Ok guys and gals...sorry for the delay...my health can't decide what it wants to do. In part 1, we'll look at wood selection, cuts, dimensions, tenons and coring. Part 2 will deal with attaching the two parts and some ideas on finishing. So here we go!
What kind of wood should you use? Let's re-phrase that...what kind shouldn't you use?
1) Anything with scent - it will impart to your salt and that may not work.
2) Woods that change color with light like Purple Heart. These woods are full of oxidants that can breakdown your salt...we don't want wet salt.
3) woods that have lots of holes. Ambrosia maple is ok, but you need to fill the holes and CA has a crappy smell. If it's only one or two...ok, but try to keep it to a minimum.
4) Nothing oily Stay away from the likes of Cocobolo and Teak.
A good size seems to be in the 4" to 6" range. It really depends on who it's for. If they're in the kitchen all the time...bigger is better, by the same tokin, if it's someone that only cooks on the weekends, 4" is great.
Some good ones are English walnut, Oaks, Maples, Cherry and so on.
OK..let's turn something!! Hog cuts are fine. I use a 1 1/4" Spindle gouge to knock it down fast, After that...bowl gouge, scraper...whatever suits you needs
Pic #1 Roughing out a Cherry block. Try to start with a 4" tall x 6" wide block. Even better if you can get it cut round!
Pic #2 All roughed out. No need to make it pretty at this point.
Pic #3 Pencil lines added to locate a few things. I've already made the tenon for the base.
Pic #4 Smal parting line at lid and base. Making the tenon for the lid.
Pic #7 Out of order...sorry. All split and ready to finish.
Pic #5 Container chucked and ready to get messy.
Pic #6 Notice I've defined the outer boarder. This one is about 1/2" Nothing exact...but it does need to be beefy. The magnet is 1/4"
Now core to you hearts content. I like to leave 1/2" all around. More later!! Just PM me with any questions you have to this point!!
I decided to make it 3 parts to cut down on the size of the pages...and I'm real tired too!! Don't have a whole lot of strength yet!
So we left off with coring.
Pic #1) In pictures all the hollowing was done with a bowl gouge, just because. Straight sides with a nice radius at the base transition are a nice touch. Some woods, like this cherry are prone to catching so be very careful...scrapers love to catch! Once that is done, there may be some tear out so a little 80g bath won’t hurt. Don't make it pretty; open grain helps absorb moisture so the salt stays dry.
Pic #2) Now we have to get the tenon off the base and lid.
Pic #3) You'll notice in the pictures I use chuck with flat jaws for this part. You could use a jamb chuck or whatever idea you come up with.
Pic #4) Either way...small light nibble cuts and slow speeds or you'll chase it down the block.
Pic #5) Finish off the base while you’re here with whatever you like. I did a foot with some ring embellishments.
Pic #6) Same thing for the lid...BUT remember the side with the tenon is the TOP. Refer to tutorial #1 Line pic's On the underside, you can add a rim if you like.
Pic #7) Both parts matched up!! Always test fit while working on lid or base. But if you mess up...contrasting parts can be cool!!
Stay tuned for the only reason you guys are reading this . Tomorrow we'll attach everything.
Ok guys...The end of the road. Couple of things; this is not a production piece, I started with the grain going the wrong way and since it was for a demo, there was no sanding or finish work at all. Next, Parts of this project are dangerous!! Please...challenge yourself, but do not endanger yourself. If you are not comfortable with any part of this project, get help!! Have another turner come by; go to your local club, whatever. Coring/hollowing to perpendicular sides with a bowl gouge isn't easy...use another method if you’re not comfortable. Enough of that crap...let's make something!
Pic #1) Measure your pin so the majority is in the base and 2/3 is in the lid
Pic #2 Use tape or a sharpie to assure your drill depth
Pic #3) Give the pin a good smack with a rubber mallet to assure depth
Pic #4 here is the start of the fun. Get some cardboard or construction paper and wrap it around the base tightly and tape. I leave a gap at the pin site.
Pic #5 add the top into the tube and make sure your grain is lined up…last chance! Give it a little smack with the rubber mallet and....
Pic #6 Use dimple as a drill guide. Make sure you don't drill to deep!!!!
Pic #7) Come 180 opposite the pin...doesn't have to be exact, and drill your hole the same size as the magnet...mine are 1/4 x 1/16. You want the magnet just proud of the rim.
Pic #8) Add CA and a good amt of accelerator.
Pic #9) Now attach the lid...rotate until the magnet is just visible. Coat the magnet with sharpie like crazy...rotate the lid into alignment and press the lid down on the base magnet...move quickly!!!
Pic #10) If you did it right, this is what you get. Drill, glue and accelerate as done in the base. Viola!!! it lines up!!
NOW...not so fast. Make sure you give the CA plenty of time to cure. The mags will pull themselves out. AND...make sure you align the mags to attract...not oppose...DAMHIKT!
And that's really all there is guys. Total time is 90 I think. I use Formby’s Tung oil finish or Wipe on poly fast dry stuff. Please!!!! Ask if something doesn't make sense or you have a different idea or whatever. PM or call me and I'll do what I can for you. Stay safe and stay blessed!! Good luck!