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HF Captured Rig in 4 Hours

Stu, I can see how the 8mm rod is expedient at this stage, but I expect that you will decide to drill, harden, and temper tool steel cutters eventually. As suggested, the ability to index a square cutter or rotate a round disc is invaluable.

As to that angle grinder thing… once we got in a load of schedule 40 pipe that was so out of round it wouldn’t slide into its mating part, so we rigged an angle grinder (hose clamped it), onto a plate attached to the cross slide of a lathe, and had relatively unskilled workers true it up enough to fit a gage.
 
Stu, you were looking for material for cutters. Have you considered a piece of lawnmower blade or a large spade drill bit.
 
Donald, both great sources of steel, both I do not have!

I can buy some SUM24L steel here, which is a HSS for fairly reasonable prices, I'll go that route.

Cheers!
 
Bernie Weishapl said:
Stu that is a good looking rig. I just wish I had the time and equipment to do that. If I built tools I would never get any turning done. With my full time job, my clock repair shop and then trying to turn I need a 54 hr. day.

Stu it is a beauty and looks like it does the job.
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I just don't get it:dunno: . Where does Stu find the time to do all that he does:huh: :)
 
No TV at all? Shame..... Well, maybe not. Only shop time I get is when the kids are asleep. I watch two or three shows (one kiddie show with my daughter), but not much.
 
Ummh I'm just dropping in on this conversation. So forgive me if I'm way off. Have you tried useing those ceramic inserts? It would save a lot of work making little metal inserts.
 
Richard Smith said:
Ummh I'm just dropping in on this conversation. So forgive me if I'm way off. Have you tried useing those ceramic inserts? It would save a lot of work making little metal inserts.
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Richard, please drop into any conversation we are having, anytime!

Ceramic inserts, I'm not sure I follow, are you talking about the cutting part of the tool?

I do not know if "Ceramic" would hold up, are they not somewhat brittle????

If you have an example, please do tell, I'm all ears! :thumb:
 
Travis Porter said:
No TV at all? Shame..... Well, maybe not. Only shop time I get is when the kids are asleep. I watch two or three shows (one kiddie show with my daughter), but not much.
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OK, I'll fess up, on about every second Sunday, at 7 PM here, there is a show called "Testuwan Dash" that is an hour long, my daughters, my wife and I will often all sit around watching it, it is fantastic. I guess I watch about 2 hours a month.

It is really easy, Japanese TV SUCKS, sports, you want sports............ OK take your pick Soccer or Baseball..........:zzz:

The don't even run the MotoGP here on TV until a week after the race is over and at 2 or 3AM........ :bang: (my other hobby is motorcycles).

Cheers!
 
Stuart, now days metal turners don't much use metal cutters any more. If their not useing metal with a carbide tip, then they are useing a tool like yours with a ceramic tip. Any industrial supply should have them. They come in different shapes. Circles, triangle, square. They have a hole in the middle for mounting and can be turned for a fresh edge.I think I have seen a commercial turning tool that uses these.
 
Thanks for the info Richard, I know the things you are talking about, like this..........
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..........right?

I'd love to get some round ones :D
 
At this moment on E-bay, look at items # 250088752627 and # 250088752652.
 
Probably not what you think

Ceramic insert tool cutters as well as the carbide cutters are designed for cutting tool steels (carbide) and hardened tool steels (ceramic). These insert cutters are designed with an "edge preparation", a certain radius on the cutting edge suited for the specific use the cutter is designed for. A sharp edge will not take the shock loading that occurs when turning hardened materials. You need sharp for wood.
I would suggest getting some cobalt enhanced HSS cutters and sharpening these for what you need. You can also find cemented or silver soldered carbide lathe cutters that are resharpenable. These would mount in a square hole per their size, ie 1/4", 5/16", or 3/8" etc. I recently purchased 1/8" x 1/2" x 3" long cobalt enhanced cutters for making scraper tools. I also picked up some cut off tool cutters at 3/32"x 3/4"x5" to make a cut off tool.
Heat treating at home can be rather problematic unless you are oil hardening O-1 or O-6 tool steels. There are a lot of changes that go on in steels at very specific tempereatures for certain periods of time. Size and steel composition have everything to do with success. Failure can mean brittleness or too soft or anything in between. Worst case senario would be brittle failure that can launch sharp shrapnel.
You can find most of these tool steels at any machine tool supply business. I get mine from Production Tool Supply.
 
I have both a monster hollowing rig and a home made free standing rig I made. I suppose there are many ways to hollow using different tips etc.- I Hollow start to finish on wet and have been able to control the drying/warping so I no longer do it in 2 steps. If it helps here are some thoughts on what I do.

Monster Hollowing rig - What I use is 3/16 square HSS or HSS with colbalt for my initial hollowing. I have tried both steels and really do not see a difference.
I think 3/16 works better than using larger bits and it cuts nicely. First, I use a indexing tool with 3/16 for more rapid stock removal and initial hollowing out. Then, I can use a swan neck and do a entire small vessel without changing tools - just change angle of cutter - . So, rarely do I need to use the 45' cutter insert thru the bar or tip change. When done with the rough out hollowing I change over to the sheer cut tool tips that I made out of HSS and make my smoothing out cuts.

Larger Hollowing rig - It is a free standing Hollowing rig with a 1 1/4" bar-3/4" angled insert that holds my cutters for much deeper hollowing projects - I use sheer scrape type design on the cutting tips and grind them to a bit narrow at the tip. I do not use 3/16 or any square other cutters - I find the flat tear drop with the grind on put on them works great - Vaughn's idea of them being round with a hole right you can rotate the tip but because the tips. But, for me i make the tear drop in the design with a slot to the middle is best for me as i can quickly loosen the nut and sharpen and have back on in seconds - so i guess both have there place depending on how you want to set things up.
 
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