Red Maple SW influenced HF

michael james

Member
Messages
312
Location
Abq, NM
After Vaughn's visit and I got the chuck to square up, I was anxious to try out what I thought I had absorbed in his teaching. Thanx again Vaughn :wave:

Wood courtesy of Jeff Nicol, 5" x 2 1/4". Walls are ~ 1/4 to 5/16 at the base, opening 1 1/8" Finish is shellac, BLO, more shellac and 3 coats of Formby's tung oil finish. I will buff it out in a few more days. After looking at the pics, I need to rub some oil under the collar so you can't see the line.

I really love the "seed pot" pottery forms, and have tried the ufo shapes, odd shapes, and this one is pretty much modeled after Vaughn's work, Steve S and the others that have refined this form so well. There is no arguing that this is my best piece by following their lead. Thank you!
mj

ps - This really is easier when your chuck runs true!:doh:
 

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Good stuff there, Michael. :thumb: You're well on your way. After you do a few of these, they get as easy as falling off a bicycle. :D

I typically hit the insides of my hollow forms with a coat or two of whatever oil finish I'm using. I don't buff it out, but it helps to make the inside color the same as the outside color.
 
Very nice Michael. The grain pattern on that wood is real neat the way you managed to get it to run.



Vaughn (i hope you check back here) but i was wondering how does not coating the inside with finish affect the aspect of moisture absorbtion and future consistency of the shape.

I am thinking here we are always hearing guys say when veneering to make sure to do both sides of the substrate that one is veneering. Does the finish on a bowl stop the drying out if its applied both sides like on a open bowl with double sided access? Would this form of Michaels go on to change shape due to inside being unfinished?
 
That is some really nice work and beautiful wood. I have a question about your finish. You applied oil over shellac, BLO and Tung Oil. Doesn't shellac dry to a hard finish? (I've never worked with shellac). If it does, what does the oil do? It can't soak in. As you can read, I don't know a lot about finishes.
 
That is some really nice work and beautiful wood. I have a question about your finish. You applied oil over shellac, BLO and Tung Oil. Doesn't shellac dry to a hard finish? (I've never worked with shellac). If it does, what does the oil do? It can't soak in. As you can read, I don't know a lot about finishes.

Thanks for the kind words!
Shellac can be used as a barrier coat, which should balance out the absorption rate. I did put some BLO on 1st but not a heavy coat - just enough to make it look wet.
I like shellac because it is compatible with everything else and easy to take back to the wood as opposed to wipe on poly. Once you get it the way you want it you can stay there or go with gloss lacquer, or poly or ??? I like the finish to be IN the wood, rather than ON the wood. I would make a finish decision on a case by case basis....but generally, I just like shellac. If you go that route use Z's seal coat or other dewaxed shellac, or if you mix your own make sure you skim the wax off. Also, the formby's is a tung oil finish, which is part tung oil and probably poly "somethings" to harden it, thus adding a more durable finish.
 
...Vaughn (i hope you check back here) but i was wondering how does not coating the inside with finish affect the aspect of moisture absorbtion and future consistency of the shape.

I am thinking here we are always hearing guys say when veneering to make sure to do both sides of the substrate that one is veneering. Does the finish on a bowl stop the drying out if its applied both sides like on a open bowl with double sided access? Would this form of Michaels go on to change shape due to inside being unfinished?

I'm not really sure, Rob. I've seen some discussions/debates about whether finishing the insides of hollow forms is beneficial, and I think it primarily depends on the type of wood, how dry it is, and how humid the room is. For the most part, though, I don't think an unfinished inside will cause any issues other than the tone of the wood won't match the outside.
 
Michael,
I really like your form... that is a beautiful shape piece and looks like you did an excellent job of turning and finishing...

I haven't tried shellac, after reading your post on the finish, think I might try it... I use lots of wipe on poly on most of my pieces, but I like the lustre you got with yours...:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
Nice work Brutha!! That form is rings a bell to me :rolleyes::rolleyes:. Good lookin' finish too...what else ya got?


Thanks Jim, just a little walnut potpourri, but we have a 3 day weekend coming up, so we'll see. To quote Ketih Richards on the rehashing of 12 bar blues: "the trick is to come up with something that sounds fresh"! I think the natural beauty of each piece of wood brings that to the game. I'm gonna try a few more of these..... longer, smaller, fatter, whatever until I get bored.:dunno:
 
Remember to that each chunk of wood is unique...and no...I don't think wood speaks to us...it's kinda dead! At the same time, if someone where to look at your book shelf and see all the same shapes...uggh! I just picked up a SW pottery form book someone recommended...lots of great ideas!!!
 
Remember to that each chunk of wood is unique...and no...I don't think wood speaks to us...it's kinda dead! At the same time, if someone where to look at your book shelf and see all the same shapes...uggh! I just picked up a SW pottery form book someone recommended...lots of great ideas!!!

I agree wholeheartedly. Im not making a career out of one shape for sure. But Im so new at this I want to develop a comfort level with basic shapes before I go to modifying them with contrasting wood, texture, burn, paint etc.
I also look at one of the pottery books and guarantee you will will get design suggestions to the Nth on some of them, even if you did that form dead on!
Hope you shook the flu...
mj
 
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