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Thread: Adding to workbench top question

  1. #1
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    Adding to workbench top question

    I have this cheap workbench pictured below. As you can see I tore out the tool tray because if I fill this in and add some on to the side I can make it 24" wide which I would like. I just ran a router sled over the top to flatten it. Since it is a cheap bench I do not want to put much money into it so my question is this. If I can find some relative knot free common 2 x 4s, fir or pine, why not run these over the jointer and saw to width and glue them to the side? Are these likely to bow and make the top uneven or will they be OK?

  2. #2
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    My entire bench is made of Douglas fir and the top holds up very well. Southern yellow pine is another tough softwood, so I think you're on the right track.
    All the best,
    Ian G

    **Now holding auditions for a catchy new signature**

  3. #3
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    Just a caution on using dimensional lumber......

    many times mills will not air dry or kiln dry it enough for finish lumber standards. If you don't have access to a moisture meter, I would sticker the boards and put them in a heated room for at least a month or two to allow for final stabilization.

    There is a lot of junk sold these days that they euphemistically call a 2 X 4.

  4. #4
    Don Taylor is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Hi Allen,
    Seems like I'm using these Dowels for about everything these days. It would be a simple task that way and help with alignment. One thing for sure, they won’t be able to bow.
    Be sure and take pictures as you go.



    DT

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arnie Grammon View Post
    Just a caution on using dimensional lumber......

    many times mills will not air dry or kiln dry it enough for finish lumber standards. If you don't have access to a moisture meter, I would sticker the boards and put them in a heated room for at least a month or two to allow for final stabilization.

    There is a lot of junk sold these days that they euphemistically call a 2 X 4.
    Good point, Arnie. My bench is made of ex-warehouse floor joists - 14x4's. They had decades of seasoning before they came to me.
    All the best,
    Ian G

    **Now holding auditions for a catchy new signature**

  6. #6
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    Thanks Ian. I felt good about going ahead when I read your post. Then I read Arnie's and I really need to finish it up tomorrow morning to get on some other jobs and am wondering what will happen if the wood is to wet since it will be all be glued together. You are right about the junk wood but the bench is not much better. It is flat on the top however and I would like it to stay that way. That is the only requirement.
    Last edited by Allen Bookout; 02-24-2007 at 02:12 AM.

  7. #7
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    Hi Don. Good idea.

    Your a lucky guy Ian to have access to aged wood like that.

    I could pick up some new hardwood but if I am going to that much expense might just as well build a whole new bench and make it worthwhile. Don't really have time for that right now though.
    Last edited by Allen Bookout; 02-24-2007 at 02:12 AM.

  8. #8
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    Pallet lumber would be good. Usually free and frequently made of a mystery hardwood. If you have access to a planer, you've got it made.

  9. #9
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    I never thought of that for the bench Frank. Good point.

    I guess that I gave up on pallet wood as years ago I used some and I hated getting all of the nails out, but for free its worth the effort if you have a use for it.

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