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Thread: Bandsaw Cabinet

  1. #1
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    Bandsaw Cabinet

    I am wanting to build a cabinet for my bandsaw to set on. Put a few drawers beneath to gain some more storage space. How study do you think I need to build it? Double top probably for sure. Think 3/4 ply, back, sides and bottom would support the weight?
    If you don't take pride in your work, life get's pretty boring.

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  2. #2
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    one thing to think about is to set the top pieces on top of the sides to get more strength and not rely on fasteners to hold it up the same thing goes for the bottom the sides should be settin on top of something strudy steve..yur band saw is gonna be around 2oo lbs right?
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  3. #3
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    i'd say do like i did steve. build one of the benches like i did, with 2x6's, then bolt the bandsaw to the top, then you have all the space underneath for drawers, and and if you go the full width, you have room for the accessories you'll need at hand.
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  4. #4
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    For my RAS, which is a heavy piece of iron, I'm just going with 3/4 ply for the side supports and a single ply top, with some 2x4 stiffeners underneath. The width of the cabinet is pretty close to the width of the saw base, so must of the weight is going directly down into the cabinet.

    But this cabinet will be fastened to the wall and another cabinet to the left of it.

    If it was going to be something 'mobile', I'd probably beef it up considerably...

  5. #5
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    that's why i suggested one of my benches. between the bandsaw, drill press, and sander, i've got about 500 lbs of tools on one mobile bench. it's wide enough of a footprint for good weight distribution, and i placed them at each end of the bench, so that the legs are supporting most of the weight. with good 4" casters under it, it moves so easy it isn't funny.
    benedictione omnes bene

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    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

  6. #6
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    Dan i do like your style of benches. Just not sure they will work in my shop. I don't have a pad out the door to move to and work. I need everything on it's own mobile stand so things can be shuffled as needed. Just ask Larry or Dave, they have witnessed the maze. (That is the wife's new name for my shop.)
    If you don't take pride in your work, life get's pretty boring.

    Rule of thumb is if you don’t know what tool to buy next, then you probably don’t need it yet.

  7. #7
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    We'll, from what I hear, the rolling flip top tables that are made out of just 3/4 ply are pretty sturdy. Not that a flip top would be good for a bandsaw, but as far as compression and shear strength goes, 3/4" ply has a lot going for it. It's primarily the joints and corners you have to worry about.

  8. #8
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    Hi Steve,

    Here is my set-up. It is all threeQ Baltic Birch. It is as stable as the rock of Gibralter.

    I made one big mistake. I thought I could put two wheels at the back and move it “wheelbarrow” style. Little ole me couldn’t even raise the front the thickness of a piece of paper---and those handles extend out two-feet for leverage. I should have used the Johnson Bar approach. If I ever need to move it, I will add the Johnson Bar (JB moves my lathe, my bench and my sanding center.) If you have questions on this, see my thread on my workbench or let me know and I will post pics.

    All of the drawers are full extension. The motor was placed at the rear instead of under the BS so I could have these drawers. The open space under the motor is still open for whatever. I will probably end up with more drawers opening towards the woodworker.

    My WorkSharp 3000 sits nicely under the BS table. The small three-drawer cabinet has the WS glass discs, abrasives, etc. It is too dark under there to use the see through disk. However, I have not used the see through so it does not matter.

    Overall I am more than pleased with the unit. It is the correct height for me, has a large table, is stable, has a pretty fair amount of storage space and my home made knee switch is very handy.

    The vertical panels sit on the bottom horizontal panel. The top sits on the vertical panels. The fastening is glue and pocket screws. You can see that there is a front to back vertical panel behind the drawers. This is for future drawer glides or whatever. It is another vertical support directly under the BS itself.

    The dowel "handles" that did not work because of insufficient leverage and small woodworker slide back out of the way into PVC pipes. It is probably a good idea for 100 pounds or less. However, I think all of my future mobile stuff will be using the Johnson Bar system. This is because it works so well and lets me have a completely stable bench, cabinet, etc. when not actually moving the unit.

    The finish is BLO and shellac. In the future I think I will skip the BLO.

    Enjoy,

    Jim
    Last edited by Jim C Bradley; 01-18-2011 at 04:03 AM. Reason: Because I thought of more
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  9. #9
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    May 2007
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    Mine is a 3/4" ply carcass, 3/4" top with 3/4" sides and back. The top rail is about 4" tall on the front for support. I rabbeted the edges of the top all the way around 1/4" for the sides and front rail to inset into. I've got the 12" delta BS, may not be as heavy as yours.
    Darren

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  10. #10
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    Mar 2010
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    Decatur, Alabama
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    I think a 3/4" top with some stretchers going side to side where the saw bolts down would be stronger than a double 3/4" top. Maybe 1x2 across with bolts going through them. If you really want it solid you can do a little torsion box on top.

    3/4" back is good, it will make it alot more ridgid. A faceframe and/or some horizontal boards side to side between drawers in the front will help stiffen the front up too.


    Jim: to make the unit easier to move, you can relocate the wheels to be closer to the center. At the actual CG of the cabinet, it would balance on the wheels. I'd go for about 3/4 back, somewhere around between the motor and saw. Of course if you dont' need to move it, it's probalby more trouble to move the wheels than its worth.

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