is best for wood and what give the WOW to the customers I will need to get a qt to try out before on Veneers and hard wood's. I hate working with new products there is always the trail and era period, thou usually very short just adds one more to the list.

    I did find this description. From just reading this I see plastic !

    There are two types of Awlgrip products. The original Awlgrip is a true polyurethane made with polyester resins. This system when properly applied creates the most durable long lasting film finish in the marine environment yet can be tricky to repair.

    Awlcraft 2000 is a acrylic urethane created with acrylic resins. It is a great product which is easier to apply and repair but not quite as durable. Both products have excellent gloss and long term color holdout.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  4. #4
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    dave in all the fancy rides i have been in the wood does look like plastic, mirro finish and no pores showing at all..i dont think Henry Ford had that kind of finish in his cars but maybe
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  5. #5
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    Larry filling the pores is no problem with grain filler. I like the idea of a oil hand finish. like I put on my Curly Maple flint lock. That finished is 25 years old and has been used a lot. Hand rubbed 100% tong oil wil about 25 coats. I may have to find a quicker way of building the finish to be cost effective.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1526.JPG   IMG_1528.JPG  
    Last edited by Dave Hawksford; 12-28-2010 at 04:00 PM.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  6. #6
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    I think all the old 'woodies' likely used a version of what's now called SPAR varnish as their original finish. An oil finish just wouldn't hold up well on a car or boat. Even the best wooden boat 'bright' finishes (like Epifanes) require at least an annual re-do.

    From the sound of things, you're likely getting into the classic car restoration biz, where the emphasis is on ORIGINAL, so you may not even be able to use the modern stuff if it diminishes authenticity. I'm sure you'll fine out what's what as you delve deeper into this.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  7. #7
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    Quite posting pictures of the Curly flintlock, drives me nuts

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Southwood View Post
    Quite posting pictures of the Curly flintlock, drives me nuts
    you can relax steve it really isnt as purty as it shows in the pics......

    ITS WAY BETTER
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  9. #9
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    You're killing me

  10. #10
    I just re finished and painted the bottom of a 32 year old sailboat. It had only had one bottom paint job and that was from the factory. I sanded off all the old "Smurf" blue bottom paint and that opended the gell coat of the fiberglass. I was told that it had to sealed. I had thought about using an Ablative Copper infused bottom paint. Since I will only have the boat in salt water maybe a couple of weeks to a month. I reasoned that I really didn't need an anti fouling paint.

    I called a Yacht designer friend in Fl. and he recommended a paint called EasyPoxy from Petit, it is available from most marine supply houses.

    I bought a gallon and painted the bottom http://sports.webshots.com/photo/262...70055750hUkpTu

    I painted below the water line. Above the line I just buffed out the fiberglass.

    I also changed the mustard yellow color in the interior to white using the same paint.

    I am not a painter, I didn't spray it on, just roll and tip. It went on like cream best paint I have ever used. We put the boat into the Mississippi for 6 weeks and got no zebra muscles on it and only a mild coating of slime. It washed off with warm water and soap. I love this paint. It is about $90 per gallon.

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