Anyone use a glue other that Titebond for segmented blanks?

Seems like there should be a glue out there that sets up faster that Titebond, so I don't have to sit there holding those pieces together, while they bond....no?

Sue,
You can use a CA for the segments it will be faster setting than the titebond, but I'm not sure if it will hold through the stresses of turning...

I was watching a video last night in which the turner, and I'm sorry but I don't remember his name just now... will look for it and post later as we have to leave in few minutes for Dr. appointment.... he used the original Titebond and when he did his glue up, he put glue on both pieces, rubbed them together and then set them aside for a few minutes... he said it would set in just a few minutes for handling.. he did allow it to sit overnight before attempting to turn.
 
Sue, in my school shop and at home I use Elmer's wood glue. I glue up a bunch of segments at a time. Somedays I am in the creative mood and just enjoy cutting and putting them together. I glue both pieces and use masking tape as a portable vise. Set them aside and when the notion strikes another day, I will turn them. Sorry, no immediate satisfaction with my system for you.
 
CA glue will not hold up as it is to brittle. I use Titebond III on the few I have did and sometimes it is to fast when getting things aligned and clamped. A friend of mine tried CA glue on a segmented piece and it exploded while turning. Even using Titebond I will let it set 24 hrs at a minimum.
 
I find with titebond III I only have to hold the parts in place for a few minutes. :thumb: And blue painters masking tape is my friend.:thumb:
I would not put any glue up on the lathe for at least 24 hours.
 
Years ago I read an article, actually a question that someone had asked in Fine Woodworking magazine I believe about a glue welder for the home workshop. I don't remember who answered the question but the jist of the answer was that a small glue welder would cost in the $60,000 range. He then went on to explain what it was and what it was for. Basically he explained that they were used in mass produced furniture factories primarily. Pieces would have the glue applied then assembled and then the welder was passed over the items. It kicked the glue right off. How it works is that it is basically a microwave device that when passed over the piece the molecules of glue are hyper activated by the microwaves and the glue sets. I think that is how it worked. Any way I wanted to try this but without spending $60,000. I did have a microwave that I keep in the shop and use for other purposes. At that time I was using a lot of UF 109 glue so I thought I would try it. I mixed some up and smeared it on a couple of small blocks,taped them together set the power level to around 4 and gave it a minute or so. I don't remember the exact power level or time set, you would have to experiment with it. It would probably have something to do with the mass of the object. Anyway it worked, kicked it right off. I know that I glued up another block later on that I turned on the lathe and it didn't fly apart. I tried this on a pva type glue as well and seem to remember that it either didn't work or not as well. I should try it on Titebond III as it seems to have similar properties to as UF109. I just haven't been in that big of a hurry to have things glued up anymore.
I'm not recommending this as something to do but it is an avenue to explore. You're also not going to be able to glue up huge blocks and don't walk away and leave the microwave blasting along on a high setting. I recently showed a friend how to bend small pieces of wood using a microwave and he went home, put his piece in the kitchen microwave, didn't soak it turned the power to 10, time to 5 minutes and went out to his shop. He came back in after 2 or three minutes to a kitchen full of smoke. He was lucky, he just didn't use his head.
 
I realize Vaughn that Titebond is a pva glue but it seems to have some of the properties of the urea glues. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens.

Here is a pic. of the type of industrial wood welder the guy in Fine WW was talking about:

For more info about it:

http://www.workriteinc.com/products.html
 

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I realize Vaughn that Titebond is a pva glue but it seems to have some of the properties of the urea glues. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens.

Here is a pic. of the type of industrial wood welder the guy in Fine WW was talking about:

For more info about it:

http://www.workriteinc.com/products.html

I'll definitely be interested in seeing how your tests come out. :thumb:

I'm pretty ignorant about glues...what are some of the differences between urea and PVA glues, and what are some of the urea properties in Titebond?
 
You guys are trying to turn a fun hobby into work by rushing things... what's wrong with just waiting until the glues set by themselves as they're supposed to? I'm just never in that big of a hurry any more... since I don't have to worry about the time clock now.
 
First of all I,m no glue expert. Maybe the reason that I see Titebond III and UF109 as similar is the water resistance, sand-ability, color, taste and that they both look good on my shirt front.

Anyway I tried a little test this morning.I cut 6 blocks of spruce 1 1/2"w x 2 3/4"l x 1 1/8"h
Applied Titebond III to both sides and taped them together, doing one set at a time.

I gave block 1, 1 minute at power level 4: nothing happened
I did it again at power level 10 for I minute: It was stuck.
Block 2 got 2 minutes at level 10: It was stuck
Block 3 got 3 minutes at level 10: It started making popping sounds at just over 2 minutes and by 3 minutes was smoking like a good thing, from the inside out. It was stuck as well.
I let them cool about 5 minutes and then proceeded to whack them with a 20 oz. hammer.
Block 1 took 4 hits on side 1 and broke at the fourth hit on the opposite side.

Block 2 took 4 on one side, 4 on the other , 4 again on the 1st side, 4 again on the other, and 4 more on the front. The end grain was starting to crack but not on the joint. Finally I split it with a hammer and chisel.

Block 3 split at the 3rd wallop. I split the charred piece open with the chisel.

When I first tried this several years ago I think that I used a lower power level on the UF109 and the other glue, Weldbond I believe it was. Being a water based glue it probably would have worked then if I had increased the power level. I tried doing that today because I read what the WorkRite Wood Welder web site had to say about dielectric heating and water based glues, high energy and short times. Over doing it weakens the glue and can also be a fire hazard if your not careful.
Anyway it seems to work, but be careful if you decide to try this especially with a turning block. Start small.
 

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I use CA for a lot of my pieces: Example WIP Here

Even the larger pot attached. 175mm diam. was done this way, about 5mins, between bonding and continuing turning. You need to make sure both surfaces are covered, you need maximum surface area bond, both surfaces must be absolutely flat across the piece.

Medium CA as a bead can be worked to spread by rubbing parts together before it activates but you will need to wait longer for cure

For bigger items and ones requiring heavier lathe loads I use Cascamite/Extramite synthetic resin adhesive.

I used PVA when I first started laminating and segmenting but I found it showed join mis-alignment due to bond creep when items had been around a while, due to wood movement, not a lot but enough to be able to feel the difference across the join.

I prefer to firmly mechanically clamp segments together rather than just taping.
 

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PVA glue

Sue titebond II should be sufficent for what your doing and not really take that long. Get some glue smeered on both segments, press tightly and rub togeather slightly, you'll feel the peices bind togeather in a couple of secounds. MAKE sure in that time the peices are in alignment. Next lay them aside and glue another pair. Ok now pair up another ring or if your still usng twenty segments... pair up the two segment peices to each other untill you half a half round ring.
It only takes secounds to fit the segments togeather you don,t have to squeeze for minutes on each.

My 2 cents of experiance.

Good luck

Guy
 
Segmented gluing

I use Titebond I and apply the glue to bother sides of the pieces and rub them together and then set them aside for a few minutes. I can then take those pieces and do the same until my ring is assembled. I let my ring dry over night before running them through the drum sander and then glue my rings together and set a piece of railroad track on the stack of rings. This has been very successful.
 
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