Router Table or Shaper?

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129
Location
Contoocook, NH
Today I was at western tool looking at the benchdog tablesaw router extension whatever you call it. The extension plate and router will cost almost as much as the Jet 1.5hp shaper? Would there be a reason not to just go with the small shaper?

Thanks for any advice:dunno:
 
What kind of work will you be doing.

I just got a shaper myself. I have had a Router table for a long time.

Here is some good advice - pick up a copy of Lonnie Bird's The Shaper book.
It is a great book to learn about shapers and what to look for in them.

Here are some things I have learned.

If you buy a shaper the cutters can very very quickly out price the shaper by a huge margin.

Many small shapers have poor quality fences - factor that in mind.

The shaper really does not spin router bits fast enough due to their small diameter. That is why you buy the cutters. Many people do run router bits in shapers with adapters. The spindles are pricey though - $100-$160 for my shaper. Plus you need bushings and rub collars wich is more money.

Cutters will outlast router bits by a huge margin and most are easily shapened several times. (part of that cost I get).

Benefits of the shaper are power, interchangeable spindles, very low if any vibration, ability to swing very large profile cutters (5"-7")

Many people say you should also own a power feeder if you own a shaper. That can cost quite a bit as well. A decent 1 HP feeder can be $700-$1000 easily. Small ones are $280 and really not big enough for a shaper (I will let you know as I just got a small one).

Start with a router table you build, put your moeny into a good router and not the table as much (although that Benchdog table is really really nice according to many buyers). 1.5" MDF laminated is a very sturdy router table top - edge band it in oak like norm does and it will hold up for many many years of bumps and bangs.

Get a feel for the type of router table work you do and if you find yourself doing a lot of work and want the power and speed and stability of a shaper then move up to one.

I believe I will always have the need for a router table, the shaper is just icing in my hobby WW world.
 
I think Mike hit the nail on the head!

I have a homemade router table, it works great, for the amount of work I'm doing right now, it is fine. If I ever get to a higher production, I'd sure like a shaper.

Cheers!
 
Well I need to do a kitchen's worth of raised panel doors.
The small Jet shaper comes with the 1/2" and 1/4" adaptors for the router bits the small shaper can be had for about 699.00 no shipping. The bench dog I was looking at was the cast iron table saw extension. Dunno just tossing out ideas. I kinda figured if I could do both with one machine it would save space in my garage er shop.

  • Jet 1-1/2 HP Woodworking Shaper
  • Motor(TEFC) 1-1/2HP, IPh, 115/230V, Prewired 115V.
  • Spindle Speeds (RPM) 7,000 and 9,000 Reversing.
  • Table Size (Wx D/in.) 22-3/8 x 18-1/8.
  • Table T-Slot (In.) 3/8x3/4.
  • Table Opening Diameter (In.) 5-1/4 .
  • Insert Opening Diameter (In.) 1-5/8 and 3-1/4.
  • Fence Size (In.) 9-3/4x3-1/4.
  • Spindle Size (In.) 1/2 & 3/4.
  • Spindle Capacity (1/2)2-3/16.
  • Under Nut (In.) (3/4)2-3/16.
  • Router Bit Collet Size (In.) 1/4 and 1/2.
  • Spindle Travel (In.) 1-7/16.
  • Table Height (In.) 33-1/4.
  • Includes: 1/2" and 3/4" interchangeable spindles, 1/2" and 1/4" router bit collets, two table inserts, two starting pins, workpiece hold-downs, T-slot mitre gauge, micro-adjustable fence, one-piece heavy-duty closed stand, cutter guard, 4" dust port.
  • Overall Dimensions (WxDxH/in.) 23 x 25 x 40.
  • Net Weight (Lbs.) 190.


  • Features: Powerful 1-1/2HP totally enclosed fan cooled, reversing, single-phase motor. Extra large solid cast iron work surface. Heavy-duty one-piece steel stand with motor cover for stability. Handwheel and spindle lock for safe, accurate spindle height adjustments. Two reversible spindle speeds for Increased versatility. Independent left and right fences feature micro-adjustment and zero-clearance capabilities. Adjustable workpiece hold-downs mounted to fence. Spindle lock for quick and easy cutter removal.
 
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Only thing I can add to Mikes very good post is that I have a (1985) Mini Max T3 and it does not have an interchangeable spindle. Mine is a 3/4 bore fixed spindle. I wish that I had the option of changing spindles. The factory tells me that they can do the complete transition but the cost is way more than the shaper is worth X 4 :eek:
 
I do not have a shaper but have watched discussions for a long time now as I have been interested. It seems to me that a lot of shaper guys say not to spend your money on anything less than 3hp. Is this good information or not?
 
I am biased toward the shaper. Now that is out of the way I will add some observations.

You don't have to have a feeder. I don't and I am happy with my shaper. I don't even have a feeder on the want list. I may someday but I have my doubts. But it's not a have to have IMO, if it was you would need one on the router table too.

Another thing I think about is what happens when the router has to be replaced? Some last forever and some die a short death. But if you have to replace one, you probably have enough money in it to have bought a shaper. If you use it a lot, I doubt a router it going to have the life a shaper does.

This is personal preference but the mass of a metal shaper cabinet and cast iron top makes them smooth and more pleasurable to operate. It's like going from a contractors saw to a cabinet saw. No real difference in the cut but it's more pleasurable to use.

I have never priced this out but I understand a good quality router and table will put you close to decent shaper.

The huge factor for me, and this is personal. The shaper doesn't have a screaming universal motor. I really don't like using a router because of that one fact.

The only downside I see is cost of tooling, well initial cost could be higher, depending on the shaper your looking at. If you have a lot of router bit's that could be deciding factor. Shaper tooling is more expensive but there is a lot available on EBay too, thats where I got mine.

All that said, you have had some good answers on this subject from the previosu posters.
 
Shaper for the raised panels.
Routers for the rails and stiles, and other stuff.

I never raised a panel on a router and table. That always seemed like a pita way to do that kind of heavy work to me. I always thought that was a job for a shaper.
 
Hi Richard, :wave:
There is much good advice here from the fellows.
The power for raised panels is great as Steve mentions and likewise for other power needed applications.
If you are new to this woodworking it may be wise to start with less powerful machinery, nevertheless good stuff, quality tools, but learn how they can hurt you and what their versatility is. Move up as you find the existing tools are not good enough, accurite, powerful, easily serviced or whatever. You don't have to have the best to be the best.( but I'll bet it would help :D ) I agree in asking "what are you expecting to use it for"? Do you need it or do you just want it?
Shaz :)
 
Hi Richard,

I have had a couple shapers and a couple router tables. About 5-6 years ago I stopped using router tables altogether.

I have had a 5 hp shaper as well as the little Jet you are looking at. When I closed down my shop a couple years ago, I sold off the large shaper and kept the Jet. For furniture making it works great. I sling large custom cutters on it as well as "medium" sized router bits.

While I don't think I would try using it for the smaller router bits due to the speed, it does work nice for everything I have used it for. I do have a WoodRat for other work.

The compromise position if you could swing it cost wise would be both. The little Jet shaper and a homemade router table. Heck, I made one once for on-site work which I made out of a Jet table saw extension wing which was on close out from Woodcraft. Cut a hole, mounted a decent router plate and simply clamped it to a pair of saw horses. The fence was simply bolted at one end through the table as a pivot and the free end was used to position the fence and them clamped down.

Well, you can see I am partial to the shaper. I like them better. Just saying it may not be a question of one or the other, but both. Heck, you could use the shaper to help build a decent BenchDog type small router table.

Take care, Mike
 
Hi Richard,



I have had a 5 hp shaper as well as the little Jet you are looking at. When I closed down my shop a couple years ago, I sold off the large shaper and kept the Jet. For furniture making it works great. I sling large custom cutters on it as well as "medium" sized router bits.

I guess that answers my question as to whether 3hp was necessay for a good shaper. I have seen some guys saying that on the subject in the last year or so. Good to know information.
 
I guess that answers my question as to whether 3hp was necessay for a good shaper. I have seen some guys saying that on the subject in the last year or so. Good to know information.

Allen, I guarantee there will always be some guys telling you its just impossible to live with less than 3 hp on whatever tool you care to name :D :D :D

Getting back to the original question, shapers are very handy machines, I doubt I would try to cut raised panels with anything else (other than a hand plane). I even know a guy who cuts tenon cheeks with two 6" saw blades on a shaper :eek:

Router tables have their place too, but I can't see spending all that money on a mini-shaper when screwing a router to the under side of a piece of plywood will do the same job.

John
 
richard, shapers-n-routers both have a place in the shop....they compliment one another........the shaper is my "go-to" tool for most types of edge and end grain shaping.......i`ve found that for me it gives a much more consistant finished product.......and yup i`m in the 3hp minimum gang......you can take smaller bites with a big motor but taking bigger bite with a small motor can be dangerous and could kill the motor:eek: ......feeders remove the human error from the equation, no stop-n-start marks, warped boards are less of an issue `cause a feeder puts more downward pressure than featherboards......as you`ve been advised, try a good router motor in a home-built table.....use it for a while,(you`ll spend more on cutters for either the router or shaper than the machines cost!) try and visit a friend who owns and uses a shaper to see what they`re capable of producing......once you`ve got a few miles of profiling under your belt it`ll be much easier to make an informed decision on how to proceed.......tod
 
Those are very nice. I decided when I lost my old router table (last October) when I sold my TS (it was attached to the extension table) that I wanted to build a stand alone table this time. First I thought about a Norm style, then the LS Pro was on sale at Woodpecker. I then decided I wanted to build a router table/TS outfeed design. Here is what I have so far. I call it my RouterStop. Tried to get it to match the sawstop styling. I will make up a post with more details maybe tomorrow.

Get a lift and this setup is unreal for a router table use.

table1.jpg


fence2-1.jpg
 
mike,

that is slick looking. what is the table top made of. i have been trying to decide what to make my table top out of. so many options, just not sure what i wanna do yet.

i think you came very close to the sawstop style.

chris
 
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