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Thread: Now temp complete..lBig Failure.Build a window sash, Pictures added...New tools added

  1. #1
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    Now temp complete..lBig Failure.Build a window sash, Pictures added...New tools added

    I have a picture window that wasn't installed correctly and the lower edge of it has completely rotted out..

    It is pretty large at about 4 foot by 4 foot., actually a little bigger than that.

    Would Kreig pocket hole assembly be suitable for this....

    I can save the glass I believe.....


    My concern is the sash being so big and the styles being so small. And I also have the issue that it is bigger than anything I have to lay it flat on other than the floor and it isn't very flat...

    And I have never made anything like this before.....


    I have a temp sash and 6 mill poly on it now and need to get something done!

    Thanks for any advice or insight..
    Garry
    Last edited by Garry Foster; 04-20-2011 at 05:48 PM. Reason: Add pictures

  2. #2
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    I perffer dowels over pocket screws for something like this. Mortise and tennon are the best joint for building windows.

  3. #3
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    Just a thought Garry. Instead if replacing it can you fill the rotted areas with epoxy and sand it to shape.

    I had the same problem on several of my windows. Some frames were so rotted I had to replace them but the large picture window was only really rotted at the ends and the epoxy worked great.
    Faith, Hope & Charity

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al killian View Post
    I perffer dowels over pocket screws for something like this. Mortise and tennon are the best joint for building windows.

    Al
    Well That is what I am trying to go with but my first effort failed. I tried to do the mortise by careful layout and then drilling a .5 hole and cutting down to the hole with the band saw. For some reason my band saw just wouldn't cut the wood. Would take off and follow the grain ect.

    I ended up running up to Harrisburg and buying the only tenon jig they had, a wood river.

    I assembled it this AM and have all the mortises made and two of the tenons cut. The last two tenons are going to be tougher as they are too deep for the table saw blade. So after some deep breaths I am going to try and nibble them out with a dado blade..

    Then I have to find somewhere big enough to clamp and glue them and come up with clamps as they are bigger than my longest clamps..

    I still have to deal with the rabbit...for the glass.

    Out of my comfort zone and this is a job I tried to find someone to pay too do but I guess I didn't look hard enough!

    Garry

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Gibson View Post
    Just a thought Garry. Instead if replacing it can you fill the rotted areas with epoxy and sand it to shape.

    I had the same problem on several of my windows. Some frames were so rotted I had to replace them but the large picture window was only really rotted at the ends and the epoxy worked great.
    No the whole bottom is basically gone....

    I wish.....

    Garry

  6. #6
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    Pictures.

    Here are some details of the window sash failure and what I am trying to do..

    The bottom of the sash that rotted out...

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    The rest of the sash..
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    The temporary sash I made out of ripped ply and 6 mil poly sheet. I used the Kreig pocket screws here but they are hid at the present time. Really worked out quite well for this. If the new sash fails I will add Plexi to this and find someone that can build it or try again if I don't ruin the double insulated glass.

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    The new sash I am working on..Bridle joints..and Epoxy glued up using pipe clamps.

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    The epoxy I mixed up, I had no real idea of how much it would take and made plenty. Of what you see gone I also covered an old piece of luan about a foot square just to see how that worked.. And it was only to the black line to start with. Yup wasted about 5.00 worth of epoxy I suspect.

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    After this is done I still have to get the glass in and held. I am in over my pay grade as we used to say... There have been some new tools! I'll show them in another post..

    Ideas, useful criticisms and all help appreciated.

    Garry
    Last edited by Garry Foster; 04-11-2011 at 10:16 PM.

  7. #7
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    New tools

    Well I had to get some new tools to get where I am on this job.

    I started trying to make the bridle joints by drilling a hole and then using my band saw to clean out the bridles. However the band sawing failed totally. So I made a run up too Harrisburg, Pa and picked up a Wood River tenon jig, I did some reading before I went and the reviews weren't very favorable as to fit and finish but it seemed to be functional. So 89.00 dollars plus tax and 100 or so miles I got to assemble and clean this up. I was pleased with it in general and managed to clean up the earlier mistakes and got the joints completed...


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    Of course then I didn't have any clamps close to long enough. I thought about making some poor boy clamps from some pallet planks I had laying around but as I also had some 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch pipe laying I decided to make some extensions for my 1/2 inch pipe clamps and get some new HF 3/4 inch clamps.(On sale for 8.99).

    These have a stand as part of the casting. The ones without the stand were $7.99.
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    They also had the 56 inch clamps on sale for $9.99 so I got a couple of them, but ended up not using them so may take them back as it might make me have too many clamps...
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    Now I had the pipe but it wasn't threaded so HF had this 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch pipe threading set on sale for around $24.00 so I picked it up. I have cut 8 3/4 inch threads and 3 1/2 inch threads so I am probably already ahead of hardware store threading even if they would have threaded carry in pipe. Should have taken one of my 20 percent off coupons in with me but never thought about it.
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    So now I am waiting 24 hours for the glue to dry then get the sash to fit the hole and the glass to fit the sash..

    Garry

  8. #8
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    Well here is the piece of glass I am working with, Thats a 4 foot level just for a feel for the size. Cleaning it of all the butyl caulk took a lot of time with scraping and MEK.
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    And here the sash is ready for the rabbeting. This will be the hard part....
    My plan is to use the router hand held. There isn't much to keep the router level. I am sure this would be a simple matter for those of you more experienced. But it is where I can ruin all the effort expended so far.
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    Garry
    Last edited by Garry Foster; 04-14-2011 at 12:50 PM.

  9. #9
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    I'm watching with interest, Garry. Good luck!
    AKA Young Grasshopper Woodworker
    AKA The Rookie

  10. #10
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    Looking good. You should have done the rabbit befor assembly. It would have been easeir.

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