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Thread: Thoughts on a cabinet

  1. #1
    Chris Hatfield is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Thoughts on a cabinet

    I'm making a cabinet with a miter saw wing, but the wing isn't important in the overall discussion. I've cut the pieces, but have not assembled it yet and I am trying to figure out items related to the eventual drawers.

    The sides were cut 24" wide and 36" tall. The cabinet height will either be 36" or 36.25" tall, and will have a face frame. I was probably going to use the Blum 3/4 epoxy slides as shown here, and the technical sheet shown here. I'm confused as to which one I need, and if the back panel needs to be more robust than 1/4" ply.

    The cabinet will not be secured to the wall, and the depth could be adjusted down from the 24". That figure, BTW, doesn't include the face frame.

    I won't be buying the slides tomorrow, but I do want to get it assembled and start being usable so final dimensions and technique needs to be buttoned down. Any insight you could provide would help.

  2. #2
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    I've never used those slides, but I'm fairly certain they work like all the ones I have used before.

    You can use up to 24" slide if you have 24" ply on the sides of the cabinets and the back isn't dado'd into the back. You need clearance from the front of the faceframe to the inside of the back panel equal to the minimum cabinet depth listed on the technical sheet.


    In european cabinets, the slides mount directly to the side. For faceframe cabinets, you can screw the front to the faceframe and buy a socket for the back of the slide that screws to the back of the cabinet. A cheaper and sturdier option is to screw a spacer into the side of the cabinet that is even with the inside edge of the faceframe, and screw the slide to that. Time consuming but cheap/sturdy.

  3. #3
    Chris Hatfield is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Thanks for that. The cabinet build in WOOD clarified it as well, I need the 22".

    So to do that, at cheapest, it would be $11 a drawer. I'm probably looking at six drawers, and that might be cost prohibitive. Even using single dovetail slides would be $9 a drawer.

  4. #4
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    See if you can find a local cabinet supply shop that sells retail. I pay about $6.50 for a pair of 100 lb bearing full extension slides. The regular kitchen cabinet roller slides similar to that blum are $1-2. blum is a name brand, and rockler is not a cheap store to buy hardware from.

    You can also just use wood with either wax or some UHMW pads for slides to save money. Might also be able to make some that can be retrofitted later with rollers. You can probalby make some wooden bars to make the slides. It's more time consuming, but should be a good learning experience. There's an article on finewoodworking, anatomy of a table if you have the online version. If not, try and look at some old shaker style cabinets, or any old style cabinet drawer. End table, dresser, they all had pretty much the same wooden slide drawers in them.
    Last edited by Jeb Taylor; 02-20-2011 at 02:28 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeb Taylor View Post
    I've never used those slides, but I'm fairly certain they work like all the ones I have used before.

    You can use up to 24" slide if you have 24" ply on the sides of the cabinets and the back isn't dado'd into the back. You need clearance from the front of the faceframe to the inside of the back panel equal to the minimum cabinet depth listed on the technical sheet.


    In european cabinets, the slides mount directly to the side. For faceframe cabinets, you can screw the front to the faceframe and buy a socket for the back of the slide that screws to the back of the cabinet. A cheaper and sturdier option is to screw a spacer into the side of the cabinet that is even with the inside edge of the faceframe, and screw the slide to that. Time consuming but cheap/sturdy.
    What he said....

  6. #6
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    Woodworkers hardware. Ball Bearing, 22" full Extension 100# slides, 5.59 per pair.

    http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/Pr.../KVTT100%20B22

  7. #7
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    KV1805 T22 WH White 21-5/8"


    $2.46 at that woodworkers hardware, looks like the same type slide as the blum you were looking at. Thanks for that link brent, I hadn't seen that place before. My local store, Byco Plastics, only has a limited selection, even if the prices are pretty good.

  8. #8
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    I just recently ordered a bunch of those slides and some hinges from them. Very happy with the slides, the price, and the shipping was fast and reasonable as well...

  9. #9
    Chris Hatfield is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeb Taylor View Post
    See if you can find a local cabinet supply shop that sells retail. I pay about $6.50 for a pair of 100 lb bearing full extension slides. The regular kitchen cabinet roller slides similar to that blum are $1-2. blum is a name brand, and rockler is not a cheap store to buy hardware from.

    You can also just use wood with either wax or some UHMW pads for slides to save money. Might also be able to make some that can be retrofitted later with rollers. You can probalby make some wooden bars to make the slides. It's more time consuming, but should be a good learning experience. There's an article on finewoodworking, anatomy of a table if you have the online version. If not, try and look at some old shaker style cabinets, or any old style cabinet drawer. End table, dresser, they all had pretty much the same wooden slide drawers in them.
    I would probably prefer to put dados in and not use hardware, but I don't have access to a large amount of hardwood. I don't know how well plywood would slide on plywood even with wax or UHMW (I have some tape).

    I certainly don't mind using the super cheap $1-$2 slides, if I can find them. My additional cost was from factoring in the mounts which were $4 a set.

    I suppose the other option I have is to make shelves and fit the drawers to sit on the shelves and slide on the tape. That might be the easiest and cheapest option. Just have to use a bit more 3/4" ply and make the shelves and a center divider.

  10. #10
    Chris Hatfield is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Upon further reflection, I think I do have a bit of poplar left over from a rail and stile project. Would that work, dados on both the drawer and cabinet, with a strip of poplar in the cabinet?

    I do have some maple and purpleheart, but I was hoping to hold on to those.

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