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Thread: tenoning jig problem

  1. #1
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    tenoning jig problem

    Here I go again, braggin' on what I don't know.
    Somehow, I thought the miter gage slot in table saws, and other WW equipment was a standard size. As mentioned in another topic, I just purchased a new Grizzly tenoning jig. Looks like a well designed and made piece of equipment. Problem: it's slider is too big for the slot on my Delta table saw. They aren't all the same. At first study, I can't figure out how to remove it. If it comes off, I'm divided between making a replacement from Osage Orange or having my machinist friend make one from steel.

  2. #2
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    Might be worth a call to Grizzly to see if they carry a different sized slider, seems like it would make sense for them to do that.

    Or, maybe this is a good reason to upgrade that saw.
    Don't believe everything you think!

  3. #3
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    Yep! Time for a new saw Frank.

    I have that jig and it works really great. I hope that you can make it work with your saw as you are going to like it. Once set up you can cut tenons faster than you can turn around.

    Allen

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allen Bookout View Post
    Yep! Time for a new saw Frank.

    I have that jig and it works really great. I hope that you can make it work with your saw as you are going to like it. Once set up you can cut tenons faster than you can turn around.

    Allen
    Jess and Allen, a new saw is on the want list but a pretty distant second to a new lathe.

  5. #5
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    This is a puzzle Frank. I have the Delta jig. Both the Delta and Grizzly sites show the mitre bar as 3/4" x 3/8" and the Delta jig fits the 3/4" slot in my Gen Int. saw just fine. Have you put a vernier caliper into the groove on your saw or across the bar to check that it's wide/narrow enough? Reason I ask .... the grooves on my GI were milled too wide so all my mitres and jigs are sloppy loose in the groove and I'm picking up the new replacement table tomorrow. Maybe your mitre grooves are milled too narrow or the bar is too wide? If the bar is too wide, it should be a warranty repair?

    just a thought

    cheers eh?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Bartley View Post
    This is a puzzle Frank. I have the Delta jig. Both the Delta and Grizzly sites show the mitre bar as 3/4" x 3/8" and the Delta jig fits the 3/4" slot in my Gen Int. saw just fine. Have you put a vernier caliper into the groove on your saw or across the bar to check that it's wide/narrow enough? Reason I ask .... the grooves on my GI were milled too wide so all my mitres and jigs are sloppy loose in the groove and I'm picking up the new replacement table tomorrow. Maybe your mitre grooves are milled too narrow or the bar is too wide? If the bar is too wide, it should be a warranty repair?

    just a thought

    cheers eh?

    The Griz bar is definately too wide for the track. The track is grooved inside also. But if I make a replacement it will ride along the grooves. I haven't measured the size difference but eyeballing it is about 1/8" oversize.

  7. #7
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    My thought is to make a wood replacement or have your friend machine a metal one & keep the original because it may fit the new saw that you get in the future.
    "Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
    "If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Fusco View Post
    At first study, I can't figure out how to remove it. If it comes off, I'm divided between making a replacement from Osage Orange or having my machinist friend make one from steel.
    Frank,

    I did not read your first post good enough to notice this statement but that bar comes off with a couple of screws. If you read the instructional manual about converting it from a right tilt to a left tilt setup you have to move the bar and it shows you how it comes off.

    One option in lue of making a new bar that I have been thinking about is to have a machinist widen the miter slot in your table top. That way any additional things that you might need that require the slot would fit. I do not know if you have machine shops around there that have the equipment to do that or not and I suspect that it could be a bit expensive but maybe not as bad as I think. Just a thought, maybe not a good thought, but a thought none the less.

    Allen

  9. #9
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    I just had another thought and am reposting just in case you already read the above one. Since your slots are not a standard size, according to some of our saws, I wounder if they are a standard distance from the blade. They would have to be close for that jig to work properly. For a left tilt the left slot is 5 1/2' from the blade and the right slot is 4 1/4" from the blade. If yours is a right tilt I suppose that the figures would be reversed but to be safe would need a measurement from someone with a right tilt saw or a dealer.

  10. #10
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    I haven' taken time to study the manual yet, it was shiverin' cold in the shop yesterday. Strange as it was nice out. But I was in a mood and was almost reaching for the big hammer. Enneyhow, the slots are proper (standard) distance. To get them milled out would cost more than the whole saw is worth. Sometimes my genius attributes show up after the fact. This time, just in time. Last week I purchased 20' of 1" round UHMW rod. This will be shared with a friend and turned into styluses (styli ?) for use with my Terrco duplicator. I have more than I'll ever use. This stuff is tougher than an executioners conscience. And I can work it, unlike metal. I'll make a slide for this saw and, of course, keep the original when I upgrade. Will post results. Thanks y'all for the ideas.

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