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Removing Saw Guard-What do you think?

no guard camp here.......i do on occasion, if i remember, install the riving knife on the slider, but by and large no tablesaw guards...
 
Stuart Ablett said:
...so I redesigned it as a splitter with anti-kickback pawls....
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[size=+1]Interestingly, the Biesemeyer splitter probably saved my a** again just yesterday. I was cutting some 5/4 oak, and it had so much stress within that the kerf closed up and pinched the splitter so tightly that I couldn't push the board through.

I had to stop the saw, and drive a small wedge into the kerf to open it up and release the board from the splitter. I left the wedge in place, and finished the rip.

If the splitter hadn't been there, I have no doubt I'd have eaten/worn that board.[/size]
 
Jim DeLaney said:
Interestingly, the Biesemeyer splitter probably saved my a** again just yesterday. I was cutting some 5/4 oak, and it had so much stress within that the kerf closed up and pinched the splitter so tightly that I couldn't push the board through.

I had to stop the saw, and drive a small wedge into the kerf to open it up and release the board from the splitter. I left the wedge in place, and finished the rip.

If the splitter hadn't been there, I have no doubt I'd have eaten/worn that board.[/size]
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That's now happened to me four times in the two years since I installed the Micro Jig splitter -a great safety device!
 
Jesse Cloud said:
Thanks for starting this thread Allen. You sure touched a nerve:D

After sort of a rough start, I think we settled down to a thoughtful respectful discussion.

Good thread:thumb:
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Thanks Jesse!

I got a little concerned about the start myself. Thankfully cool heads prevailed and we kept it going. I am not part of the cool head group but thanks to those of you that are.
By keeping it going it gave me a lot to think about.
 
I just liked seeing photos of Allen's and Dan's shop :D

I had some table saw training & experience in high school. All those years later, I didn't use the guard or splitter on my 26 year old Craftsman. It was cumbersom, and could not see through the plastic very well.
I thought I should use it, but I justified not using it in my own mind.

Then a few years ago, I replaced the old saw with a General 650. After assembling everything to prove everything worked as it was suppoed to, I removed the guard/splitter.
As was said previously, check the clearance all around, make a dry runs with the blade down, use feather boards and push blocks, zero clearance inserts, etc. I've been fortunate so far.
Mostly, the guard is cumbersom. But.. I will re-install it and re-consider why I don't use it. It's not because of dust. I did my best trying to enclose the base.
I will also re-think this topic with other products currently on the market for safety.
Good Luck, Mike

PS: another thing that just occured to me is, unlike many woodworkers I've observed, I never pull the work back over the blade after the cut. I turn off the saw and sit there until everything stops. It's a time waister, but, oh well.
 
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My table saw is a low end Delta but it has plenty enough power to do serious damage if used improperly. Early on, I had a kick-back accident that put me down and nearly unconscious. Looking back, that accident may have saved me serious injuries down the line. I am far more focused on safety than prior to that experience. Having said that, I long ago removed the combo splitter/safety guard as it was causing more problems and potential for injury than without. My basic rule is 'if I think my fingers might be too close to the blade, they are'. Then I don't make the cut without options like push sticks. Actually, I have not tried making some items that required careful cutting, like tenons and dadoes because of the fear factor. And, I am not clever enough to design sliders, sleds and other such devices. Saturday, I made a pilgrimage to Grizzly and bought a new item they are carrying. A tenoning jig, item H7583. Small cuts will now be made but my fingers will be safely removed (removed? bad choice of word. :eek: , make that "away" ;) ) from the danger area.
 

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Jim DeLaney said:
[SIZE=+1]Interestingly, the Biesemeyer splitter probably saved my a** again just yesterday. I was cutting some 5/4 oak, and it had so much stress within that the kerf closed up and pinched the splitter so tightly that I couldn't push the board through.

I had to stop the saw, and drive a small wedge into the kerf to open it up and release the board from the splitter. I left the wedge in place, and finished the rip.

If the splitter hadn't been there, I have no doubt I'd have eaten/worn that board.[/SIZE]
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Jim, I have one word for you..............

.............. Bandsaw....................

:D

Cheers!
 
You pretty much have to count on the blade getting pinched when you're cutting solids - especially 2 in and thicker. I have to say that I don't think this will always lead to a kick-back - actually, I'm living proof that it does not ALWAYS lead to the worst case scenario. (I don't want to open the kickback issue here and hi-jack Allen's thread)

When ripping heavy stock in the shop we routinely had somone on the outfeed end of the table to tap wedges in as required and to clear the pieces from the saw after the cut. This wasn't very efficient manpower-wise, but we never ripped large quantities at once, so it made more sense than having an inline rip saw.

It also does nothing to help you if you're working alone, but it really takes a lot of the worry about kickbacks out of the job. If I had a willing adolescent or spouse around when ripping, I would recruit him/her to assist me.

This is just food for thought for those who don't have the benefit of a splitter/ riving knife on their saw - or choose not to use one.
 
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