Rasping to a Straight Line

glenn bradley

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Just sharing in case this helps someone or gives them a new idea. I have several rasps that I use for various curves and shaping tasks. I picked up one of these Shinto rasps for a project. It arrived after it would have come in handy but has been very handy since. I never thought about using a rasp to straighten something(?).

I used my jigsaw to cut out a template I need for something. One edge didn't turn out as straight as I would like. Blade was dull, swapped blades and the other three edges cut like buttah.

To correct the bad path I clamped the template into the vise with the errant edge in a position that would bring the corrected edge even with a piece of milled scrap.

rasp for squaring 002.jpg

I rest my hand on the scrap and move the scrap like a sled guiding the rasp evenly along the edge. This rasps away the high spot leaving me the nice crisp rectangle I am after.

rasp for squaring 003.jpgrasp for squaring 004.jpg
 
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would yu get that rasp again glenn been looking but havnt taken the plunge for one,, also some fine cut aurous as well..

It has a fine side and a coarse side and is pretty useful. I have seen the ones with the second handle on them that you use like a plane but I generally need to get into tight spots when rasping so I got the straight version.

The pricey French rasps are a beauty to behold but I don't know that the result outshines a Dragon rasp by over twice the price. The Auriou's do come with a handle though ;-) I have neither so please, ask an owner for a more valid opinion.
 
Thanks Glenn for sharing that tip. I am amazed to see the rasp actually trim up that particle board without ripping the back edge out. Did you keep the scrap sled tight up against the surface of the back so as to prevent tearout on that side as you pushed the rasp?

What about those metal rasps that look like the kitchen ginger rasp. Made of stainless and have little egdes pushed up. They pretty sharp things. I have an old hand me down Stanley like that for which i cannot get any new blade but it still can do its job but i remember when it was new way back when i was a teenager. It was the go to tool to fix up my messes.:D
 
Did you keep the scrap sled tight up against the surface of the back so as to prevent tearout on that side as you pushed the rasp?

No. This material is "throw-away" material that are used to seperate stacks of product in delivery trucks. It is like a low grace particle board. The diamond pattern on the Shinto (its like a lattice of hacksaw blades) took it out pretty clean surprisingly enough. On a fibrous material like red oak or ash you could certainly clamp a backer to the piece being worked.

What about those metal rasps that look like the kitchen ginger rasp.

I have one of those in the rougher Shur-form style that is great for drywall:rolleyes:. I recall Sam Maloof stating that he used similar tools for roughing out shapes but, I haven't used them for that purpose.
 
No. This material is "throw-away" material that are used to seperate stacks of product in delivery trucks. It is like a low grace particle board. The diamond pattern on the Shinto (its like a lattice of hacksaw blades) took it out pretty clean surprisingly enough. On a fibrous material like red oak or ash you could certainly clamp a backer to the piece being worked.



I have one of those in the rougher Shur-form style that is great for drywall:rolleyes:. I recall Sam Maloof stating that he used similar tools for roughing out shapes but, I haven't used them for that purpose.

I have several old rasps that were my Dads I also have the micro plane (looks like a kitchen tool). Sam used his a lot when I took the workshop. He said it was one of his favorite tools for shaping.
 
Glenn,

Since this is what happened to me and I have a brand new Shinto Rasp---I'll go try it. In fact I will leave this post open while I go try it.

Sorry. It took a few minutes. I had to joint a 2x4 scrap to the proper width to align with my straight line on the 3/4" Baltic Birch.
I used the "fine" side of the Shinto. It worked great. It worked fast. I got what I wanted.

Pics attached. Perhaps I should not do that. I did a fast Rube Goldberg setup. I did vary from Glenn, in that I put my reference plane in front of the target wood where he had his behind the target wood.

Enjoy,
JimB

If any questions, let me know.
 

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I have one also and it is my go to rasp. I use it a lot for rough shaping the necks on CBG's. The only down side I have found is it is a little thick for some tighter places and then I have to go back to a file. They are a great tool, in my opinion.

And thanks for posting the tip.
 
Dad and I have the 11". The 9" would serve a carver better where getting around the elephant's tusk and under his trunk is important :D
 
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