Question about Shed Siding - What Fastener?

Brent Dowell

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Quick question about siding for my shed.

The plans call for using 1/2" cdx as the exterior sheathing for the shed. But that plan also calls for using horizontal cedar siding.

I'm not planning on doing the cedar siding, as I'd like for the exterior of the shed to somewhat match the house. Our house has something more like this on it.

96 in. Composite Panel Siding

If I use these types of panels, do I need to sheath the shed in 1/2" cdx?
 
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My shed has the same siding. Installed directly over the studs.
If I was going to do it over again I would use plywood sheathing. The main reason is durability. I'm always banging my tractor or something into the walls inside the shed and cracking the siding.
 
1/2 OSB and Sheathing it is then!

And putting the 1/2 osb on the inside will give it a more 'finished' look, so I reckon that's what I'll do!

Thanks Guys! :thumb:
 
Quick question about siding for my shed.

The plans call for using 1/2" cdx as the exterior sheathing for the shed. But that plan also calls for using horizontal cedar siding.

I'm not planning on doing the cedar siding, as I'd like for the exterior of the shed to somewhat match the house. Our house has something more like this on it.

96 in. Composite Panel Siding

If I use these types of panels, do I need to sheath the shed in 1/2" cdx?

Brent

The biggest issue that always pops up with that type of siding is rain hitting the ground and bouncing up under the siding which will cause it to rot.

Personally, I have never done a siding job without sheathing, then cap the bottom of the sheathing and wrap it. I know it is a lot of extra work for a shed, but it will last much longer and give you a lot less headaches down the road.

JMO
 
Personally, I have never done a siding job without sheathing, then cap the bottom of the sheathing and wrap it.

So what does 'cap the bottom and wrap it' mean? Fortunately, we are in a pretty dry climate, but I would like to do it right and learn a bit about things while I'm at it. :thumb:
 
So what does 'cap the bottom and wrap it' mean? Fortunately, we are in a pretty dry climate, but I would like to do it right and learn a bit about things while I'm at it. :thumb:

Capping the bottom of the sheathing with c-channel.....let it ride about 3 inches. The BORG sells it......as for wrapping it....I use Tyvek, but since you are in a dry area, I would forgo that..

Did you ever see a structure that was rotting close to the ground? That was caused by rain bouncing off the dirt and kind of splashing up behind the sheathing. The capping eliminates that issue.

****from another site****

"The plywood extends beyond the walls original vertical plain leaving an exposed open grain and its another in the steps to seal the bottom of the plywood to prevent wicking. "

That being said, this wicking effect on the end grain is what the capping solves.

Hope this helps
 
Brent here is a photo for you I had from a while ago.

You can see the house wrap, but if you look at the very base of the sheathing, you will see a 3 inch piece of c-channel nailed to cover the end grain of the sheathing.
 

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Dom would that C channel have drainage holes in it? I have no clue about this subject but surely a c channel on the bottom would also serve to trap water that has run down the plywood and have its own rotting effect?:dunno:
 
Dom would that C channel have drainage holes in it? I have no clue about this subject but surely a c channel on the bottom would also serve to trap water that has run down the plywood and have its own rotting effect?:dunno:

Negative.....the water is not coming down from the top of the siding, it is "splash-back" coming from sideways rain, heavy rain splashing from the ground, etc. Vinyl siding has weep holes already built in, but cement board and T-111 do not obviously.

The "layers" of material, tyvek, insulation, and then siding makes the sheathing waterproof from that aspect. This type of flashing is code in a lot of counties.

Some contractors will run tyvek to the very bottom of the sheathing and then cap it, which is the way I used to do it. Doesn't matter if you are installing Hardie Board, Vinyl, or even Textured T-111, it is a good practice to get into.
 
Dom IMO tyvek ain't worth the money you pay for it let alone what you have to pay to have it put on. I've built long before it was available and i notice on the homes around here it is slowly going away. As far as the c channel that is iffy also to me and most builders, at least around here. Brent i would look at what you have on your house and go from there. If i was worried about splash i would just flip that siding over and put a good oil base primer on it and be done with it. Now this is just how I would do it, and how i would recommend to a client they do it. I have no stats to prove it will work, just 30 plus years building homes, barns,Factories you name it.Still building multi million dollar homes every day to make some groceries.:D
 
Dom IMO tyvek ain't worth the money you pay for it let alone what you have to pay to have it put on. I've built long before it was available and i notice on the homes around here it is slowly going away. As far as the c channel that is iffy also to me and most builders, at least around here. Brent i would look at what you have on your house and go from there. If i was worried about splash i would just flip that siding over and put a good oil base primer on it and be done with it. Now this is just how I would do it, and how i would recommend to a client they do it. I have no stats to prove it will work, just 30 plus years building homes, barns,Factories you name it.Still building multi million dollar homes every day to make some groceries.:D

With that kind of experience I take what you recommend very seriously.

I remember years ago that a company ....I think it was Hardie....but don't quote me on that, would not honor a guarantee if we did not add the c channel.

As for the House wrap......for the type of structure Brent is building I would agree with you, as well as his area of the country, as I told him in the follow-up.

I know we do it in Florida for vinyl, cement board, t-111, among others, but then again we have a pretty viscous rainy season down here.

I am not a multi- million dollar home builder like you, just been around the block a few times, and that is how we have always done it.
 
With that kind of experience I take what you recommend very seriously.

I remember years ago that a company ....I think it was Hardie....but don't quote me on that, would not honor a guarantee if we did not add the c channel.

As for the House wrap......for the type of structure Brent is building I would agree with you, as well as his area of the country, as I told him in the follow-up.

I know we do it in Florida for vinyl, cement board, t-111, among others, but then again we have a pretty viscous rainy season down here.

I am not a multi- million dollar home builder like you, just been around the block a few times, and that is how we have always done it.
I understand where your coming from Dom i really do. I've built in NY, PA, TN, KY, NM, TX And everywhere i've built has been a little different.Never built in Florida so don't have any experence with the wet areas. This is what we are going with on all the big houses( pic at the end) Now the small homes around here are just getting the window flanges taped and no tyvek. Most of the homes i build are brick not siding, but have built more than i could count of them.
You can ask Larry what kind of work we do down here in the sticks:rofl:, as he's been on this job site.
i just think for the price it's not worth it, not to try talking Brent out of something he wants by any means, just seems to me for a shed it's not worth it.:dunno:
The secound pic is the one i'm working on right now
Steve
 

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Brent,

I used that stuff on my shed. No sheathing, but then I don't have a tractor to run into it. And no C-channel, either. It's held up so far.

Of course, you're in a far different climate. And as far as that goes, if c-channel helps keep the rattlers out of the shed, I'm all for it! ;)

Thanks,

Bill
 
Brent,

I used that stuff on my shed. No sheathing, but then I don't have a tractor to run into it. And no C-channel, either. It's held up so far.

Of course, you're in a far different climate. And as far as that goes, if c-channel helps keep the rattlers out of the shed, I'm all for it! ;)

Thanks,

Bill

I'm thinking I'll start with just the siding on the outside. If I seem clumsy enough, I'll do the inside OSB. Just a shed anyway. I'll dress up the outside a bit.

The day I find a rattler in the shed or in my garage is the day I'll, well, probably have a heart attack... Haven't seen any yet this year, but that day is coming soon. Usually around mid to the end of may when I see the first one.

I still jump with I see them on the road and I'm driving in my truck.... :eek:
 
What Fastener should I use?

I figure a pneumatic Framing nailer is overkill?

Is there a preferred Pneumatic tool?

Or do I need to go old school and bang in some ring shanks by hammer?
 
Seems to me i used screws. Like, inch and a half, exterior, star drive, coated. Somewhere between yellow and brown. Maybe they were only one inch? Anyway, they were quick and easy, and I think they were recommended for the material...

Thanks,

Bill
 
Seems to me i used screws. Like, inch and a half, exterior, star drive, coated. Somewhere between yellow and brown. Maybe they were only one inch? Anyway, they were quick and easy, and I think they were recommended for the material...

Thanks,

Bill

There you go again, Bill. Making perfect sense... :thumb:

That seems like the best idea to me. Secure, easy to control depth, easy to do. :thumb:
 
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