A few folks have asked about how I make the finger joints I use in my G&G-looking stuff. I thought I had done a bit of a tutorial before but, in looking I realize that is not so (it was all in my mind again).
The next piece I make that employs large irregular finger joints will become a source for a higher quality how-to just in case it can help someone. In the meantime, here are a few pics and a verbal explanation that I hope will answer some more immediate inquiries ;-)
First let me point you to a very talented G&G enthusiast, David O. Wade. His method is nothing like mine but is shown here and I intend to try it sometime (I know Rennie already has).
I use a tablesaw, dado stack, sled and a sacrificial fence in my method. The sacrificial fence acts as a backer for a clean exit wound. I set the dado stack generally narrower than the cut I plan to make but, at the final height. This approach can be adjusted to suit your saw’s power, dado stack and material.
(Don't let the two cuts in the sac-fence throw you. I was experimenting).
I take the time to clamp the stock to the sled’s fence (and the sac-fence) for each pass. This is a bit bothersome but, results in very clean results when making multiple passes to achieve final width. I start with the cut that I want in the left-most part of the material.
I use a stop block and the clamp to stabilize the piece I am cutting. The stop block becomes my unchanging reference surface. I then add setup blocks (commercial or shop made) to provide the change in position from the stop block by known and repeatable increments.
Clamp, cut, unclamp, add setup block, repeat . . . That’s about it and perhaps a full set of photos in a later thread will clarify anything I have missed.
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