can someone make this clear

allen levine

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new york city burbs
lumber pricing and measurements-

IF Im purchasing rough lumber, and the BF are being calculated, is a board 5.5 counted as 5 inches wide or 6 inches wide?(or do you use the actual 5.5 inches to calculate)
 
Hmmm, can you provide the actual example? Lumber can be calculated in board feet; thickness x width x length in inches divided by 144. If it is milled lumber that falls outside of the 4/4, 5/4, 8/4, 12/4 type of designation . . . I just realized I am not sure of common practice in that situation. Someone else out there?

Possible example: 1 X 5.5 X 120 = 660, divided by 144 = 4.58 bf.
 
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yes, thats how I calculate it, but seems there are dealers that pull lumber that is less than 6 inches, although close, and charge 6 inches rough prices.
So a 1x6x96, is really 1x5.5x96, and wood that runs 10 a bf at 200 bf a 10% difference is alot of cash.
Its one thing when my contractor guys just lines the boards up on the table and lays out close to 12 inches and charges me by foot since hes charging me half what I pay in a yard.
But high priced yards I seem to have a problem with.
with dimensional lumber I understand a 1x6 is really a 1x5.5, but in rough lumber?
 
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My locals charge by what it is. So 5.5 is just that. You are always going to get taken a little here and a little there. Next time you might come out on the plus side. Regardless, still better deal then buying it ready to go.
 
I think it depends on who you're dealing with. My local sawyer typically charges me less than actual. A board that's 8 1/2 feet long is charged at 8 feet.

OTOH, my understanding of most lumber yards is that they round upwards. Remember a 1 x 6 is really just 5.25" wide. If you're paying $10 a bd ft, you might want to discuss it with the vendor. Like gas costing $3.69.9 a gallon, it might just be an added cost that the vendor tries to hide.
 
lumber pricing and measurements-

IF Im purchasing rough lumber, and the BF are being calculated, is a board 5.5 counted as 5 inches wide or 6 inches wide?(or do you use the actual 5.5 inches to calculate)


In my limited experience I have found that most places round. Some round up :(, some round down :D , and very few charge the exact fractional inch.:dunno:
 
I dont expect to be taken at all.

I totally understand that Allen. I think it is just the natural of the game somewhat. Even though we have the equipment to machine the stock the way we want it, we are still at the mercy of the individual selling it.
A $100 pile of red oak can be 2 different sizes depending on the mood of the seller. If you have a board that has edge damage, it might be free. Same goes for broken boards. I have also brought home a lot of yard scraps, too small for them to fool with, for little or nothing.

Here back I bought some 8/4 red oak and a couple boards. Pretty sure I got burnt a little. Looking back on the whole experience, I think I still am running about even.
 
All of you guys back east are in hardwood heaven compared to out here.

We don't have the options of going to get green wood from a local sawyer, or harvesting our own wood off of our woodlots. It's the borg for WAY overpriced 'hardwood' or the real lumber yards who I think have their stock prices confused with those of precious metals and jewels.:rolleyes:
 
I'm used to rounding up on lumber, but they don't do it by the inch. They usually lay all the wood out and measure, round up to the nearest bd ft for the whole lot. Never seen each board rounded.

There is another part to this discussion - green vs dry. There's a lot of stuff on the internet on different and evolving lumber measurements over the years from wet size, dry size, estimated changes while drying. It was more confusing than I really wanted to read up on, so I gave up and just make sure I know how they measure up front to compare prices.
 
i will generally round down and if it wont make good stuff all the way its discounted accordingly..rather me get the short end than the other guy..and if they dont like what they got then we discuss it:)
 
All of you guys back east are in hardwood heaven compared to out here.

We don't have the options of going to get green wood from a local sawyer, or harvesting our own wood off of our woodlots. It's the borg for WAY overpriced 'hardwood' or the real lumber yards who I think have their stock prices confused with those of precious metals and jewels.:rolleyes:

http://hardwoodheaven.net/

You just happen to be right about that.:rofl::rofl:

I've been doing business with this guy for about ten years now.:thumb:
 
were fortunate in the Phoenix area to have 3 or 4 suppliers who are very competitive in there pricing. That said they are all different as to how they measure. and actually I have found that it even differs bases on who is waiting on you. One guy I just wheel my cart up and tell him how many board feet I got and he takes my word for it others will either use exact measurement and still others will round up or down.
 
now its clearer to me.:doh::doh::doh::(:(

I never understood just how fortunate I was to have found my wood guy 2 years ago at the right time.
I hesitated on all that mahogany at 5 bucks a bf. Now Id give him 7 bucks a bf if he'd part with any.
 
I use a lumber stick if buy very much you cant cheat much with it and it has saved me alot in the end sometimes as much as 80bf + in a unit of hard wood.
Now soft wood is a different thing when sold a dimension lumber is come as you are saying 1x8 = 3/4x7.5 etc and on length + maybe up to 1"

Hardwood length is figured on the even foot so a board measuring 8' 11 7/8" is a 8' board by the Weight and measure boys. If they try to tell you different tell them you will have a talk with the Weight and Measure people and let them know it should scare the stuffen out of em those boys bite hard.

Some of them try to sell you KD lumber and add 10% for drying and that is also not legal they can adjust the price but still have to sell hardwoods on net tally any other way is not legal. We had a couple of wholesalers here that found out the hard way about not selling net tally. Like I said the Weight & Measure boys don't fool around.

Kind of like selling firewood by the "rick" as there is no such measure its just a pile of firewood of any size ya want.
 
On a related issue I don't understand why so much more per board foot for 8/4... It seems as if a board foot ought to be a board foot.. But almost every one charges more per board foot as the thickness goes up. The thicker the board the less the waste..(one saw kerf instead of two ect.) so why the extra charge?

I can understand somewhat for table planks and really big beams but not for random width and length 8/4 verses 4/4..

There must be a reason as it seems almost universal where I look at lumber..


Garry
 
On a related issue I don't understand why so much more per board foot for 8/4... It seems as if a board foot ought to be a board foot.. But almost every one charges more per board foot as the thickness goes up. The thicker the board the less the waste..(one saw kerf instead of two ect.) so why the extra charge?

I can understand somewhat for table planks and really big beams but not for random width and length 8/4 verses 4/4..

There must be a reason as it seems almost universal where I look at lumber..


Garry

Gary it cost more to dry it and the failure rate of making grade is higher. Also cost more to handle it.
 
jay, although your point is crystal clear on length, I dont seem to have much problems with that. If I ask for an 8 footer, and they give me a 94 inch board, I will only pay for 7 feet.
My problem is I order all 1x6x96.
And I get 1x5.25 or 5.5 and Im charged by bf for 1x6.
That adds on 10% to the total cost.

I learned a lesson already about buying wood online from Craigslist dealers.
Not only was the count off, (he did credit my account after I complained), the wood has alot of green in it.
I wont buy a piece of rough lumber again unless its from a top reputable dealer or I pick it myself.
 
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