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Thread: From veal to millwork

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Puyallup, WA
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    330
    Larry,

    (If you care) I doubt youur permitting authority would allow it for use as anything other than a bed material. The stuff I've seen is usually ground to 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" in size. It definitely has sharp edges to it as well.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Floydada, Tx
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    that make good sence,, how fine is this recycled concrete? might look into that for a drive way??? or would it turn mush come spring rains??
    It ranges from powder to 3/4" peices. Once it packs in, its in for good. It is DOT approved fill. I know a few places around here that use it in the driveways. The only down side it is can have peices of rebar in it if the magnet wasnt working good the day.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    North West Indiana
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    5,275
    Speaking of concrete driveways, don't remember where I read or heard this, but black concrete drives are a new thing. Since many tax districts are using space satellite pictures of your property for tax purposes, people are using black dye in their concrete mix so they get taxed at the cheaper blacktop rate than for a concrete drive.
    God and family, the rest is icing on the cake.

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  4. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    jonathan i was gonna look into camo colerd dye that way it and i would blend in thanks vaughn for you inquiry and as for permit aurthority i do pay attention to that, and will check it out in my area..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Floydada, Tx
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    I hate the weather. Wanted to seal the concrete today, but the sudden warm up made the barn sweat and the concete was wet. WE sealed up the barn tonight and fired up the heaters. Hopefully this dries out the barn. We did manage to cut the concrete tonight. One more thing off the list

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ and LA
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    Al, the longer you can keep the surface of the slab moist, the fewer surface cracks you'll get, and the stronger the concrete will become*. If you dry things out too quickly, you'll run the risk of cracks, and the finished surface won't be as durable.

    Larry, I tried to get ahold of my dad tonight and he was tied up with something else. I'll try again tomorrow.




    * Unrelated story time...Concrete gains strength the longer it's kept wet, and structures that stay wet for much of their life can become very, very strong. I did some testing once on a job where they had removed an old car wash, and the contractor was on the fourth or fifth day of trying to break up the old slab to haul it off. He'd bid the job figuring on having the slab out in a day.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Floydada, Tx
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    Thanks Vaughn, it has be wet since friday about 9:30 pm. I no it is better to let it cure slowly,however I need to get it sealed and start putting machines into place. I hope six days is enough time.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    ABQ and LA
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    Al, six days should have you in good shape.

    Larry, I had a chance to talk to my dad tonight and got some education. Here's the gist of it:

    Recycled concrete like Al described (crushed concrete with everything from 3/4" chunks down to powder) would make a great driveway. You'd need to moisten is as it's placed, and compact it with a vibratory roller, if possible. He said that weeds would eventually be able to grow, but a good herbicide should keep things under control.

    If you have a concrete batch plant nearby, another option that he's seen work real well is the material that gets washed out of the mixer trucks when they return to the yard. He called it "washout". With this stuff, the cement in the mix has not fully hydrated (hardened), so when it gets placed and compacted it sets up almost like concrete.

    Either of these materials can also be helped by mixing in a bit of Portland cement before it's moistened and placed. He called it "Texas Two-Sack". Mix about two sacks of cement per cubic yard, and you'll have something the weeds will run and hide from. He says Texas Two-Sack can be done with just about any material (dirt, gravel, sand) and mixed with whatever equipment is available (loader, dozer, grader).

    I also mentioned that you had a problem with the mud swallowing your gravel, and he said either of these materials would likely bridge the mud better than regular gravel, although it'd need to be more than a few inches thick. He said another trick to keep things from sinking into the mud is to use geogrid, a plastic grid that's typically used under base course in roadways. The two brands he recommended are Tensar and Miragrid. He said geogrid isn't cheap, but it's less expensive than replacing your gravel every year.

    I hope this helps -
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  9. #29
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    Thanks vaughn i like the texas 2 sack idea maybe i could just pour some on my stones and let the rain mix it in and i would have a poor mans stone driveway??
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    GTA Ontario Canada
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    9,577
    Vaughn funny you call it Portland cement. I always thought that was a brand name back in the day when i worked in the hardware store as a youngster.

    Will have to look up where and why that name is used.
    Rob .....Alias John Wayne now Pasquinell da trapper.

    "forget the apples slap some bacon on a biscuit and lets go...

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