Dan Mosley
Member
- Messages
- 1,169
- Location
- Palm Springs, Ca
This is kind of a beaten topic I understand but I like to see what others do in terms of turning and drying their projects.
First up is the question on whether you turn to completion - let dry and then sand and finish or
Do you rough turn - say leaving 3/4" or so and let dry and then retrun the pc on the lathe.
For me I turn to completion - then i either put them in brown paper bags for 2-3 days and then put out in the open inside the house and let dry for a couple weeks or so. Then on to sanding and finishing.................
or I may soak the turning in blo/varnish/MS mixture for a couple days and then take out and dry off well - place in the house in the open and let dry for a couple weeks or so. Then on to sanding and finishing......
I just got in some Waterlox tung oil and I really like using it over alot of other types of finishes. You can rub in a couple coats or several - let dry and it buffs up really nicely.
Pictures 1-2 are a unfinished large Walnut vase that cracked - been dragging my feet on the completion because I do not like the filled crack and have not thought of what to do with it yet...................................Thoughts anyone?
Pictures 3-6 maple vase - Paperbaged for a couple days and then inside to dry for a couple weeks. Rotten spot filled with CA glue and black dust and sanded. Then, 2 coats of Waterlox over the last few days and now drying for a couple weeks. Then ill either buff it or try out my new Shellawax on it.
Picture 7 - is a small Walnut vessel just pulled out of soak and sitting inside drying. I do not see any warping yet and it will still need to be sanded down when its dry.
Picture 8 - was a small Tulip wood vessel that has been sanded thru 800grit, has 2 coats of waterlox on and is drying. Then I will buff the finish on this one.
Picture 9 - Completed Walnut vase - sanded thru 800 grit, 2 coats of Danish oil on it, several coats of spray laquer and sanded with 1000grit in between - Then Renissance wax on top and hand buffed.
First up is the question on whether you turn to completion - let dry and then sand and finish or
Do you rough turn - say leaving 3/4" or so and let dry and then retrun the pc on the lathe.
For me I turn to completion - then i either put them in brown paper bags for 2-3 days and then put out in the open inside the house and let dry for a couple weeks or so. Then on to sanding and finishing.................
or I may soak the turning in blo/varnish/MS mixture for a couple days and then take out and dry off well - place in the house in the open and let dry for a couple weeks or so. Then on to sanding and finishing......
I just got in some Waterlox tung oil and I really like using it over alot of other types of finishes. You can rub in a couple coats or several - let dry and it buffs up really nicely.
Pictures 1-2 are a unfinished large Walnut vase that cracked - been dragging my feet on the completion because I do not like the filled crack and have not thought of what to do with it yet...................................Thoughts anyone?
Pictures 3-6 maple vase - Paperbaged for a couple days and then inside to dry for a couple weeks. Rotten spot filled with CA glue and black dust and sanded. Then, 2 coats of Waterlox over the last few days and now drying for a couple weeks. Then ill either buff it or try out my new Shellawax on it.
Picture 7 - is a small Walnut vessel just pulled out of soak and sitting inside drying. I do not see any warping yet and it will still need to be sanded down when its dry.
Picture 8 - was a small Tulip wood vessel that has been sanded thru 800grit, has 2 coats of waterlox on and is drying. Then I will buff the finish on this one.
Picture 9 - Completed Walnut vase - sanded thru 800 grit, 2 coats of Danish oil on it, several coats of spray laquer and sanded with 1000grit in between - Then Renissance wax on top and hand buffed.
Attachments
Last edited: