Another Box for Valentine's Day - Finished

glenn bradley

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Something gave me the fretwork bug so on this box I added a heart and bird pattern. Like the previous box the underside of the 3/4" lid is hogged out. I left this one a little rough and added to that by taking a gouge to it to add what will hopefully look like a carved surface. I'll show that once I cut this guy into two parts.

This top has a variation on the 'floating panel with overlay' I have become enamored with lately. The overlay is greater and nearly covers the frame. I showed so many steps in the previous thread I just skipped ahead to the keyed miters and will post a few more shots as it nears completion.

As with most of my small items, the inside and troublesome parts are pre-finished. The outer walls are not as I will beat on them a bit while installing the keys which will have to be planed flush. After that I run it across the tablesaw to seperate the top and bottom . . . then I scrape/sand and apply the final topcoat.
 

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Hi, Glenn that is a very nice looking box. I like the wood combo also. One ? if I may, I would like to know what saw blade that you use to cut the key slots? thank you bill
 
I would like to know what saw blade that you use to cut the key slots?

Welcome Bill . . . Flat Top Grind Freud Industrial 24tooth, thin kerf rip blade (LU87R010). The key slots are a rip cut and the jig acts as a backer so I get nice clean flat bottomed cuts ;-) For larger boxes I like an 1/8" key and so use a slot cutter on the router table for those. Dovetail keys are nice too but now I'm wandering . . .
 
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That came out looking great, Glenn. (No surprise there.)

So...how many Valentines have you got? I can only handle one. :rolleyes: :p
 
nice box sir.

How thick a piece of wood can you do scroll work on?(without struggling or problems)

I normally do 3/4" - 7/8" and this was part of my criteria in selecting a saw. The walnut in the top shown is a fat 1/4" and cuts like buttah. I have learned more than I ever thought I would know about scroll saws and still know only a fraction of what any serious scroller should know ;-)

The DW788 was the only saw under $500 that got consistently good reviews for long periods of use and use in thicker materials. I can say that with Mike Moorlach's help I have discovered just how much difference the proper blade and saw speed can make. Finding the right combination is akin to that first resawing you do after buying a quality blade for your bandsaw; it just sort of takes your breath away.

I had no intention of ever spending that kind of money on a scrollsaw but, you can get awful tired doing that thick fretwork by hand. DAMHIKT. Now that I have it I try to get my moneys worth by adding small details to pieces and making the occasional "pretty" items as gifts for friends.
 
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I normally do 3/4" - 7/8" and this was part of my criteria in selecting a saw. The walnut in the top shown is a fat 1/4" and cuts like buttah. I have learned more than I ever thought I would know about scroll saws and still know only a fraction of what any serious scroller should know ;-)

The DW788 was the only saw under $500 that got consistently good reviews for long periods of use and use in thicker materials. I can say that with Mike Moorlach's help I have discovered just how much difference the proper blade and saw speed can make. Finding the right combination is akin to that first resawing you do after buying a quality blade for your bandsaw; it just sort of takes your breath away.

I had no intention of ever spending that kind of money on a scrollsaw but, you can get awful tired doing that thick fretwork by hand. DAMHIKT. Now that I have it I try to get my moneys worth by adding small details to pieces and making the occasional "pretty" items as gifts for friends.

Glenn I went to Mike Moorlach's website and his stuff is spectacular. Who knew you could that with a scroll saw? But what exactly is "fretwork"? compared to other types of scrollsawing?
 
GBut what exactly is "fretwork"? compared to other types of scrollsawing?

Scrolling is around the outside, fretwork is the term for the interior cutouts (Someone feel free to correct me on this as I am a total amateur).

I got the miter keys cut and glued in:

box-bird-fret-top-miter-key.jpg

but, then I got distracted by the pull. In my ongoing quest to always try something new, I carved the pull. Maybe I should ask for some carving tools for my birthday as I did this with my only gouge an X-Acto knife and some thin strips of sandpaper :rofl:

box-bird-fret-top-carved-pu.jpg
 
After working the keys flush, I separate the top and bottom by cutting nearly through all the way around on the tablesaw. Then a razor knife finishes the cut and a flush saw removes the waste. I got a bit of burning as I made several passes trying to find the "almost there" depth. I had the general idea but the small measurements change as you are dressing in the keys.

box-bird-fret-seperated-1.jpg


Here's the underside of the top where I scalloped it out. I worked the edges of the relief to try to get a carved look (goes with the pull).

box-bird-fret-seperated-2.jpg

I am waffling on the material to make the inset compartment out of; padouk or more walnut would make a bold statement but, an insert of cherry would blend and be more subtle. Jury is still out. I'll ponder it.

box-bird-fret-seperated-3.jpg
 
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

My vote would be for a cherry inset compartment. I just think it would fit with the theme better and let the top be the centerpiece.
 
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