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Thread: HF Captured Rig in 4 Hours

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Tokyo Japan
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    HF Captured Rig in 4 Hours

    OK, I put a lot of thought into this, before I built it, but start to finish was about 4 hours, not counting a coffee break or two

    I decided to make this up today, as I had all of the welding stuff out, and the Dungeon was a mess anyways so why not just make a bigger mess, and get this done!!

    Attachment 5212
    I started out turning down one end of the solid piece of steel rod so it would fit inside the pipe that I'm going to make the D-handle out of. This took some time, and my scraper needed a lot of resharpening, but I got it done.....

    Attachment 5213
    Not bad for a wood lathe, I think!

    Attachment 5214
    Fits just right

    Attachment 5215
    There is even a bit of a shoulder for it to stop at.

    Now onto the "D" handle....

    Attachment 5216
    I cut the pipe at 45s and then welded it up, worked well, I added a few nuts with allen bolts to hold the tool insert, and then I ground the D-handle smooth.

    I then built the tip of the tool, not much there but a bit of grinding, then filing, drill a hole and tap it, and I have a tool tip.

    Attachment 5217
    I cut up an old circular saw blade that Mark Rios sent me (thanks again Mark!) and it works OK, but the steel is a bit on the thin side, I need to find something that is more like at least an 1/8" thick, if not more, and is for sure HSS, dunno if the saw blade was...

    The capture part was next, this was fairly simple, I was working hard to get it done, so I did not take any "In progress pics" (I know, I know) as the cell camera and hot steel and sparks to do with welding don't really mix either (nor do my dirty hands all over the cell phone).

    All you get is the finished product...............

    Attachment 5218
    A head stock view

    Attachment 5219
    from the other end

    Attachment 5220
    here is the part that captures the D-handle, simple and works like a trick!

    Attachment 5221
    I chucked up one of the ROCK hard Keyaki blanks, this stuff is seriously hard, I DNAed it on July 28th 2006 (the wrapper said) so it was seriously dry and when so, it is seriously hard!!

    The rig worked fine, the only thing is the tool tip dulled in about 1 minute of scraping!

    Now what? Do I make a curved tool tip?

    Hope you enjoyed the show, I guess I'll be adding some HFs to my list of things to make, now I have the tool!

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Arena, Wisconsin
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    231
    Awesome, as per usual Stu, but please back up to the first couple pics and explain how you made that slip fit cut on the tube. I am very interested!

    Thanks

    [EDIT to add…] The best I can think is to use an angle grinder and finish with a file, but I wouldn’t put it past you to come up with a way better idea.
    Last edited by Frank Chaffee; 02-25-2007 at 11:29 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mountain Home, Arkansas
    Posts
    11,697
    A very professional looking rig. Should give you many hours of happy hollowing.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
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    Stu that is a good looking rig. I just wish I had the time and equipment to do that. If I built tools I would never get any turning done. With my full time job, my clock repair shop and then trying to turn I need a 54 hr. day.

    Stu it is a beauty and looks like it does the job.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: Thats when you return from work one day
    and say, Hi, Honey, Im home forever.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
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    29,086
    Looking good, Stu. You will indeed want to find thicker stock for the scraper bits. I'd also suggest looking into making a boring bar tip for the initial hollowing. It's easier on the blank and easier on you. These tips are essentially square bar stock (HSS, of course), 3/16 to 3/8 or so wide and a couple inches long, with essentially a scraper bevel on the end. This square stock then goes inside a heavy bar (so it sticks out the end) and is held in place with allen screws. Here's an example:

    Attachment 5239

    Randy Privett sells blank steel bits down at the bottom of this page. I don't know if he can ship to Japan, but you might be able to find something similar locally.

    Regarding the curved tool tip, I'd suggest looking at the angled tool bit holders to get some ideas. In my limited experience, I find myself using the angled bit holders more than the swan neck bar with a scraper on it. You can also make a scraper bit holder that fits in the angled holder.

    Of course, until some of my roughs dry, most of my experience has been the initial hollowing of green wood. I suspect I'll be using the scraper bits pretty exclusively when I'm doing the finish turning on the hollow forms I'm currently drying.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    810
    The rig worked fine, the only thing is the tool tip dulled in about 1 minute of scraping!

    Now what? Do I make a curved tool tip?
    I don't know anything about turning, but I'll suggest anyway .... any chance that an old metal working file would be hard enough to keep a good edge in the wood? It shouldn't be too much trouble to heat one red hot and hammer it on the anvil into the shape you want and then grind the correct profile on the end? A bit of tempering once you're done grinding should help it stay sharp?

    just a thought ...

    cheers eh?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Zushi, Japan
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    739
    Quote Originally Posted by John Bartley View Post
    I don't know anything about turning, but I'll suggest anyway .... any chance that an old metal working file would be hard enough to keep a good edge in the wood? It shouldn't be too much trouble to heat one red hot and hammer it on the anvil into the shape you want and then grind the correct profile on the end? A bit of tempering once you're done grinding should help it stay sharp?

    just a thought ...

    cheers eh?
    I was also going to suggest you try hardening the steel bit you have there. In one of my lathe turning books there is a section on making your own cutting tools and hardening them. I can photocopy them and fax them over to you if you want.

    BTW very nice job on the rig Stu.

  8. #8
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    Oct 2006
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    Thanks for the info guys, and the tips.

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  9. #9
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    Oct 2006
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    Just a thougtht on cutter material

    I can get these.........

    Attachment 5269

    ....for about $20, lots of cutters there eh?

    About 12" long, and the sizes are 20mm, 25mm, 30mm that is about 3/4" 1" 1 1/4"

    I was thinking I could slice off a piece whatever thickness I want, like a roll of quarters.....?

    What do you think?

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    ABQ NM
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    29,086
    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart Ablett View Post
    ...
    About 12" long, and the sizes are 20mm, 25mm, 30mm that is about 3/4" 1" 1 1/4"

    I was thinking I could slice off a piece whatever thickness I want, like a roll of quarters.....?

    What do you think?

    Cheers!
    If I'm following what you're thinking of, I think that stock is bigger diameter than you might want as a cutting tip. A wide tip equals more drag, and the bigger potential for bad things to happen. My BIG bit is 3/8" wide. I use the 1/4" and 3/16" when I want to take a lighter cut. The Don Pencil Stinger bits are also 3/16", but they are round whereas the Monster bits are square with a rounded tip. My boring bar itself is 3/4", and the bits at the end are all half that size or smaller.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

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