Hollowing rig questions

[Jeff Bower]

Tom if you have a local HF you might look at this too...I have bought a few of them and they work great for what you want to do.

>>>LINK<<<

[Tom Baugues]

Well, here is my hollowing rig setup. It is all 3/4" stainless steel rod. I am not sure how long the boring bars should be? I suppose as long as I want? The only one I made so far is the one in the photo which is 21" long with a 3/8 drill bit cut and shaped. Not sure how it will work.
Now, before someone says it...I know that I need a safety pin in the back of the D-arm. I have not been able to find one just yet. (edit) found one tonight.

Jeff, thanks for the link to the Harbor Freight bits. I saw those once when I was there but was not completely sure that was what I needed.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Nicely done Tom. I think you are on your way. Now for some HF's.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Looking real good, Tom.

You may find that for most hollowing, having a shorter boring bar can be an advantage. First, shorter bars typically vibrate less. Second, the longer the boring bar and D handle are, the more space you need behind the lathe when you try to enter the vessel at a sharp angle, like when you're cutting the just inside the opening and along the shoulders. Fortunately, it sounds like you've got plenty of materials to make multiple boring bars. You can make yourself a whole assortment of 'em and changed them around as the need arises.

[Stuart Ablett]

Looking real good, Tom.

You may find that for most hollowing, having a shorter boring bar can be an advantage. First, shorter bars typically vibrate less. Second, the longer the boring bar and D handle are, the more space you need behind the lathe when you try to enter the vessel at a sharp angle, like when you're cutting the just inside the opening and along the shoulders. Fortunately, it sounds like you've got plenty of materials to make multiple boring bars. You can make yourself a whole assortment of 'em and changed them around as the need arises.

I certainly agree with Vaughn, both in that you have done fine job, and it looks great, and that having a short bar or two is nice. Since you are making them yourself, why not knockout a short, medium and long bar?

Cheers!

[Bart Leetch]

And what is meant by back rest is it the part the back of the tool steel holder slides through that captures it & keeps it from twisting or turning?

[Jeff Bower]

Tom that does looks nice! Can't wait to see what it and you can come up with for a HF now!

[Wayne Bower]

Tom, that is a nice capture rig. I love to build tools and have built one of these, a steel snake and a small hand held rig too. You will enjoy it I am sure.

[Tom Baugues]

And what is meant by back rest is it the part the back of the tool steel holder slides through that captures it & keeps it from twisting or turning?

Yes Bart. The backrest is just that...the "rails" that the D-arm is sliding on. It keeps the whole arm from getting out of position. With a set up like this you can actually cut out a bowl with just finger tip control on the boring bar. (so I'm told...I have yet to try it out).

I hope to spend this weekend making several boring bars with various cutting tips.

[Chuck Ellis]

Tom, I like what you did there... looks good in stainless... I see what you mean about having to pull away from the wall too.... I'll be real glad to solve that problem for you..... my lathe sits in the middle of the shop with the tail stock perpendicular to the wall, so that looks as if it would fit fine in my shop and you wouldn't have to get all hot and sweaty moving your lathe..

Are your going to put a laser on it too?