Bandsaw Cabinet

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I am wanting to build a cabinet for my bandsaw to set on. Put a few drawers beneath to gain some more storage space. How study do you think I need to build it? Double top probably for sure. Think 3/4 ply, back, sides and bottom would support the weight?
 
one thing to think about is to set the top pieces on top of the sides to get more strength and not rely on fasteners to hold it up the same thing goes for the bottom the sides should be settin on top of something strudy steve..yur band saw is gonna be around 2oo lbs right?
 
i'd say do like i did steve. build one of the benches like i did, with 2x6's, then bolt the bandsaw to the top, then you have all the space underneath for drawers, and and if you go the full width, you have room for the accessories you'll need at hand.
 
For my RAS, which is a heavy piece of iron, I'm just going with 3/4 ply for the side supports and a single ply top, with some 2x4 stiffeners underneath. The width of the cabinet is pretty close to the width of the saw base, so must of the weight is going directly down into the cabinet.

But this cabinet will be fastened to the wall and another cabinet to the left of it.

If it was going to be something 'mobile', I'd probably beef it up considerably...
 
that's why i suggested one of my benches. between the bandsaw, drill press, and sander, i've got about 500 lbs of tools on one mobile bench. it's wide enough of a footprint for good weight distribution, and i placed them at each end of the bench, so that the legs are supporting most of the weight. with good 4" casters under it, it moves so easy it isn't funny.
 
Dan i do like your style of benches. Just not sure they will work in my shop. I don't have a pad out the door to move to and work. I need everything on it's own mobile stand so things can be shuffled as needed. Just ask Larry or Dave, they have witnessed the maze. (That is the wife's new name for my shop.)
 
We'll, from what I hear, the rolling flip top tables that are made out of just 3/4 ply are pretty sturdy. Not that a flip top would be good for a bandsaw, but as far as compression and shear strength goes, 3/4" ply has a lot going for it. It's primarily the joints and corners you have to worry about.
 
Hi Steve,

Here is my set-up. It is all threeQ Baltic Birch. It is as stable as the rock of Gibralter.

I made one big mistake. I thought I could put two wheels at the back and move it “wheelbarrow” style. Little ole me couldn’t even raise the front the thickness of a piece of paper---and those handles extend out two-feet for leverage. I should have used the Johnson Bar approach. If I ever need to move it, I will add the Johnson Bar (JB moves my lathe, my bench and my sanding center.) If you have questions on this, see my thread on my workbench or let me know and I will post pics.

All of the drawers are full extension. The motor was placed at the rear instead of under the BS so I could have these drawers. The open space under the motor is still open for whatever. I will probably end up with more drawers opening towards the woodworker.

My WorkSharp 3000 sits nicely under the BS table. The small three-drawer cabinet has the WS glass discs, abrasives, etc. It is too dark under there to use the see through disk. However, I have not used the see through so it does not matter.

Overall I am more than pleased with the unit. It is the correct height for me, has a large table, is stable, has a pretty fair amount of storage space and my home made knee switch is very handy.

The vertical panels sit on the bottom horizontal panel. The top sits on the vertical panels. The fastening is glue and pocket screws. You can see that there is a front to back vertical panel behind the drawers. This is for future drawer glides or whatever. It is another vertical support directly under the BS itself.

The dowel "handles" that did not work because of insufficient leverage and small woodworker slide back out of the way into PVC pipes. It is probably a good idea for 100 pounds or less. However, I think all of my future mobile stuff will be using the Johnson Bar system. This is because it works so well and lets me have a completely stable bench, cabinet, etc. when not actually moving the unit.

The finish is BLO and shellac. In the future I think I will skip the BLO.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
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Mine is a 3/4" ply carcass, 3/4" top with 3/4" sides and back. The top rail is about 4" tall on the front for support. I rabbeted the edges of the top all the way around 1/4" for the sides and front rail to inset into. I've got the 12" delta BS, may not be as heavy as yours.
 
I think a 3/4" top with some stretchers going side to side where the saw bolts down would be stronger than a double 3/4" top. Maybe 1x2 across with bolts going through them. If you really want it solid you can do a little torsion box on top.

3/4" back is good, it will make it alot more ridgid. A faceframe and/or some horizontal boards side to side between drawers in the front will help stiffen the front up too.


Jim: to make the unit easier to move, you can relocate the wheels to be closer to the center. At the actual CG of the cabinet, it would balance on the wheels. I'd go for about 3/4 back, somewhere around between the motor and saw. Of course if you dont' need to move it, it's probalby more trouble to move the wheels than its worth.
 
This is the cabinet I built about 14 years ago for my delta when I bought it. Jim's got me re-thinking the space underneath and will probably be building drawers and making better use of the space for storage. Like I said, it's a 3/4" top, no other support other than the sides.
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JIM, another vote for rethinking,, i have a old atlas 12" that will get jims approach as well after i get a couple other things done.. jim whats that top yu have home made or purchased does the loss of cut depth affect yu much? i have got a extension table for mine now so i dont think i will be changing that area that way,, but i do like yur slots in there going both directions,, the one coming from the right allows for circle cuts right?
 
Steve from what I saw in your shop I would go to a granite shop and get a scrap or have a scrap piece cut to fit and set the saw on it which would be placed on the truck to move in and out. The weight will hold it in place while you use it. Unless your planning on bolting it to the platform then 3/4 ply will work fine.
 
steve, here are pics of how i've got my bandsaw, drill press, and spindle sander set up on thier work bench.
 

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Jeez - would you guys come to a consensus so I can steal the final answer!

Jim Bradley - What kind of light have you got stuck onto your bandsaw? It looks like an Ikea desk lamp I have (no insult intended). My Grizzly didn't come with a light and I miss it.

I'm thinking of building something along the size of what Darren Wright has built. I have limited tool parking space in the garage as we put 2 cars inside in the winter (especially when it snows - which seems to be weekly this January). That looks about the same size as the basic Grizzly stand which is flared out at the bottom a bit.

A mix of smaller and larger drawers to hold accessories and coiled blades instead of an open cabinet.

I'm trying to come up with a handle or something for the cart - I find my self reaching for the saw table to pull it by - which isn't a good idea. I catch myself and pull by the C-Frame (at the riser block) but having a good way to grab it and move it seems like a good idea.

Cheers

Jim
 
All of these great band saw cabinet ideas!
I have the Delta 28-276 (open frame with the motor hanging below the saw).
I'd like to move the motor and place it on top of a cabinet with the saw.
Is this doable?
Anybody actually done it?
 
All of these great band saw cabinet ideas!
I have the Delta 28-276 (open frame with the motor hanging below the saw).
I'd like to move the motor and place it on top of a cabinet with the saw.
Is this doable?
Anybody actually done it?

I'd think it's possible, but may have to mount it to the left hand side next to the saw. Like this one.
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Answers to Questions

Hi,

Larry, The top is one inch thick and it sits on top of the regular BS table. Therefore one-inch of cutting height is lost.

It is a Rockler BS top. I love the top size. I like the fence for general stuff.

One bad feature is that the slot in the top (to change the blade) is 90 degrees from the slot in the BS's metal table. Therefore, the Rockler top has to be removed and replaced each time the blade is changed. This is PIA No.1. Therefore number two, I don't change the blade unless I just plain can't get out of it.

PIA No. 2 applies to all three Rockler tops (router table, BS, DP) that I have. They all have the same problem...the miter and Tee Track slots are recessed from the plain of the table top. It is absolutely amazing how many things catch on that, almost microscopic, change in elevation. Not only do things catch, they really catch.

PIA is Pain In Acceptability.

I have removed all tracks and shimmed them to elevate them so the top is smooth.

Jim, The luminaire (thats electrical engineer talk for light fixture) is from Harbor Freight. Last I saw they were $11.95. They go on sale occasionally for about three bucks off. The base is magnetic. They have another model that is two or three dollars more that also has a clamp-on base and if you are careful, a stand alone base. The more expensive also has another joint in the "arm."

I have seen the identical $11.95 lamp in woodworking catalogs for $24.95.

A Johnson Bar setup would let you pull from a lower, much safer, position. Your body would be in a normal position. However, the pulling on the Band Saw would be from a low position.

It is not difficullt to pull a band saw over if you are not pulling from a low position. Many years ago I purchased the last of a run of optical instruments. These were only used in practices that straightened crossed eyes, worked with reading problems, etc. There was not a great demand so they phased the equipment out. The instrument cost several thousand dollars and I was thrilled to be able to get one.

I have helped several students through school to get their doc degrees. One of these young men was in the office one day. He pushed the new instrument, which was up on an adjustable table. He learned that the smallest thing on the floor can stop a caster but not the instrument you are pushing on. Net result was several thousand dollars worth of new, almost irreplaceable, scrap. PULL, DO NOT PUSH!

Darrens pic of the motor mounted behind the BS is the way I have it. It works fine.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
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