Rob Keeble
Member
- Messages
- 12,633
- Location
- GTA Ontario Canada
Ok so i have spent a whole week sorting out my planes. Yup believe it or not its taken a bunch of time. But i will post a separate post at a later stage.
I have one more day to go an would like to put at least this one to bed before i begin work again.
I have an old birch wooden Mathieson English plane handed down from my Dad.
This has a very thick what looks like hand forged plane that starts off think an gets to around 3/16 or more thick.
So i sharpen this thick blade, make sure to lap the bottom edge of the chipbreaker and lap the back of the plane blade etc. It has a wedge that is cut out in the middle and slides uniformly down the side of the plane blade.
I flattened the sole to ensure it was absolutely perfect because there was a little ding just before the cutting edge on the throat.
Ok so all set everything that can be done is done. Try to set it and boy what a tough job. Then i start to back off the chip breaker right back more than 1/2 inch from the edge. This is bevel down plane.
Ok now i am getting a cut but its still to thick. Beauty to cut across the full width of the blade,There is no room for the blade to drift side to side. But still i thought for the cutting angle and length these planes are smoothers so how to get them adjusted and what should i expect. I can run this plane and take a 1.25 inch wide shaving off a block of cherry for the full length but man you gotta get you hand behind it and its not excactly comfortable with the extended plane blade pressing into the top of your hand.
So those of you that have any ideas or know can you throw some light on how i might improve on what i am doing or is this just how these planes work. Oh just so you know my blade is scary sharp so there is no question as to how sharp the blade is.
I have one more day to go an would like to put at least this one to bed before i begin work again.
I have an old birch wooden Mathieson English plane handed down from my Dad.
This has a very thick what looks like hand forged plane that starts off think an gets to around 3/16 or more thick.
So i sharpen this thick blade, make sure to lap the bottom edge of the chipbreaker and lap the back of the plane blade etc. It has a wedge that is cut out in the middle and slides uniformly down the side of the plane blade.
I flattened the sole to ensure it was absolutely perfect because there was a little ding just before the cutting edge on the throat.
Ok so all set everything that can be done is done. Try to set it and boy what a tough job. Then i start to back off the chip breaker right back more than 1/2 inch from the edge. This is bevel down plane.
Ok now i am getting a cut but its still to thick. Beauty to cut across the full width of the blade,There is no room for the blade to drift side to side. But still i thought for the cutting angle and length these planes are smoothers so how to get them adjusted and what should i expect. I can run this plane and take a 1.25 inch wide shaving off a block of cherry for the full length but man you gotta get you hand behind it and its not excactly comfortable with the extended plane blade pressing into the top of your hand.
So those of you that have any ideas or know can you throw some light on how i might improve on what i am doing or is this just how these planes work. Oh just so you know my blade is scary sharp so there is no question as to how sharp the blade is.