Chris Hatfield
Former Member (by the member's request)
- Messages
- 380
I'm at the point in my hobby that along with making my workspace more efficient, I'm looking for better results. I'm very excited to be at this stage. One point of confusion I have is selecting the right blade for the job.
I have a Hitachi C10FCE2 miter saw, a 10" non-slider compound miter saw. Along with that I use my Craftsman 21829 10" table saw a lot. For blade selection, I have the following:
The stock chinese blade for both the MS and the TS - the table saw is a 40T, and I don't use it unless I'm cutting pine. The tooth count on the MS is 24T. For dadoes, I rock an Oshlun 6" stack. The rest of my collection is Freud: D1060X 60T Fine Finish, which I've been using exclusively in the table saw for every cut. I was given a 40T (D1040A, I 'think' - still in package), and a 24T (D1024X) for Christmas.
Now, I've read the generic guides I've seen and I'm still confused. Other than to extend the life of the blade, is there any reason to take the 60T out of the TS? Should I replace the MS blade with the 24T Freud? Any advice would be appreciated.
I have a Hitachi C10FCE2 miter saw, a 10" non-slider compound miter saw. Along with that I use my Craftsman 21829 10" table saw a lot. For blade selection, I have the following:
The stock chinese blade for both the MS and the TS - the table saw is a 40T, and I don't use it unless I'm cutting pine. The tooth count on the MS is 24T. For dadoes, I rock an Oshlun 6" stack. The rest of my collection is Freud: D1060X 60T Fine Finish, which I've been using exclusively in the table saw for every cut. I was given a 40T (D1040A, I 'think' - still in package), and a 24T (D1024X) for Christmas.
Now, I've read the generic guides I've seen and I'm still confused. Other than to extend the life of the blade, is there any reason to take the 60T out of the TS? Should I replace the MS blade with the 24T Freud? Any advice would be appreciated.