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Very Little Drama......

glenn bradley said:
I just realized we have missed a golden opportunity here . . . Go back in time to before the boss knew about the cartridge firing . . . now, repeat after me:

"Gosh honey, I sure am glad I spent all that money getting the SawStop here. If not for that safety feature I would have just cut my thumb off. Boy, are we lucky we valued my safety so much that we were prepared."
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Yeah, after I admitted that I'm such a bonehead to stick my thumb in the saw.....? No thanks :D

She did say that she is impressed at how well it did work, so there is that :thumb:
 
Hey Stu have you done the packing tape trick on the brakes to minimize false triggers? When I say false triggers I mean a piece of conductive material that's large enough to bridge the gap between the blade and the brake and trigger it needlessly. The tape would act as an insulator to prevent that and could have made a difference in this situation.:wave:
 
I'd not heard of that, and you know what, that could have been what happened, if I cut a brad and the cut piece touched the blade and the brake at the same time, yeah, that would fire the system.

I wonder about the safety of doing that, really I'd rather replace a cartridge here and there than cut my finger off by some how defeating the safety device :huh:

Going to have to google that one...... :rolleyes: :D
 
I guess I'll be getting out the packing tape :D

A normal size staple isn't supposed to trigger it although those big corrugated cardboard box staples supposedly will. The catch is that if the staple wraps around the tooth then makes contact with the aluminum brake, it will trip it. SawStop support recommends (if this is your concern) to either increase the distance to the blade with the brake clearance adjustment (which lengthens the stop time so you could get a worse injury) or to put a strip or two of packing tape on the brake surface that faces the blade. The idea being that the staple won't complete the electrical circuit to the brake and trip; the tape doesn't affect the trigger or brake time. I put the packing tape on mine.
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I'll be pulling mine out and putting some packing tape on it, as well as on the riving knife.

Great tip Alan thanks!
 
Stu,

Glad everything (except your wallet) is OK. Have you reported this to Saw Stop? They might value the information.

Even though it did not need to prevent an injury; the thing worked. You got my brain wondering about how much my thumb is worth. You seem very pleased with your saw. What model is it?

Thanks for the info in advance.

Enjoy,

Jim
 
Jim C Bradley said:
Stu,

Glad everything (except your wallet) is OK. Have you reported this to Saw Stop? They might value the information.

Even though it did not need to prevent an injury; the thing worked. You got my brain wondering about how much my thumb is worth. You seem very pleased with your saw. What model is it?

Thanks for the info in advance.

Enjoy,

Jim
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Thanks Jim

I really REALLY like this saw, it is the Industrial Cabinet Saw 3Hp, the full Monty, before they came out with the lower priced "Professional" grade of saw. The only thing I can gripe about is the 4" DC hose hook up, it really should be 6", but I'm sure I'm in the minority there, the table top DC is not so good, but they have rectified that with the new blade guard, DC pickup.

I plan on modifying my workshop...... AGAIN.... :rolleyes: and I will be changing around where the saw sits, it's orientation and making a seperate workbench, this should allow me to run a 6" hose right to the back of the saw, now I have about 6' of 4" hose then the 6" hose, so I know I have a lot of air movement loss there.

I've worked on some good saws, not a lot, but honestly I cannot imagine a cabinet saw that is better than this one, I know there are a lot of saw that are as good, but better, that would be a tough argument to make, IMHO. I'm sure that the "euro-slider" type of saws are better in many ways, but they are quite a price point higher and boy do they take up the space :eek:

With the added safety, or "Idiot Protection System" on the saw, for me.... let me say that again.... "FOR ME" I think I made the right choice, YMMV :D
 
Stuart Ablett said:
I plan on modifying my workshop...... AGAIN.... :rolleyes: and I will be changing around where the saw sits, it's orientation and making a seperate workbench,
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:huh::huh:

I'm having a hard time envisioning how you could possibly have room enough in the dungeon to have TWO separate stations in the middle, and yet that is what I am seeing from your words. :dunno:

I've banged my head on my own (compact/narrow) shop layout, both in sketchup and in sitting down there and dreaming. But I usually come back to the conclusion that the way I have it now is probably the best compromise. (or at least the lowest amount of pain.)


Time to ... :lurk::lurk::lurk:
 
Basically I'll cut the rails of my TS down quite a bit, and turn the saw 90 degrees, getting rid of the "Back bench, that, all in all failed :eek:

Then I'll make a small separate workbench that will be about 3 feet behind the tablesaw, but at the same height so I can use it as an outfeed table.

Now the table saw and back bench combo dominate the workshop, I've got no room to work.

When I get closer to that, I'll put up some sketch up drawings :D
 
YouTube.com has a video showing the person who invented it actually putting his finger in the blade with it running bright light and cameras everywhere, bet he won't do that again.
 
Bill McQueen said:
YouTube.com has a video showing the person who invented it actually putting his finger in the blade with it running bright light and cameras everywhere, bet he won't do that again.
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Yes but did you notice he also soaked his hand in the cooler water before doing it to increase the conductivity of his skin. Also, if you look closely he has the hands of a pencil pusher not the calluses of someone who would work with that tool every day. Hence very little resistance to electrical current.

Try this.
Obviously with the saw off but the power on so the computer is monitoring the blade. Touch a carbide tooth or the side of the blade with your dry callused hand and watch the red light on the front. See how much pressure you need to exert against the blade before it starts flashing.

We had one at the shop I used to work at, and don't get me wrong, it wouldnt cut your finger off but you would probably need a few stitches. Unlike him, in his video where it didnt do so much as give him a bit of an abrasion burn. And he touched the blade where you or I would not have our hands. We would be feeding into the blade.
The vid was rigged a bit.... but still cool to watch
 
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